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How long before the breaker trips?,does the a/c work ok,gas heat or heat pump?,electric strip heat on auxiliary heat,if these are shorted they will trip a breaker,if the breaker trips instantly you have a dead short in the system,if it runs for a while it may be a weak breaker,you may have a bad compressor if it trips fast or a shorted out heat strip,need more info!
There should be an overload protection device in series with the low voltage wiring(t-stat wiring) Is it resting on the heat strip or too close to it? It is a saftey device to shut off the heat strips if the fan quits or a fire in the heat strip section. check that or by pass it, if it stays running then ur thermal protector is bad, couple bucks at the parts house.
You have an electrical short, it some time forms at the heat strip after years of use the small wires break and cause a short. You need to replace the heat strip, and or it might be a bad breaker. There is really need no other reason for the short.
Hi, sounds like you could have a couple of problems. If the breaker is tripping when the strips are calling, they are drawing more amps then they should. The data plate on the unit will tell you the Amperage rating of the heat strip package that is installed and should match that of the breaker. Since the breaker was replaced I would recheck how tight the wiring is at the breaker as they will lossen up do the the heat they are pulling. Make sure they are tight both at the breaker and at the strips, just turn the breaker off and check this. Also, the strips should energize when the thermostat needs them to help out the heating cycle. It is good you can manually turn them on, but you shouldn't have to. I can not guide you through the process of checking T-stat operation as I would need to be on site to see how they wired it at the unit and stat.If it has always worked this way then this is most likely the way the installer wired it. If not, you will need to have the stat checked out. I would consentrate on solving the breaker problem. Just look at the data plate for the strips amperage and see if it matches the breaker amps. Tighten these connections and I bet this will solve the big problem. If you had a clamp around amp probe and with some help from me I could guide you on how to do an amp check to see if its the strips, wiring, or breaker by doing a amperage check. Tighten up all the connections and keep me posted for more help. I will be here to help you solve this. Good Luck,Shastalaker7
I would say this is around 75 amps of draw at max for both the compressor and heat units. . Therefore--at least 90 amp breaker, and probably 100 amps for good measure, and at least #4 or #2 wire to the unit.
The fuse is a 110 volt breaker in your service panel. If your heat comes from the heat strip it is inside of the ac in front of the evaporator. If it is a heat pump thats the the compressor. To create heat the compressor runs in reverse. There is a directional relay operated by the circuit board and thermostat to tell the ac what you are calling for, heat or ac. The heat strip is connected to the circuit board and is also operated on 110 volts. You have one of three problems. Breaker tripped, bad heat strip, bad circuit board. Possibilities, find the heat strip cable and unplug and plug it back in a few times,maybe lost connection. That happens at times because of the warm and cold elimates. The heat strip can be tested by takeing it out and bench testing it with 110 power. circuit board can be checked by use of a volt meter, turn the ac to heat and check the pins where the heat strip plugs in. To chech the heat pump you must go up top, remove ac cover and with an amp clamp find the wires going to the compressor and put the amp clamp on one wire only. Amps should be no more than 7 amps. If it is the compressor is shot. If there is no reading then the compressor is not running. Now you may have a bad capacitor which is up top under a sheet metal cover. They also can be tested with a VOM. You will find 2 or 3 capacitors depending on model. Run and start. Capacitors typically are charged with 370 to 600 Volts. They will knock off the top of your camper. BE AWARE OF THE FACT YOU ARE DEALING WITH 110 VOLTS. IF YOU ARE NOT FAMILIAR OR COMFORTABLE GET SOME QUALIFIED HELP. GOOD LUCK
DO YOU MEAN FEED IN OR FEEDING HEATING ELEMENT . I ASSUME YOU MEAN TO FEED FROM PANEL THE ANSWER IS YOU MUST RUN 2 CIRCUITS OF 3-cond #6 copper to unit connect the feeds to one breaker and the other circuit to the other breaker the neutrals connect to lug provided or purchase them and frame gnd to case , i would not recommend anything except copper as most mfg do not rec aluminum because on the heating and cooling of the unit and conductors
almost has to be the electric heat strip coils. they usually come on in stages. when the damaged strip comes on it kicks breaker. turn off all power, check with a meter , gently remove strips and inspect for broken or shorted coils. usually best to buy a new heat strip module. they are usually held in place as a module with 4 screws and a snap together wire connector .good luck. i have had some success if the wires are broken and not to brittle by bending a minute loop in the end of each wire and reconnect with the tiniest screw and washer and nut you can find, i'm talking real tiny. about the size of a bb if you can find em , or you can remove the damaged strip wire entirely to get some heat from remaining.