No power at all for c160

I read this as this: You replaced a blown fuse, the new fuse still looks good but the radio no longer works.

First test the fuse, if it checks out OK then something else has blown in the radio, I check the power supplies first, giving it power and seeing if everything there is still working as it should.

Check the output for short

Many models of UPS's will not power up if the internal batteries are no longer working to spec. There is no point in having a UPS if the batteries are dead!

Other types of common faults are a blown power fuse, or a defective controller board, or a defective switch. If the fuse is blown, it is best to investigate for the reason it blew before replacing it and thinking it is safe.

Jerry G.

Usually indicates bad powersupply. Try replacing.

There is usually a 125V, 20 AMP line fuse inside the microwave. Its usually mounted at the point where the power cord enters the back of the unit. Unfortunately, you will need to uninstall the oven (if this is an over the range model), UNPLUG it and remove the exterior case to access. The case comes off in various ways depending on manufacture and model. I found this illustration at pcappliancerepair.com based on the model number you listed this question under:

http://pcappliancerepair.com/model-display.php

The line fuse is listed as item 28 in the drawing. Keep in mind, there are also a couple of thermostats listed that may also cause no power problems if blown.

One is listed as item 29 (part number 8183703) under the same drawing. The other is listed under the "Airflow" section as item 5 (part number 8183697). The humdity sensor can also be a source of problems when it becomes old. If you managed to overheat the oven any time recently, you may want to check these thermostats and sensors to see if they are still good. They should read 0 ohms when measured out of the circuit.

If the line fuse is blown, you can usually purchase a box of fuses at a hardware store for just a little more than what the manufacturer charges for a single fuse. 125V, 20AMP Ceramic Slow Blow fuses are recommended. If you wish to order on line, use the part numbers to search by comparison as the model number you listed this question under may not be available at all the websites I have provided. The parts, however, ARE listed.

If you have any questions, or need additional assistance troubleshooting, please post back and let me know. I hope you find this information helpful.

NOTE: Make sure you take any resistance readings with the microwave UNPLUGGED and the component under test isolated (removed) from the circuit. These ovens can blow a fuse by simply sitting idle. This can occur from any power fluctuations, brown outs, voltage spikes, etc. Or, it could be the symptom of a component that may have failed. If you find the internal fuse blown and replace it, only to have it blow again, you have a more significant problem than a simple blown fuse.

Sounds like a fuse problem. Check your fuses. If you need help find the exact fuses for power windows, look in your owners manual. In many cases, they can be in the engine compartment or the drivers kick panel. If you cannot tell if a fuse is blown, use a volt meter set to check continuity. If the voltmeter reads 0 or .1, the fuse is fine, if it reads 1, the fuse is blown. Hope this helps

Replacing a fuse Locate your fuse. Most microwave fuses look like the one pictured to the left. They are usually an inch or two long. Each end is metallic and the center is either ceramic or glass.
To get to the fuse, remove the outer cabinet of the unit, which is usually held in place with a few screws. Once the outer cabinet is removed, follow the power cord into the unit. It will take you to the fuse holder, where the fuse sits. The fuse holder is located two or three inches into the unit, and may be attached to a power board.
Decide if your fuse is blown. A blown glass fuse will produce flash burn marks on nearby surfaces, or it will be completely black on the inside. The internal fuse wire (filament) will be melted and blackened. Ceramic fuses give no outward signs of having blown. To determine if a ceramic fuse is blown, test it with an ohmmeter. If the ohmmeter reads zero ohms, your fuse is fine. A reading of infinite ohms means your fuse is blown.
Replace the blown fuse. Pop it out of its holder and snap in a new one. You can squeeze the fuse clips together with your fingers in order to tighten their grip. Replace the unit's outer cabinet, plug it back in, and test to see if it is running properly. DO NOT run the microwave with nothing in it.
NOTE: Fuses do not usually blow on their own. A fuse may blow because of problems with the interlock switches or with high voltage circuitry. It is also possible, though rare, that a power surge will cause a fuse to blow.

Measure the voltage across the line. The outside unit normally runs on 220 Volts. Measuring each side of the line to ground will give 110 Volts. If your outside disconnect is of a fused type one fuse could be blown. If a fuse is blown on one side of the line you will read zero volts differential across the line.

Check the type of fuse used in the disconnect. Make sure the proper size time delay fuse is installed on both sides of the line at the disconnect.

Most likely the thermo fuse is blown.

You have to take the kettle apart and see the spec for the thermo fuse. You can get these at most any electronics parts supplier for appliances.

To change the thermo fuse you will need the proper crimp type connectors and the crimp tool. This is not able to be soldered. It runs too hot, and soldering in a circuit close to a heating element is not able to be used.

Before changing the thermo fuse, you can test it with an ohm meter. It should typicaly read about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms. The heating element resistance should typicaly read about 8 to 12 ohms.

If the heating element reads below 6 to 7 ohms on a well calibrated ohm meter, or above 15 ohms, it is defective.

If the thermo fuse is blown, the kettle may have been left running when boiled out and over heated, or there is a short in the heating element.

If you feel that you are not comfortable to do this type of repair, it would be best to give the kettle out to an appliance service centre to have it serviced.

When you change the thermo fuse, and if it blows again the heating element is probably damaged. It must be replaced if possible, or if worth the cost.

On the other hand, if the kettle is more than a few years old and you don't want to go to all this trouble, you may want to consider to simply get a new one.

Jerry G.

The rear panel nameplate will state the unit power requirements. Look for number of amps draw. Let's say you read "2 A". Now, depending on where in the circuit this fuse is, your fuse size will be no more than two amperes (sometimes slightly greater if slow-blow fuse spec'ed). So, if your fuse is located immediately near the line-cord entrance to circuit board, start with a 1.0A fuse. If that immediately blows, then increase to a 1.5A fuse. Repeat until 2 A fuse is reached. If still blowing, then there is a problem with the set, either power supply or tube.