I'm concerned as to whether the electricity used to keep it running out weighs the cost of a new freezer. Also the lid doesn't make a good seal and black mould grows between the rubber seal and the top of the cabinet. The problem lies with the seal, but I can't find a replacement. The freezer was made by "Iceland" and has a capacity of approximately 220 litres.
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Re: chest freezer ices up quicker than it should
If the box has mold between the seal and liner the the seal isn't the main problem, the main problem is the liner is bad and by time you got both parts if you can it would cost more than to replace the freezer. Larry
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A noisy chest freezer can be more than aggravating, it can also be a sign that something may be wrong with the appliance. With a little investigation, you will be able to find the cause for the noise so that you can determine how to rectify it.
Self-defrosting If you chest freezer is a self-defrosting variety, you will find that it has a fan on one of the inside walls that enables this process to take place. Open the door and check whether this makes the sound worse; if this is the case, the problem is likely to lie with the fan. Ensure that it is not blocked by any food items or ice and is running properly. Clear away any items that are blocking it and tighten any loose fasteners. The motor that runs the fan can also cause a noise if it is old or defective and is struggling to continue running, if this is the case, the motor will need to be replaced.
Door Seal Examine the door seal of the chest freezer to ensure that it is intact and has no defects. If there is a problem with the seal, it can prevent the door from closing properly which will force the freezer to work harder as it will also be cooling the air around the freezer. Replace the door seal and ensure that the door is able to close properly to see if this reduces the noise.
Element The wire element that is either located on the rear or the base of your chest freezer. The element can often become noisy after getting covered in dust and debris. Rectify this by switching off the power supply before vacuuming the element. Carefully use a cloth to clean any other surrounding components that are affected by stubborn grime.
Ice Build Up Where your chest freezer is unable to regulate itself, you may find that it can suffer a buildup of ice. When the ice become sufficiently thick, it will stop the freezer from being effective and will force the motor to work harder in order for it to keep working. Prevent this problem by defrosting your freezer on a regular basis or whenever it is required.
Condenser Fan The condenser fan is likely to be located at the rear of the freezer and can become noisy if it is defective or covered in dirt. After switching off the power supply, use a cloth to clean the blades of the condenser fan if you find that the noise is coming from this component.
Compressor The compressor is the black box that you will find on the base or rear of your freezer and is where the normal noise of the running the freezer comes from. The pipes and wires necessary for the freezer to work stem from this box and can become noisy if there is a problem, which is more likely with an older appliance. A defective compressor cannot be repaired so it will need to be replaced.
The insulation between the inside and the outside of the freezer haas become water logged, This can be twmporarilly remedied by switching off the freezer and letting the insulation dry out for a few weeks, less in hot dry climates, but the solution is temporary and the problem will reoccur. To have the foam replaced means a complete strip down of the freezer and is seldom worth the cost. I am sorry, but you will probably have to get used to living with the problem. Incidently, it does make inroads into your electricity bills.
You have to remove all the food to a good ice chest with no ice. Pack it as full as you can before starting another one. You may need to put some in your refrigerator freezer. It will stay frozen for several hours while you melt the ice in the chest freezer. You can direct a fan blowing into it to speed up the melting. If it doesn't have a drain to catch the water in a tub you'll have to soak the water up in a towel etc. Don't chip at the ice to break it up quicker. You can damage the refrigeration coils.
This is likely a manual defrost freezer, which means you have to remove the food, unplug the unit, and let the ice melt on its own. Do not, and i repeat, DO NOT poke the ice away from the walls. I guarantee if you poke the ice away from the wall, you'll poke a hole in the wall, and force yourself to buy a new freezer.
SLOWER IS SAFER. put some boiling water, in the pot, inside the freezer, or use a hair dryer.
You need to remember heat rises and cold air falls. The best way to load a freezer is to put meats on the bottom. They take alot longer to freeze and thaw and can save your stock if you have a power failure. Keep non-critical things like ice cream, ice, and other thing towards the top for quicker access.
Is your circulating fan working?
Sometimes they stick and need a shot of WD 40 and then work
it back and forth a little until it wants to take off again. Keep me informed
and PLEASE give a Thumbs Up for the effort. The Raz Shack
ice cream is always the last to freeze and a temp of minus -10 degrees is usually required to get it to get hard. if you put the ice cream in the door it will be especially tough to freeze. a good thermometor is a good investment as you can observe the temps. usually ten degrees or 20 degrees is what they run. yes they do cycle on and off as long as they hold temps thats good. the outside of the freezer gets warm because the hot compressed refrigerant is spread through piping near its surface giving up its heat of compression . setting the stat to max will freeze the ice cream eventually but utility bill suffers . good luck