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Assuming you have power to the cooker, its easy to change out the element (make sure when you are doing the job that you dont touch it with your skin due to oils on hands decreasing the new elements life). Firstly isolate the power to your cooker assuming its a built in unit have a look at how it is secured (is there 2 screws holding the unit at the back? if so all you need to do is remove the screws and the holding bar at the middle (again its either held on with screws or just clicks in to place) and gently pull the broken element out, take a photo or write down the sequence from left to right of the colours of the spade connectors, then remove the connections and simply install the new for old making sure you remember the sequence of the wiring. If you do not see any screws holding the element at the back you need to open the oven door and remove the four screws holding the unit to the frame and pull it out on to the floor. Then you remove the back panel and you will see 2 screws holding the element in place with the wiring exposed (spade connections/take photo) pop off the connections remove the screws and exchange the damaged element over, taking care to rewire like for like, put the back panel on push the unit in and fix it back in place with the four screws. Switch on and enjoy. If you had the cookers id i could have given you a link to get a new element (cost20-30 pounds). Just do a google search the item number should be seen when you open the door.
With 4 terminals, it sounds like a double grill element. But it could also be a single grill element with a second oven element. If the spade connecters are loose they need to be tightened first. Get a pair of pliers and gently squeeze the terminals until the gap reduces so when it slides on it will be tight. Do you know what wires go where? If so reconnect them. If you don't do the following; As you look at the element terminals they should run horizontally. Look at the element inside the grill compartment. From left to right, the no. 1 and no. 4 terminals should be the same element and the no. 2 and no. 3 terminals should be the other element. If this is correct put the 2 neutral wires, in any order, on terminals 1 and 2 and the active terminals on 3 and 4. This should work. You just have to check the correct element comes on when you operate the grill/oven controls.
If you mean the fan element then take all the racks out of oven and at the back is a panel with 4 screws remove may need a tap with hammer and screwdriver to shock rust etc. then undo screws on element maybe 3 screws pull gently forward(electric off).Try to pull the spade connectors off without losing them into back of oven if you lose them then you will have to take out oven and remove back plate. refit new element.If it was the grill element just follow above and find behind back plate.Hope I helped.
1) Isolate the unit by turning the power off at the main switch.
2) Remove appliance from housing unit.
a) When handling the appliance care should be taken to ensure the outer frame trim is not damaged.
b) The appliance is secured into the housing unit by 2 screws through the top corners of the front frame, open the doors and unscrew the 2 corner screws.
c) Grasp the bottom of the frame, pull forward and out onto a suitable surface.
3) Unscrew the top and rear panel securing screws and lift the panels clear.
4) From the rear of the appliance, pull off the 4 (top) grill element leads and the earth lead.
5) From inside the oven unscrew the 2 screws from the grill mounting plate.
The above is from the Handbook. I assume from point 5 the element is then free to be removed. reverse the procedure to fit the new element.
If you want a copy of the Handbook, then I will need an email address for you.
You need to check the heating element for continuity and the thermistor for continuity. Use an ohmmeter or multimeter to check.The element should not be any reading over 24 ohms for a 220-250V supply and not over 12 ohms for a 110Vac supply. A good tip is to take digital photos of the job before starting on removing and testing wiring etc so that you can refer back to it if you have to replace any items or forget which wires attach to any particular terminal etc. To test and replace the element:
Turning off the mains power to the oven.
Remove the lower back panel. Fan assisted ovens will have a coiled 2 or 3 turn element around the outside of the fan.
Remove the 2 power connectors to the grill element if one is fitted.
Check the element resistance reading on the main oven heating element and not the grill element.
The thermistor or fusible link is located on top of the oven cavity if fitted and has two wires attached to it - most likely to be red and black or both white wires.
Remove the earthing wire to the main oven heating element screw terminal.
Unscrew the grill element securing screws(s) - there will be 1 or 2 depending on the element fitted to your oven. Do this from inside the oven cavity itself.
Refit the new element (make sure it has the same mounting screw holes as the one you want to remove) then secure it.
Reconnect the earthing wire to the element screw post.
Make sure that neither of the element tags touch the chassis - check with a continuity tester of ohm meter and adjust if required.
Reconnect the power cables to the main oven heating element.
Reconnect the power cables to the grill element if one is fitted.
Reconnect the power and check that the element works correctly.
Disconnect the mains power again and replace the rear panel(s).
Reconnect the mains power and recheck that the oven, and if appropriate the grill, functions correctly.
It’s basically as simple as: Turn off the gas supply to the range. Turning off the mains power to the range. Remove the back panel behind the grill. Remove the 2 power connectors to the grill element. Remove the earthing wire to the element screw terminal. Unscrew the grill element securing screws(s) - there will be 1 or 2 depending on the element fitted to your range. Refit the new element (make sure it has the same mounting screw holes as the one you want to remove) then secure it. Reconnect the earthing wire to the element screw post. Make sure that neither of the element tags touch the chassis - check with a continuity tester of ohm meter and adjust if required. Reconnect the power cables to the element. Reconnect the power and check that the element works correctly. Disconnect the mains power again and replace the rear panel(s). Reconnect the mains power and recheck that the grill functions correctly. Turn on the gas supply.
This is an easy fix. Go to your local Lowe's or Home Depot and get yourself a new Ignitor Button
they are standard. Just pop the old one out and install the new one placing the 2 wires on the spade connectors where the old one was, and your done! Takes less than 30 minutes to change! Happy Grilling! Thank you for using FixYa!
I have the same smoker with the same problem. I checked the heat element with an ohm meter, it was good so just cleaned the burnt residue from the male spade connectors attached to the element with a dremel tool. Slipped two new female spade connectors over the ones on the element and soldered them with the wires attached with a 1/16' silver bearing electronics solder. Now the connections cannot become loose and burn up again. I tested everything out and then wrapped the exposed connectores with non conductive fiberglass electrical tape and covered everything with expanding foam that comes in a spray can. Easy fix for me after reading all the posts from you guys here. Good luck and go for it! All I had to buy was the foam insulation.
Corpus Christi TX
The lamp is located under the stainless top cover of the microwave which unscrews from the back and sides, the bottom corners in the back have special torx screws which are meant to thwart you from removing them but a pair of locking pliers does the trick. Then under the cover on the top of the microwave there's a black elliptical shaped base with only 1 screw holding it down, that is the lamp. Pull the female spade connectors from the lamp, unscrew it and take it out. Oster has about the worst customer service around so i have not verified that they will sell a replacement lamp but if you can find a 20W 120V replacement with spade connectors that will do.