Question about Fahrenheat Electric Convector Baseboard Heater, 3'

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Heating solution if I need to change my heating system from gas to electric what is figure like i have 3 floors basement main floor and last floor

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About 3000 dollars

Posted on Nov 30, 2008

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Basements are supposed to be cooler . after all they are basically a cave .

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The Zone 1 (basement) and Zone 3 (second floor; no


On the zone damper motor, there should be a little lever allowing you to open the damper for emergency heat. Probably a bad zone motor or connection.

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I want to install 240v baseboard htrs in a below ground basement.


you must really love your hydro co
those heaters are a huge draw on your bill
why not install radiant heat they are cheep now in compairison
the unit is a central mount run the line in a loop arround basement and conect all the heaters in drop lines off the main line small thermostat valve for each room to control heat
cost is more for unit but savings are greater too they now make a light duty units designed for your porpose
single direct electric heaters are pigs on the hydro bell if you have gas or electric it is cheeper to run a small boiler or heat on demand system

Aug 04, 2009 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

I have a 23 year old Goodman 4 ton HVAC system that has done well but is needing more repairs more frequently. I am looking to replace the unit but anything I install will be placed on credit which is not...


A 23 year old unit will be a major energy hog.You will see a massive improvement even with a less efficient unit,but go with the energy efficiency.The price of fuel is going to keep going up,and you will be using the furnace for many years.I'm in Ohio,and we get by just fine on electric for the very rare occasion the temperature drops below the level where the heat pump cant keep up.If this really worries you,you can put a couple space heaters back for emergency.Of course your talking about a gas unit,or a dual fuel unit.The dual fuel would be your best bet of course for ultimate fuel efficiency,but they can be pricey for the ones with all the bells,and whistles.Some will even use the fuel that is less expensive at any given time throughout the day.For example in some circumstances electricity is more expensive during the day then at night.Ultimately you have to figure out how much energy you use on average to heat your house.If you know the efficiency of the unit you have now you can estimate the actual output energy that is actually needed to heat/cool your house.Which would be the effective output of the old unit.Figure out how much less energy input you will need with a more efficient unit to get the same average output as the old unit.Subtract the energy usage for the new unit from the average energy use from the last winter.This will be your approximate energy savings.This should give you some Idea of the energy savings.

Jun 24, 2009 | Ruud UBHC Air Conditioner

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Oil baseboard heat v electric baseboard heat.


Two 8 ft baseboards will heat this basement fine. You should eliminate any sources of flooding before you invest in refinished your basement.

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1 Answer

Works well but


Yup, they eat energy.

An electric dehumidifier includes a refrigeration cycle that is very similar to a window AC units and refrigerators. They cool the air in the basement to condense and collect water and remove humidity, heat the air as a required consequence of the refrigeration cycle and dump it back to your basement.

Two sources of humidity in basements include warm outside air that naturally cools due to below grade earth contact and water passing from the ground though the floors and walls and evaporating into the basement. Dehumidifiers do most of the work in the summer when higher temperatures outside enable air to hold more water content.

In the winter, cooler outside air contains less moisture by weight eventhough it may be raining and the relative humidity in basement will be less because the air is warmed relative to the outside. The lower moisture content in the winter also absorbs the water passing through the walls and floor.

From an energy perspective, you may want the humidity set NOT below 50%. This will keep humidity below the level mold desires, but prevents the dehumidifier from doing more work and eating more energy than needed. A cheap battery powered temp/humidy meter left in your basement will help. Sources that include the "mold triangle" (temperature, water & food) often separate fact from expensive hype.

If the dehumidifier doesn't keep up, consider adding a moisture barrier to the basement walls and floors such as Dry-lock and floor paints to ****** moisture entry. Moisture barriers act very similar with water as insulation does with heat. They don't eliminate the need for a dehumidifier, but they reduce the work they do and energy they eat.

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Water on basement floor


The song "knock three times , on the ceiling if you need meeeee! This sounds like a slow drain or plugged drain line, just reverse the water flow with a water hose or preassure! (last if its an old system over 20 yrs old you could have a rusted drain pan. try introducing bleach into the system (clorox)!............Thank-you very much!

Aug 25, 2008 | Heating & Cooling

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