Question about Maytag LSE7806A Top Load Stacked Washer/Dryer

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LSE7806ACE lint build up

We have recently discovered that lint is building up in the dryer. We can see it in the rear of the dryer through holes in a round metal piece on the back wall. but we can't see any way to clean it out. I went to the Maytag site and looked at both the installation and care manuals but found nothing that suggested to me how we might clean out this filter. There aren't any screws to loosen or any other obvious way to get at it. We are concerned about a possible fire hazard. this washer dryer is installed in a closet in our bedroom and exhausted out the top. (We assume it is vented to the outside, but all we know is that it goes into the attic.) It is difficult to impossible to get behind this washer dryer without calling a service person. but we hate to call someone to simply clean out a filter. any suggestions?

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I have a similar problem with mine. the problem was the vent from the blower motor came partially off and over time the inside of the unit became absolutely caked with lint. the solution: 1. take off the front panel of the unit(where the controls are). don't worry, its not difficult, but unplug the machine or throw the breaker first so you don't get zapped. 2. vaccuum out the lint 3. put it back together. it's a good idea to take pics before you start taking things apart so if you run into trouble you have a visual record.

Posted on Jan 09, 2007

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Are you able to physically pull a section out in front of the filter? Or the filter itself? It may be held in by snap in style clamps?

Posted on Jan 03, 2007

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I reset the button on my fisher& payment dryer. It worked for a short while and stopped heating again. What next?


check to see if lint build up is causing your thermal switch to trip. Pull out the lint trap and you'll see 1 Phillips head screw behind where the lint trap normally sits. Remove the screw, and you'll feel the circular plastic piece the lint trap sits in become loose...pull this round piece out of the dryer from the bottom. If there is a lot of lint behind this circular plastic piece, that's probably what's tripping the heat sensor. Vac it out. Gently feel around the circumference of where you removed the piece to see if the fine mesh lint screen has any holes (if it does, it may be blowing lint into your exhaust and eventually clog the vent to the outside). If the mesh is torn, I assume that larger circular piece needs to be replaced at some point in whole or part. From what I can see, the design of the lint filter and trap is ....****. The system allows lint to enter the area where the heat sensor sits.

The short term fix is to vac out the sensor area regularly and that will keep the switch from tripping, if that is your actual problem.
this was answered by someone else a year or so ago on this site thought i'd pass it on.
Hope this works.

Dec 31, 2017 | Dryers

2 Answers

My kenmore elite dryer that i bought 2 years ago lint trap corner is catching my clothes and tearing them. we had it replaced and its doing it again. I am tired of messing with it. Please help.


don't know if you already had this fixed,usually this is caused by not having your dryer cleaned out,the lint builds up inside the duct that the lint filter slides down into and has to be removed and cleaned out.also in some of the kenmore dryer ducts there's a metal clip inside the duct that can come loose and hold the lint filter up.these are the two most likely causes for this to happen.

Sep 23, 2013 | Kenmore Elite HE4 Electric Dryer

1 Answer

How do I open the drum area of Kenmore model #66712694 dryer to clean it?


First you need to determine if your dryers blower housing and other components are located in the rear of the dryer or underneath the dryer. The quickest and most simple way to do this is to look at the front of the dryer and see if it is one complete front or two pieces. There will be a small gap completly across the front about a quarter way up if its two. If its two pieces then your work is going to be up front. You remove the lower kickplate with a flat screw driver and pressing the clips, one on each side in the groove. If its a solid front then you'll need a 1/4 " driver or drill with 1/4" socket, adapter, etc. From the rear of the dryer, there are about nine 1/4 inch screws you take off to access the area your looking for. Hope this helps, good luck. Now to look around the drum area, it also depends on if its one or two pieces. If one, remove the lint trap and take the two phillips head screws then take a flat head and pop the top up. Then inside, top front left and right sides there are two screws, either 5/16" or 1/4" screws you need to remove to pull the front off. If two pieces you'll have to pop the top as earlier, but you'll have to remove the kickplate, then two additional screws at the lower portion of the top piece as well as the top.

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jason_4570d45317834dd3

Apr 26, 2012 | Kenmore 65924 Electric Dryer

1 Answer

I have a build-up of lint and dust below my lint screen. I know how to clean my lint screen. Please let me know how to clean below lint screen in dryer cabinet where the air heads out of dryer.


I used a piece of bent metal clothes hanger to dig out some of the big pieces and then to dislodge the particles stuck to the bottom. First I tried my dirt devil and it wouldn't fit, then I brought in the shop vac. I have a roomba and no regular vacuum. The shop vac nozzle attachment was thin enough with some force to reach the majority and had the power to bring up the lint, dimes, and flossing tools. I use the shop vac with all extensions to clean my lint vent after removing the vent cover. If you plug the overflow in tub, the shop vac can remove hair clogs from the drain that accumulated from two long haired daughters for ten years. It can also unclog toilets (yuck), but has to be disinfected afterwards.

Sep 25, 2011 | Bosch Nexxt 500 Dryer

1 Answer

Do the Fisher Paykel Dryers DGGX1 take twice the drying time of a normal (Kenmore) dryer to dry cloths? I put in a load of towels and after an hour and a half they still weren't dry. My other dryer would...


make sure there is no lint build up inside the round housing where your lint trap goes. the holes in the housing sometimes plug up and you can't see it. one screw at the bottom and rotae slightly to remove. also make sure vent is clear

Jun 26, 2010 | Fisher and Paykel DGGX1 Electric Dryer

1 Answer

We have model# Lgn1000PQhe dryer will light but before the cycle the heat shuts off


Hi and welcome to FixYa. I am Kelly.

This can be caused by several things.

1. There is not enough airflow through the dryer.

a. First check the outside thru the wall vent flapper for any signs of lint build up. (clean as necessary)
b. Pull the lint filter and then use a flashlight to check for lint build up on either side of the lint filter.
(Use a folded metal coat hanger and a vacuum crevice tool to remove any excess lint.)
c. Wash the lint filter screen with white vinegar and water. This removes any fabric sofener sheet (bounce) particulate build up on the screen. It may look clean but it can still be blocked.
d. Try running the dryer as a test with the rear vent connection disconnected. If it perfroms normally the ducting from the dryer to the wall is restricted probably from lint build-up
e. As you do step d. above place your hand relaxed in the airflow... it should push your hand slightly away from the vent duct connection hole. If it does not do this there is a problem still with internal airflow through the dryer.
1) Inspect the rear vent connection tubing as far as you can see for obstructions or restrictions
2) If after all of the above and you still do not have good air flow then the blower wheel / fan may have a broken hub and is not turning fast enough or it is missing fan blades.
f. GOOD AIRFLOW and still burner goes out
1) Possible flame sensor failure
2) Possible gas vavle solenoid problem. (weak coil)

That is pretty much it for the basics... If you give all of the above a try and you still have problems just repsond here and someone will get back to you. I also will get notified of any response.

Thanks for using FixYa.

Kelly

Jun 20, 2010 | Dryers

1 Answer

Speed Queen dryer burner lights but does not dry clothes


This is a symptom of a severely clogged up vent or dryer passages.
Remove the vent duct hose from the back of the dryer and see if the problem persists. If it workes normally clean out the ducting and the through the wall flapper vent.
If the problem persists then remove the lint filter and inspect the air passages inside the dryer. Also check the exit hole where the vent duct connects for lint buildup. Use a crevice tool / vacuum to clear all dryer passages. If necessary use a folded coat metal hanger to assist in removing lint build up.

Wash the lint filter with whie wine vinegar and then soap and water to remove the dryer sheet particulate matter that builds up on the lint filter.

If the burner lights but goes out after 30 seconds then the flame sensor on the top of the burner assy ducting is bad.

Thanks for using FixYa.

Kelly

May 12, 2010 | Speed Queen AGS28AWF Gas Dryer

7 Answers

Fisher and Paykel dryer not drying


I've had this problem for 3+ years. There are possibly multiple reasons why your dryer trips the reset switch. My dryer has a design issue with the lint trap, in that it allows lint to build up around what I assume is the heat sensor / thermal switch. It's simple, the temperature is detected as too high in the dryer and trips the switch which cuts power to the heating element. The reset switch access as mentioned in other posts requires either tipping the dryer back or removing the front panel, at least partially, to access the switch. After the reset switch is pushed, you'll need to check if there's lint built up that's causing the reset issue. First, find the reset switch.

To access the switch, there are 4 Phillips head screws that need to be removed. For the first 2, lift the dryer lid and you'll see two half-moon shaped rubber inserts at each of the front corners of the machine. The inserts can be pulled out with your fingers or use a screwdriver, gently. There is 1 screw under each insert that needs to be removed. Once those screws are out, you can put the lid down and lift the plastic top of the dryer that the lid normally rests on. It's attached on the back of the dryer so don't worry, it won't come off...it will lift just like the dryer lid. Be careful of the sharp sheet metal edges. Now there are 2 smaller screws, 1 at each front corner, that attach the sheet metal pieces. Remove each of those screws. To get the front off requires a bit of finesse. You'll see that the front sheet metal panel of the dryer has bends in it to attach it to the sides of the dryer. Gently pull at the top corners, one at a time, to separate the front panel from the rest of the dryer. You'll see that there are u-shaped orange or red plastic pieces inserted into the sheet metal sides that align with holes in the front panel to hold the skin of the dryer together...the front should just pull away from those u-shaped pieces. There is a wire with a clip attached to the bottom of the front panel, probably a ground wire...if it pulls off when you remove the front panel, just reattach it when you put everything back together. The front sheet metal is also integral to the front feet of the dryer, so tilt the top of the front panel toward you and lift. The front panel should pull away. When you put the front back on the dryer, do it feet first by aligning the plastic foot pieces, then align the u-shaped side pieces, then worry about the top corners wrapping back around so the front fits flush.

The reset switch is in front at the bottom right of center and is probably orange. Just push it and you'll hear it click. I would vacuum out the lower part of the dryer at the point, but it's probably not what's causing your problem. I've gotten to the point where I use a yard stick or vacuum extension to push the switch without completely removing the front panel. Then I don't have to detach / reattach the ground wire. You'll see after you do it 3 or 4 times!

Now check to see if lint build up is causing your thermal switch to trip. Pull out the lint trap and you'll see 1 Phillips head screw behind where the lint trap normally sits. Remove the screw, and you'll feel the circular plastic piece the lint trap sits in become loose...pull this round piece out of the dryer from the bottom. If there is a lot of lint behind this circular plastic piece, that's probably what's tripping the heat sensor. Vac it out. Gently feel around the circumference of where you removed the piece to see if the fine mesh lint screen has any holes (if it does, it may be blowing lint into your exhaust and eventually clog the vent to the outside). If the mesh is torn, I assume that larger circular piece needs to be replaced at some point in whole or part. From what I can see, the design of the lint filter and trap is ....****. The system allows lint to enter the area where the heat sensor sits.

The short term fix is to vac out the sensor area regularly and that will keep the switch from tripping, if that is your actual problem. I believe F&P is aware of this issue and will probably remedy it for you. I called them once when this issue originally happened and had to wait for a tech to come out do what I described above. I haven't called them since, but have seen other posts regarding a new part or parts that F&P will provide...hopefully free! Good luck!

Apr 09, 2008 | Fisher and Paykel DEGX1 Electric Dryer

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