THIS HEATER (3E369D) IS POSSESSED. OVER THE PAST SEVERAL YEARS IT HAS CONSUMED MANY TRANSFORMERS. SOMETIMES IT WOULD USE 2 PER SEASON(2MONTHS), SOMETIMES IT WOULD LAST 2 DAYS. ONE ACTUALLY LASTED 2 YEARS. NEED SOME INFO ON WHAT THE MOST LIKELY COMPONENT WOULD BE AT FAULT OR IF THIS IS A COMMON PROBLEM AND WHAT IS THE FIX?
You obviously have an intermittent low voltage short. I would visually inspect all low voltage wiring to try to locate the problem. Pay good attention to the limit circuit, I have seen wires melted to the inducer housing before causing this problem. also, install a 3A fuse inline till you find the problem to save on transformers.
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
If you have had to replace the transformer, then you probably have a relay that is pulling to much power and/or the thermostat wire may have to be replaced. Most transformer on controls are 40 watt transformers and at 26 volt it should pull less than 1.6 amps. P=IxE Take a clamp on amp meter to the red wire coming from the transformer on the 24 volt side and measure the current. If greater than 1.6 amps the transformer will start overheating because it is producing more power than it is rated. If this is the condition, then before the control fuse blows if it has one check the amp draw on the various relay coils to see if they are the cause of the excess current draw. Each control coil typically draws 6 watts and for 26 volt control power means the amp draw should be about .2 amps. If you find one more than .2 amp you have found your problem. Coil to check is your main contactor for the condensing unit, reversing valve coil if you have a heat pump, sequencers for emergency heat strips, and fan relay in the air handler for a few. Your schematic should list all possible relay coils. Keep checking until you find the coil.
You could also have a control wire that has its insulation worn down to the conductor, so you may have to check the control circuit for open grounds.
If after finding the coil or open ground, the next thing you need to check is the thermostat wire. Old thermostat wire sometimes have the insulation become brittle and cracked or chewn on by pets or rodents. If you have an coil that is drawing excess amps, the entire thermostat wire can turn into a long heater and can cause the thermostat wire to degrade until the wire short out. I have seen several thermostat wires that have been overheated due to bad coils and the excess heat have causes the thermostat wire outer cover to shrink just like shrink tite and is a dead giveaway that thermostat wire needs replaced.
I know that this is a lot to check, but I have had to troubleshoot the control wiring on a lot of units and now you have the condensed knowledge of my experience on this matter.
Hope this helps
check that power is getting to the transformer, if so test the transformer for continuity. if it is good look for a short in the high voltage(spark plug) wire, and that one side of the secondary is connected firmly to the chassis of the heater. if no power to the transformer then trace the wiring to find the defect.
Hello, yes if you have no voltage on the secondary side of the transformer must be replaced, also, you can turn off power to tje unit and set your meter to read continuity, if no continuity then the transformer must be replaced.
Install another transformer and disconnect all the blower wires going to the circuit board, Turn the breaker on and if the transformer blows than the board is bad, if it does not blow than the blower motor is bad.
Does it light? If it does it could be the electric eye that sees the flame and keeps the unit running. It is either dirty or bad. remove the eye and clean it. It pulls straight out and has two prongs on it. Does not matter how it goes back in. It is just a switch. Replace and try again. If it still does not light replace the eye.
If you cleaned the eye and or replaced it and it still does not work there are a few more things to check...
Not gtting enough fuel. Check the filter. Usually a small in line filter.
It also could be the transformer is getting weak. The transformer produces 10,000 volts between the two electrodes that keeps the heater running. I would only change the transformer if everything else checks out.
The electrodes may also need adjusted.
The nozzle also may not be atomizing the fuel properly to keep the unit running. I recommend changing it at least once a year depending on the use.
There are some good video on YouTube that will give you some great troubleshooting ideas.
Hopefully there is a wiring diagram glued to one of the panels to verify but on the transformer you will have 2, 110 volt wires. One is the power coming in (usually black wire) and the other is a common (white wire) and will be connected to other common leads. On the low voltage side of the transformer one wire will go to the thermostat then from the thermostat to the gas valve. The other side will connect to the gas valve. When the thermostat calls for heat it completes the circuit from transformer to gas valve back to transformer.
I have searched high and low for a schematic and that model number doesn't even come up anymore? I have worked on bryant units for years . I can tell you by the 036 , it is a 3 ton unit. as far as replacing the transformer, you may not need a diagram. If you know what the voltage is coming into the unit, lets say208/230 and look to see what your control voltage is by looking at the voltage rating on one of the parts in the system, I would say 24volts, your chances are good you can install the transformer. A new 208/230voltx24volt trans, comes with all of the wiring laied out for you. Find the 2 high voltage Line wires coming in and tie to the high side of the transformer, and the 2 wires labeled for 24 volts to the load side, and your all set.Keep in mind that some of these universial transformers come with several colored wires for different voltages, so be sure to look at the transformer diagram and it will tell you what colors to tie together for the voltage you need. You should be able to pick up where you're friend left off, just look for the high volts in for one side and low volts out for the control side.Be sure to have a meter on hand to check the voltage. Just take your time, you can do this.
Ps It wouldn't hurt to add a 5 amp auto fuse to one of the wires on the low voltage side of the transformer, in case you miss wire it, and it will blow the fuse and save the new transformer.All you need is 2 female spade connectors and a 5 amp fuse. Good Luck, Sincerely, shastalaker7
If you are where it's warm and you are using air conditioning, have the technician check the coil in the relay in the outdoor unit. I replaced 2 transformers before I figured out the coil was shorted out and drawing too much current.
If this is an electric resistance heater then there is no power supply or transformer. I had a baseboard heater that would hum loudly and I found there's a wire that runs along the bottom to connect the far end of the heat element to the electrical wiring at the supply end. This wire becomes magnetized from the current flowing through it and vibrates in the channel it runs through. I was able to open this channel and squirt a bit of silicone caulk in to keep the wire from vibrating and the hum is gone.