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I did some work recently on a free-standing electric range.
The broiler element was heating up just a little. It was not getting red hot.
The range was practically new.
I discovered the crimp-on spade terminals to the broiler element had lost their springiness and were not making good contact with the element terminals. The ends of the wires going to the broiler element also showed signs of excess heating due to resistive contacts.
I bought a pack of new, high temperature crimp terminals at the appliance parts store, stripped the wires, and crimped the terminals on.
The original crimp terminals were right-angle. The new crimp terminals are straight. I didn't have a specialized tool for right-angle crimps. The straight crimps worked fine.
Just make sure there's plenty of clearance between the rear cover and the wires coming off the crimps to the Calrod.
Broil element now works great.
By the way, other ranges I've worked on use screw-on terminals instead of press-fit spade terminals. Not sure if press-fit spade terminals hold up after many years of service.
Maybe if an emergency repair needs to be done, could try drilling a hole carefully through the assembled spade terminal and putting in a 4-40 screw to recover the contact without having to buy replacement terminals.
Unplug the range from the wall first. Just raise the cook top and the elements are attached to the bottom of it, probably by four screws. Note how the wires are plugged in then unplug them, unscrew the element that don't work, screw the new one in plug the wires back and put the cook top back down. The wires should have blade connectors to easily unplug and replug.
there is a chance that one of the wires has burnt to the baking element. you will need to pull the unit out unplug it and remove the back panel. and check the wiring if it is burnt you can replace the burnt part so long as there is not to much destroyed you may have to add a piece of new wire.
you can use regular but connectors and spade connectors to replace the bad parts.
Just had same problem, requires a short nosed Philip's cross cut screwdriver. I couldn't get them to turn either when using a cross cut with any length of blade beyond the actual cross cut part.The element screw heads are very shallow. Hope this helps,.
It’s basically as simple as: Turn off the gas supply to the range. Turning off the mains power to the range. Remove the back panel behind the grill. Remove the 2 power connectors to the grill element. Remove the earthing wire to the element screw terminal. Unscrew the grill element securing screws(s) - there will be 1 or 2 depending on the element fitted to your range. Refit the new element (make sure it has the same mounting screw holes as the one you want to remove) then secure it. Reconnect the earthing wire to the element screw post. Make sure that neither of the element tags touch the chassis - check with a continuity tester of ohm meter and adjust if required. Reconnect the power cables to the element. Reconnect the power and check that the element works correctly. Disconnect the mains power again and replace the rear panel(s). Reconnect the mains power and recheck that the grill functions correctly. Turn on the gas supply.
It's easier to eliminate the element.You can do this two ways;first thing,remove power from unit.Unplug it and you know for sure power is off.Inside the oven you can get to the wiring on element by removing the two screws on the back wall that holds the bracket to the wall.(this works for both elements)Pull the element out and you will see the wires(2).They will be either screwed on or connected with spade clips which pull on/off.Remove at least one wire and use your meter,set on ohms, put a meter lead on each element connector,you should read continuity.If you don't the element is bad,replace it.Give the elements a good visual inspection first,some times you can see where the element burnt out.The other way to get to the wiring by pulling the back panel off the stove.Hope this helps. Gregg
Open the door and look for a slim, plate in the op right corner of the trim that the door would touch, if it were closed. It should be held on with 2 screws and have the model and serial numbers along with voltage. The element can be removed with a socket wrench (1/4 size), and costs about $45 delivered from pcappliancerepair.com . You'll need to unscrew the screws on the inside, back wall and then pull the element out about 2 inches, so that you can unscrew the connectors.
How easy is it to fit a new grill element. The element on the left hand side of the grill is not working so I need to replace this. I'm just wondering if this is easy to do myself or do I need an electrician?