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I can not install the Philips RG6 quad shield compression connectors onto the Philips RG6U cable. There does not appear to be enough of an opening in the connector to allow the dielectric to fit. I need to install 6 cables since the cable co. will not do it due to the unusuall construction of my house. I had no problem using the regular RG6 connectors on some older cables I had run in the basement workshop. I thought using all Philips cable, connectors, compression tools, etc. would work. HELP!!!!!!!! I'd like to get this finished over the Thanksgiving weekend starting Tu. night.

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First, I did not have a projection tv problem. I had a problem with RG6U cable. I solved the problem by having a cable guy sell me some compression ends. No one from FixYa ever contacted me, so I took matters into my own hands. I'm sure I would have heard back if I subscribed to your service.

Won't use you again!

Posted on Dec 01, 2008

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1 Answer

Installed antenna 100 feet from my old toshiba hd projection tv. I get ONE channel. Too far? Old tv? 2004

It should be fine. You could try an amplifier on the signal. Is the cable RG6 ?

Dec 27, 2015 | Toshiba Televison & Video

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My connection for the cable on the back of my tv is broken!

If you have RCA inputs for video and sound their will be a white and red which is audio and yellow is video. If you have a cable box that you use to change channels, this should have the RCA outputs for your audio and video. You will also have to set your tv to select that input to get the cable. Hope this helps

Apr 17, 2013 | Sony KP-53V85 53" Rear Projection...

1 Answer

The antenna/cable in threaded piece has come out of the back of the tv. How can I fix that. I tried to put it back but it won't stay. I think I need a new one.

These sets have what is known as a on board Tuner. This means that the Tuner is not replaceable without replacing the entire Board. The good news is that you can replace the Cable/RF connector as long as the shield it attached to is not broke or too bent. Most of the Cable/RF connectors used in these sets have PCB mount . You will have to remove the Signal Board and unsolder the center connection of the broken connector left on the Board. Remount the new
Connector and solder the center connection. You may need a collar nut to secure the Connector the the shield.
I hope this helps,

Nov 12, 2009 | RCA D52W20 52" Rear Projection HDTV-Ready...

1 Answer

I do not get complete picture ie picture continually breaks up (pixilates) as does sound, even sometimes no signal but only for a short time.

If it only happens while watching an incoming signal from the cable company and not a DVD playing,
I went through this too on a rear projection HD TV.
If you have any splitters on the line to the TV eliminate as many branches to other devices as possible. They cause a drop in signal strength which is the problem. Make sure the cable is RG6 others are too weak to carry a good signal.
After going through many splitters and taking other things off I got a better signal. But it came down to the cable companys box out by the street had corroded metal components and when they changed that, the problem cleared and was even able to add all devises back to my signal splitter.
If is happening on a satellite dish then check and clean or replace cable connectors.

Aug 02, 2009 | Televison & Video

1 Answer

How to replace lamp ballast 46hm84

Assuming you can get the part, here is the procedure to replace the lamp ballast:

1. Make sure TV is un-plugged and the lamp has cooled for at least one hour before continuing.

2. Place the TV on a flat surface with sufficient space to the rear to allow you to slide out the chassis.

3. Open and remove the lamp access door on the left-side of the TV (facing the front) by loosening the thumb screw. Behind the door you will find the lamp assembly which must be removed by loosening two screws (one on either side of the lamp base). Pull out lamp unit, careful not to touch the lamp or bump the unit. Set aside.

4. There are 13 screws that hold the lower-rear cover onto the cabinet. Use a 1/4 inch nut driver to remove these screws. Nine of them are along the top and bottom at the rear and another 4 on the left and right hand ends of the cabinet just to the rear of the front panel.

5. Next, note that the chassis is in two sections; left and right. The lamp ballast is part of the light engine assembly that is on the right chassis. You will save yourself much grief if you slide out both left and right chassis assemblies. There are 4 screws through the jack panel that hold the left-side chassis to the cabinet. Remove these screws. Also, there are two screws mounted vertically (one on either side) of the jack panel that hold the left-side chassis to the bottom of the cabinet. Remove these screws as well. Note that they are different from the other screws.

6. The right side of the chassis is held by 5 screws. First, remove the three screws that are holding the verticle metal brace and remove the brace. Note that there is a cable tie connected to this brace. Be careful not to cut or exert too much pressure on this cable tie or the cable running through it. Next, remove the remaining metal screws holding the right chassis.

7. At the top of the open cabinet just behind the metal brace that has need removed, you will see another metal screw that holds a light shield in place. This shield has several small wires that run through guides. Carefully remove these small wires from the guides remove the screw and gently remove the shield taking note how the shield is supported so you can re-install it again easily.

8. At the left side of the jack panel towards the front of the cabinet, you will notice some wire guides with wires routed through them. Carefully remove these wires from the guides so you can pull out the chassis without putting strain on the wires.

9. CAREFULLY, start to slide out both chassis sections, left and right. Be careful not to pull any wires. If you notice a wire that is becoming tight, stop and make sure you take the strain of off the wire before continuing. You will most likely not be able to fully remove both chassis. You will not have to in order to replace the ballast.

10. The ballast assembly is located in the right-rear portion of the light engine assembly. It is held on to the circuit board by four plastic posts and retaining clips, one on each corner. The projection lens is part of the light engine assembly and is exposed. DO NOT TOUCH the lens with your fingers or tools. Before you remove the ballast, you must remove a metal piece that covers the heat sink. There is one screw on each side of this cover. The one on the left is difficult to reach with your fingers so use a magnetic screwdriver if you have one. If not, use some kind of sticky substance on the point of the screw driver so the screw will lift up with it. Remove the metal cover. Next, remove the two screws that hold the brown lamp socket to it's base and carefully remove the lamp socket. Also, there is a small white cable connector on the right-rear section of the ballast that needs to be CAREFULLY removed. Do not pull by the wires; use a needle-nosed pliers to grasp the plug and gently wiggle if off the connector. Gently move the white plastic clips at each corner and lift off the ballast assembly.

11. When installing the replacement ballast, be careful to gently seat the ballast by exerting pressure only on the four corners where the posts are. In this way you won't crack the circuit board. Replace that small cable connector, the lamp socket (it's key-wayed so it cannot be installed wrong), and the metal cover over the heat sink.

12. Take you time and follow your steps in reverse order. The both sides of the chassis must be slid into the cabinet together to avoid too much tension on small wires. Notice that there is a verticle tab on the light engine chassis that must be aligned on the right side of a veticle guide that comes down from the top of the cabinet enclosure. If you do not have the tab on the right side, the chassis will not fully seat back into the cabinet. Replace the light shield, route the small wires through the guides and also those on the left side of the jack panel, replace all screws and braces.

13. Replace the lamp assembly and replace the lamp door and hand-tighten the thumb screw. The set should fire up. If it does not, the problem may be with the light engine in which case it will not be worth the expense to fix.

Good luck and take your time.

Jun 08, 2009 | Toshiba Televison & Video

3 Answers


the remote and buttons use one IC to control,
tuning, remote,
open your tv and check the common IC and change it okey

Jan 12, 2009 | Philips 50P8341 50" Rear Projection...

2 Answers

Broke the piece where the cable wire goes in...what's it called?

Unfortunately, that coax connector  is almost certainly crimped onto a cable inside.  You might want to pull off the back panel to see if that internal cable is screwed onto another jack on the chassis. If so, you can disconnect that end and substitute another cable, they come in several different lengths and are not critical. Any electronics store will have them.
If it isn't equipped with a connector inside, you will need to have someone unsolder the defective cable and install a new one.  

Dec 21, 2008 | Philips Magnavox 51MP392H Rear Projection...

5 Answers

I have a digital TV with an outside antenna and rotor.I rcv analog channels w/o any problem.I can rcv channel 19.1 on my TV and on my old TV with a converter box. I have gone to to get the...

the frequency catcher of the antenna may be weaker then receive the digital channels u can attach a network booster which will solve the problem.

Dec 04, 2008 | Televison & Video

1 Answer

Toshiba 52hmx84 shutting off

When the bulb on one of these Toshiba DLP units burns out, the unit will show a blinking green and a solid red, and restart itself 8 times, then show blinking green and red lights. A replacement bulb costs about $200 and is very easy to replace. If you replace the bulb and the symptoms continue, the problem is probably the ballast. The manual and Toshiba support will direct you to an authorized service center, but if you are ambitious and want to save the expense, here are instructions for replacing the ballast yourself. First, many thanks to those of you who have done this before me and posted elsewhere. There was a request for pics of the ballast board install, so here it is.


You will need:
1. A slightly long standard head Philips screwdriver.
2. A leatherman or small pair of pliers.
3. The Toshiba service manual. Refer to it often if you get lost. - download it here.
4. The ballast board (Toshiba Part Number: 23122468). I got mine from Conn's in Flordia here.
5. Some tape or a marker to label some of the cables so you don't forget what went where.
6. Patience. Lots of it. smile.gif

The Steps

1. UNPLUG THE TV! Put the TV somewhere so that you can easily get to the back of it. You'll need at least 3 ft of room behind the TV. REMOVE THE LAMP ASSEMBLY NOW.

2. Remove all of the screws on the lower part of the TV. Set the cover aside. It should look like this:


3. To get an idea of where we're going, as you look at the back of the TV, just behind the fan and lamp assembly is the ballast board, looks like this:


4. Next, remove the screws from the silver brace arm in the middle and the bronze screws that hold the light engine assembly. This brace is attached to the ribbon cable by a Zip tie; you do not have to cut the Zip tie if you don't want to. Refer to the service manual if the pic below doesn't show the screws clearly, but it will be obvious when you are looking at the "light engine sled".


5. Remove the bronze screw holding the plastic shield that angles down to the lamp. This screw is kind of hard to see just looking at the back of the TV, it is located up and above the ribbon cable attached to the back AV board.


6. Using a small pair of pliers, squeeze the plastic nipples in and push the cable hangers out of the plastic shield. Remove the shield carefully from the back of the TV and set aside.


7. Slowly and very carefully, remove the copper ribbon cable as shown. This copper ribbon cable was the hardest thing to put back in during reassembly, I kid you not. I hate that ribbon cable with all of my soul. Next, remove the yellow, blue, and red connectors as shown. If you forget where they went, the connectors are different lengths and only go to one and only one receptacle.


8. Slowly and carefully, pull out the light engine assembly. There are 2 yellow leads that power the lamp assembly that you can remove if needed. To remove them, slide the rubber footing off, and you will see a very small clip, push the clip back while pulling on the lead and it will come off. If you do take the leads off, be sure to label them with a marker or some tape. Mine were quite stubborn in letting go (I didn't see the clips under the rubber footing before this posted), so I left them on. If you do leave them on, be carefull of the stress on the cable going around the lens assembly. I removed the cables from the plastic do-hickey holding onto them and moved the yellow cables to the front of the lens assembly.


9. Next, slowly pull out the light engine sled and turn it so that you have access to the ballast assembly, like so:


10. Noticing how filthy your ballast board probably is smile.gif, remove the two screws holding the ballast board.


11. Now, remove the 2 connectors attached to the ballast board like so:


12. Next, gently push the plastic tabs holding down the ballast board to the light engine assembly and gently push up the ballast board to loosen it from the plastic tabs grip. There are two other tabs on the other side. Now you'll now be able to remove the ballast assembly entirely to install your new board.


13. Now, on the other side of the ballast assembly is the lamp connector. Remove the screws as shown.


14. Gently turn the lamp connector towards you to remove it; notice the orientation of the connector so you install it correctly when you put the new board in.


15. Now, install your new board and put everything back together in reverse order. This would also be a good time to take some compressed air and blow out all of the dust in there. Take your time during reassembly and be very, very, very carefull connecting everyting back together.

16. Be sure to put the back cover on, and re-install the lamp assembly before connecting your inputs and powering back on.

17. That's it! If you did everything carefully enough, you should be enjoying your Toshiba again and just saved about $350! Congrats!

Nov 22, 2008 | Toshiba 52HMX84 52" Rear Projection...

1 Answer

My cable connector (the thing that I screw my cable sord onto) broke off and I need to fix it

you have to open the tunner up and solder it back only conect the pin to the place it broke from and becareful of your solder and solder mounting to for ground in the same position

Oct 18, 2008 | Televison & Video

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