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Bosch fridge freezer KGN34X00GB panel removal

Trying to fix a problem with fridge being warm. Freezer ok
Top freezer drawer is pushing into panel that covers heat exchanger /cooling unit. This panel seems to have dropped.
Unable to remove panel to examine cause - two screws at front but panel seems rigid. Any advice on how to access or rmeove this panel?

Posted by on

  • jwdc Dec 01, 2008

    Tried defrosting - no better.

    Panel stil seems rigidly fixed.

    Bosch engineer called in and advised that there were lots of problems with this model. Surprising when it was a Which best buy a couple of years ago. He was unable fix it. Hoping to get a new fridge/freezer as a fix - waiting to hear from Bosch.

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4 Suggested Answers

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SOURCE: Admiral Side by Side Fridge is warm at top, cold at bottom

CHECK TO SEE IF THE EVAPORATOR FAN MOTOR IS RUNNING, ITS IN THE BACK OF THE FREEZER SIDE, MOTOR MAY BE BAD OR SOMETHING COULD BE BLOCKING IT...

Posted on Feb 07, 2008

  • 1462 Answers

SOURCE: FRIDGE NOT VERY COLD - ABOUT 15 DEG C, FREEZER OK

relies on air flow between fridge and freezer but is regulated.
fault is probably ice build up on top of evaporator in freezer. remove back panel inside freezer and check. also check the air ducts are not iced up

Posted on Nov 20, 2008

  • 31 Answers

SOURCE: KENMORE MODEL 596 BOTTOM FREEZER, FRIDGE NOT COOLING

The freezer will stay cold because a small amount of cold air will be forced through the frost but that will not be enough to make it up to the refrigerator portion. You can defrost the unit by removing the metal panel and allowing the frost to melt. Careful use of a hairdryer can speed up this process. This will likely be a temporary fix. The root cause of excessive frost can be caused by a bad door seal or a defective defrost circuit.

First check that the door seal is good by closing the door on a dollar bill at several points around the door, both on the freezer and refidgerator door. If you can pull the bill out with no resistance, the door is not making a good seal. Inspect the seal and make sure there isn't anything stopping the door from closing such as food, or a shelf not pushed in all the way.

If the door seal is good, the defrost system is likely defective. The defrost system has three main parts, the defrost heater, thermostat, and timer. None of these parts are particularly expensive, or difficult to replace you feel comfortable with repairing it yourself. If you can troubleshoot this by manually starting the defrost cycle. Let me know if you would like this procedure.

Posted on Jan 07, 2009

Richie_asg1
  • 1036 Answers

SOURCE: bosch fridge freezer - ice build up and water leak from freezer

Hi,
This is most likely a blocked drain pipe - blocked with ice that is.

Remove all the drawers in the freezer - and stack them up.
With the unit switched off and unplugged, undo the fixings on the rear pannel in the freezer (behind the drawers)
Remove it to see the evaporator coils etc.
At the base there should be a channel - and a hole leading to the drain pipe. This needs unblocking wih a thin flexible cable. -net curtain support wire is ideal, and cheap. or use a short length of insulated cable.
Check it comes out at the rear of the unit onto the evaporator container - situated on top ofthe compressor.
Replace everything and switch on.

Posted on Sep 08, 2009

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If the ice/frost buildup is fairly thick and only on the back freezer panel then you have a defrost problem. Most likely the defrost thermostat is bad. It would be hard to explain how to test this in writing but there is a tech sheet underneath the fridge behind the grill on the r/f. It is in plastic which is stuck to the fridge. This tech sheet will tell you how to put it into diagnostic mode. First take the back panel of the freezer off (may need to get frost off first). Should be four 1/4" screws in each corner of the panel to remove. Will need to remove racks, door (should just lift off), and ice maker first. Remove vent in center of freezer panel by pushing up little tab in the center of the vent and using a screw driver to pop it loose on each side of the vent. Then remove thermistor cover on right hand side of panel. Remove (by pushing thru) ice maker plug. Once the panel is off put the fridge into defrost by the instructions on the tech sheet. If it goes into defrost (heater will get hot) then the main control board is bad. If not shut the doors to reset, defrost evaporator with a hair dryer and remove the defrost thermostat. It is a little metal round piece with two wires coming out of it and just clips onto the evaporator. Cut the two wires coming out of the thermostat, strip them back and splice them together. Now put it into defrost again. If the heater comes on then you know the thermostat is bad. Diagnostics mode can also test all functions i.e. condensor motor, compressor, evaporator fan, and thermistors. With all of that said, if it isn't a thick frost buildup the evaporator fan motor may be bad which is the most common repair on this model. It sits just behind the vent in the center of the freezer panel. Let me know what you find.

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Hi,
Here is a tip that will tell you where the water is coming from and how to fix it. The drain hole has froze shut and the water from the defrost will not drain out.

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http://www.fixya.com/support/r3780310-water_running_in_refrigerator_from

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Hi,
This is most likely a blocked drain pipe - blocked with ice that is.

Remove all the drawers in the freezer - and stack them up.
With the unit switched off and unplugged, undo the fixings on the rear pannel in the freezer (behind the drawers)
Remove it to see the evaporator coils etc.
At the base there should be a channel - and a hole leading to the drain pipe. This needs unblocking wih a thin flexible cable. -net curtain support wire is ideal, and cheap. or use a short length of insulated cable.
Check it comes out at the rear of the unit onto the evaporator container - situated on top ofthe compressor.
Replace everything and switch on.

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Hello.

The first thing you need to do is take out the bottom drawer in the freezer and look into the slots in the back panel. Make sure that you can see silver coils, and not a bunch of frost.

If this checks out ok, make sure that the coils underneath are clean and the fan is also turning (underneath the unit).
If all looks ok then make sure the fan in the freezer is running. (You may have to push the door switch if yours has one.) If the freezer fan isn’t blowing however, the freezer will be warm at the top and cool at the bottom, and you fresh food compartment will be warm.

Another thing to make sure is that the light it turning off when the door is closed. Again you would have to push on the door switch. I was amazed to learn when I first started this line of work, that even a little light bulb can make enough heat to cause a problem.
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fault is probably ice build up on top of evaporator in freezer. remove back panel inside freezer and check. also check the air ducts are not iced up

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