I have a 800 watt gm-710m pioneer and itook out my amp and box for a few months then put it back in never removing any cables. when i hooked up th amp i got no power from he amp. the power source is good because i get a spark from the power wire. the blue light on the top of the amp does not light up. very confused. thanks for your time
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the alpines will take every drop of power from that pioneer and smile... it will sound quite good,and if you ever want to you can actually put about 2x that much power to them 1 of those amps per 6x9 would rock
Sounds to me like one of your positive cables keeps hitting metal somehow and causeing the fuse to blow. Ive had it happen to me when i had one of those amp splitter boxes that i didnt have mounted down properly and it slid into the metal on a seat post and same thing happened.
Hiya, first check by triggering or powering the amp manually by putting a voltage at the trigger. Just use a jumper from power. If the amp comes on then check the feed from head unit. Loose wire, inline fuse near the head etc.
If it still doesn't come on the hate to say its gonna have to go in for repair. Could be anything inside from protection, blown track etc.
it could be the amp it could be the way you've installed and if you have a sub in an enclosure the wires could be touching the postive and negetive speaker wires what ever the problem is the amp is in protection mode i hope this helps hope its not the amp i hope its just the wiring
Usually an 800 watt peak sub would be a 400 watt rms. Hmmmm. Anyway, just bridge the amp (1x 380) nd keep the gain up enough to stay clean. Watch the sub and turn up gain until it starts to distort, then back it down a hair. Do this with the CD players volume up 2/3 to 3/4 volume with the BASS and treble at zero (bass better at minus 4 or so if you are a bass head! Hope thishelps.
you are going to need an amp that can supply the right amount of rms power to make it sound good. these sony subs are rated for 380 watts rms. so in order to find an amp that will supply two, you must multiply that figure by two. so you will need an amp that can supply around 500 to 750 watts continuously (or rms). also you are going to want an amp that is either class d or class ab rated. these amps are built to push subwoofers exclusively and will give you the best efficiency and sound out of your subs. you will also want to get an amplifier is a monoblock amp, and not a stereo amplifier. make sure the amp can put out that rms rating at 2 ohms as two 4 ohm speakers equal 2 ohms wired in parallel. i have a kenwood kac9152d that puts out about 2000 watts max at 2 or 1 ohms (900 watts rms) that i used with my two sony xplod 10's for about 2 years. it was kick ***! now i dont know if you need that much power but they will handle it as long as you dont push them too hard for long periods of time, otherwise you might end up blowing them up! (depending on the box size that is, and the quality of it as well...)
i have years of car audio installation experience and can help with setting up and wiring any mobile entertainment system you can imagine. may i ask what kind of music you listen to and what kind of box do you have for these subwoofers?
you Amp is overloading and going into protection mode. if it cuts out with the wire u were using first then their would be no need to upgrade the size of ur wire cause that would only be, doubling or trippling the power u are getting threw those wire now. bottom line the 2 subs u are using are obviously to much for the amp.
try dropping the OHM's by connection the subs together and runnig just a single positive and negative to the amp! or just get a better amp
If you are using a GM-7200 amp, it should sound great. Both the amp and the subs are rated at 800 watts so be careful not to overload the bass by turning them on full power. It is good practice to have a slightly lower watt amp than the subwoofers. If you can power your rear speakers from the amp, that would take away some power to prevent the subs from overloading. Overall, you should get a nice THUMP!!
This may have a different type of triggered turn on wire. On some of the older Pioneer amps (and maybe some new ones) the trigger wire would SUPPLY B+ TO THE RADIO and when the radio was switched on the amp would sense a current draw on that wire and would then switch on. Unlike most common amps which sense the presence of B+ on the trigger wire supplied by the radio and then turn on. Look in your owners manual to see kind of turn on system you have. If you don't have an owners manual then perhaps you can download one from Pioneer support.