Question about Kenmore Elite 45986 Front Load Washer

1 Answer

Tub squeaks I have a HE4 washer.The tub squeaks at low speed in back by the pulley with the belt off.It seems to make noise after it runs for a while.

Posted by on

1 Answer

  • Level 2:

    An expert who has achieved level 2 by getting 100 points

    MVP:

    An expert that got 5 achievements.

    Governor:

    An expert whose answer got voted for 20 times.

    Hot-Shot:

    An expert who has answered 20 questions.

  • Expert
  • 111 Answers

REAR BEARING WAS NOT LUBRICATED PROPERLY. REASON FOR SQUEEK/

Posted on Nov 30, 2008

Add Your Answer

Uploading: 0%

my-video-file.mp4

Complete. Click "Add" to insert your video. Add

×

Loading...
Loading...

Related Questions:

1 Answer

Duet washer making a loud noise on spin cycle, it squeaks on low spin and then when it gets up to high speed, it is really loud. What could this be?


In most cases it is something that is sticking between the drum and the housing. Check inside the boot by the door. If that is not helpful move the drum by hand and listen to see if you can locate the area of the noise.

Dec 30, 2015 | Whirlpool Duet GHW9150P Front Load Washer

Tip

Maytag Washer Squeaking Problem


This advice is for certain Maytag TOP LOADING washers equipped with a vertical transmission and drive belt system.

Loud squeaking noises during the wash cycle or, at the end of the spin cycle, can be attributed to a worn snubber ring and/or brake assembly. The snubber is a plastic ring located under the tub support. It helps to reduce vibration as the tub agitates and spins. You cannot lubricate the snubber to get rid of the noise. In fact, you may damage the washer if you do. A small amount of corn starch can be sprinkled under the bottom tub support where the snubber ring is located to get rid of some noise related problems (this will be the round metal plate where the tub support meets the bottom casing of the machine). A worn snubber will also cause some vibration or out of balance problems. The brake tends to glaze over after it has become worn and will squeak or cause sudden jerking of the washer when the spin cycle stops. If the corn starch tip does not get rid of the squeaks, I would recommend replacing the following parts:

Brake Stator
Brake Rotor and Lining
Snubber:


You will need: Brake Removal Kit*

*Brake removal tool is required in order to remove the brake assembly and/or to replace the snubber. There is a 200lbs brake spring located under the Brake Stator that must be compressed PRIOR to removal or you could cause injury to yourself.

The parts required to make the repairs aren't very expensive, but the tool required to do it can cost about $100. This repair I would rate as DIFFICULT for the average do-it-yourselfer. If you've never worked on this type of washer before, this is not a job that I would recommend. However, Maytag DOES provide informative how-to instructions with all their parts.

To replace the snubber and brake assembly:

1. Remove the front case of the washer to access the washer interior.
2. Tilt the washer towards the back and remove the drive belt. Slide the drive motor towards the center pulley to relieve belt tension.
3. Remove the drive pulley by removing the center cap and retaining ring from the drive shaft. Remember how these components go back together. There should be a couple of plastic drive bearing pieces and some metal washers above the pulley on the shaft.
3. Lower washer and remove hoses from the wash tub.
4. Remove the suspension springs. NOTE: Pulling the wash tub towards the spring you are removing will release some of the tension on it.
5. I usually remove the entire wash tub with transmission still installed at this point and place it upside down outside the washer for ease of accessing everything. (There are other methods, but I find this one easier).
6. This is where the brake compression tool will be required to remove the brake rotor, stator and snubber ring. (Instructions come with the tool). Basically, it involves compressing the spring by turning the compression tool CW with a wrench, loosening all the bolts on the brake stator housing, and then slowly turning the compression tool CCW.
7. The brake compression tool is removed at this point and the snubber, brake rotor, brake stator and brake spring can be accessed.
8. Replace any worn parts, and reassemble the brake assembly. DO NOT forget to place the brake spring back in place before putting the brake rotor back on.
9. Place the tub assembly right side up and lower back into washer.
10. Reconnect all hoses back to wash tub.
11. Reinstall all tub suspension springs. NOTE: It’s easier to start in the back of the washer and work your way towards the front.
12. Tilt washer back and reinstall drive pulley. NOTE: When placing drive pulley back on shaft turn pulley slightly to ensure it is seated all the way on the shaft. NOTE: If the shaft had multiple metal washers, you may only need ONE after replacing the snubber ring. Retain the extra washer for later use if needed. If the drive pulley is reinstalled correctly, a groove will be visible at the end of the drive shaft for the retaining ring to go back in place.
13. Reinstall drive belt.

NOTE: The following link lists the recommended tools to complete this repair:

Spring Removal Tool (item #455570)
Brake/Bearing/Seal Removal Tool Kit (item #997909)

http://www.repairclinic.com/SmartSearch/SmartSearch.aspx

Just go to these fields and select the following:

Brand: Maytag
Appliance Type: Washing Machine
Part Type: Tool

The list of all Maytag tools will appear.

NOTE: To save a few extra dollars, you can remove the 6 10-24 machine bolts, that hold the brake stator housing, one at a time and replace them with 10-24 x 2" machine bolts. Once all the original bolts are removed, back out the 2" machine bolts evenly, keeping the brake stator housing aligned but slowly releasing the pressure from the 200 lb spring.

After replacing the snubber ring, the brake and the brake stator housing, use the 2" long machine screws again to pull the unit together. Once all assembled, replace the 2" bolts with the original 10-24 X 1/2" machine bolts.

I hope this information is helpful.

on Dec 04, 2009 | Washing Machines

Tip

Maytag Washer Squeaking Problem


This advice is for certain Maytag TOP LOADING washers equipped with a vertical transmission and drive belt system.

Loud squeaking noises during the wash cycle or, at the end of the spin cycle, can be attributed to a worn snubber ring and/or brake assembly. The snubber is a plastic ring located under the tub support. It helps to reduce vibration as the tub agitates and spins. You cannot lubricate the snubber to get rid of the noise. In fact, you may damage the washer if you do. A small amount of corn starch can be sprinkled under the bottom tub support where the snubber ring is located to get rid of some noise related problems (this will be the round metal plate where the tub support meets the bottom casing of the machine). A worn snubber will also cause some vibration or out of balance problems. The brake tends to glaze over after it has become worn and will squeak or cause sudden jerking of the washer when the spin cycle stops. If the corn starch tip does not get rid of the squeaks, I would recommend replacing the following parts:

Brake Stator
Brake Rotor and Lining
Snubber:


You will need: Brake Removal Kit*

*Brake removal tool is required in order to remove the brake assembly and/or to replace the snubber. There is a 200lbs brake spring located under the Brake Stator that must be compressed PRIOR to removal or you could cause injury to yourself.

The parts required to make the repairs aren't very expensive, but the tool required to do it can cost about $100. This repair I would rate as DIFFICULT for the average do-it-yourselfer. If you've never worked on this type of washer before, this is not a job that I would recommend. However, Maytag DOES provide informative how-to instructions with all their parts.

To replace the snubber and brake assembly:

1. Remove the front case of the washer to access the washer interior.
2. Tilt the washer towards the back and remove the drive belt. Slide the drive motor towards the center pulley to relieve belt tension.
3. Remove the drive pulley by removing the center cap and retaining ring from the drive shaft. Remember how these components go back together. There should be a couple of plastic drive bearing pieces and some metal washers above the pulley on the shaft.
3. Lower washer and remove hoses from the wash tub.
4. Remove the suspension springs. NOTE: Pulling the wash tub towards the spring you are removing will release some of the tension on it.
5. I usually remove the entire wash tub with transmission still installed at this point and place it upside down outside the washer for ease of accessing everything. (There are other methods, but I find this one easier).
6. This is where the brake compression tool will be required to remove the brake rotor, stator and snubber ring. (Instructions come with the tool). Basically, it involves compressing the spring by turning the compression tool CW with a wrench, loosening all the bolts on the brake stator housing, and then slowly turning the compression tool CCW.
7. The brake compression tool is removed at this point and the snubber, brake rotor, brake stator and brake spring can be accessed.
8. Replace any worn parts, and reassemble the brake assembly. DO NOT forget to place the brake spring back in place before putting the brake rotor back on.
9. Place the tub assembly right side up and lower back into washer.
10. Reconnect all hoses back to wash tub.
11. Reinstall all tub suspension springs. NOTE: It’s easier to start in the back of the washer and work your way towards the front.
12. Tilt washer back and reinstall drive pulley. NOTE: When placing drive pulley back on shaft turn pulley slightly to ensure it is seated all the way on the shaft. NOTE: If the shaft had multiple metal washers, you may only need ONE after replacing the snubber ring. Retain the extra washer for later use if needed. If the drive pulley is reinstalled correctly, a groove will be visible at the end of the drive shaft for the retaining ring to go back in place.
13. Reinstall drive belt.

I hope you find these instructions helpful.


on Feb 09, 2008 | Maytag Atlantis MAV6000 Top Load Washer

1 Answer

Hoover 2300L 6.okg boss. Squeaking when agitating back& forth, not when spinning. Is this a bearing problem? & is it replacable. If so, from where in south australia? Or wherever.?




Washing machines don't usually run silently, but in most cases, a squeaking noise that occurs while the washer is agitating the clothing is not normal and signifies a problem. If the noise only happens when the washing is agitating, the problem is likely connected to the motor or your water pressure. Depending on the specific cause, you may feel comfortable fixing it yourself. Otherwise, call a professional.

Other People Are Reading


The Agitator
  • Agitators are located in the center of the drum, or basket, of top-load washing machines. Front loading washing machines do not use agitators -- instead, gravity moves the clothes from the top of the drum to the bottom. Agitators usually consist of a tall cone fitted with arms at the base. The purpose of the agitator is to rotate the clothes and soapy water around the tub to clean the clothes. The agitator itself is not usually the cause of the squeaking noise. It is powered by the drive mechanism, which consists of a motor, clutch and gears.
Motor Problems
  • A repetitive squeaking noise during the agitation cycle may signify a problem with the motor. Specifically, the belt on the motor may be wearing out. Some motors use rubber couplers, which also wear out easily. The belt is necessary for the agitator to turn, but over time, it wears thin, just like the belts in your car's motor. An easy way to test for this problem -- if you're handy -- is to take the belt off the motor and then run it. If the squeaking noise stops, the problem is indeed your belt. Of course, this means your agitator won't move. Replacing the belt should fix the problem.
Water Pressure Issues
  • The tub, or drum, fills with water right before the agitator turns on, and water continues to circulate throughout the washing process. As the tub fills and water circulates, you may hear a squeaking or squealing noise if you have high water pressure. This sound is caused by the force of the water moving through the pipes. To adjust this, turn the knobs on the hot and cold valves on the pipes that go into your washing machine.
Considerations
  • New washing machines may squeak at first as the parts "warm up," according to the GE Appliances website. The noise should disappear after five complete washing cycles have run on the machine. Unbalanced loads, overly heavy loads and loose items in the drum may also cause noise when the agitator comes on, but these things usually do not produce a squeaking sound.


Read more :http://www.ehow.com/info_12131280_washer-squeaks-agitating.html My Washer Squeaks When Agitating eHow

Jun 14, 2015 | Hoover Washing Machines

1 Answer

Washer making whining noise wash cycle


see this steps and fix it. God bless you

Tub Bearing

If the washer is making a loud noise the tub bearing might be worn out, this is a common problem. The bearing can be replaced. On some models the bearing is part of the outer tub and the outer tub will need to be replaced.


Enter your model number to see parts for your washing machine.
Help me find my model number


Tub Seal and Bearing Kit

If the washer is making a loud noise the tub seal and bearing kit may need to be replaced. This is a common problem. sometimes the tub seal and bearing are part of the outer tub and the outer tub would then need to be replaced.


Enter your model number to see parts for your washing machine.
Help me find my model number


Rear Drum with Bearing

If the washer is making a loud noise the rear drum with bearing might need to be replace. On this washer the bearing is not sold separately, the entire rear drum will have to be replaced. This is a very involved repair and will require disassembling most of the washer. However, the problem is going to get worse very quickly and so either the drum and bearing will need to be replaced or the washing machine.


Enter your model number to see parts for your washing machine.
Help me find my model number


Bearing

If the washer is making a loud noise the bearing might be worn out. As bearings wear out from friction they gradually get worse and worse until they fail. In the meantime they get louder. If the noise primarily happens during the spin cycle the bearing is likely the problem.


Enter your model number to see parts for your washing machine.
Help me find my model number


Drive Pulley

If the washer is making a loud noise the drive pulley might be worn out, cracked, loose or bent. Remove the drive pulley and inspect it carefully. If it is damaged or defective replace it.


Enter your model number to see parts for your washing machine.
Help me find my model number


Pulley

If the washer is making a loud noise the drive pulley may be worn out. If the drive pulley is loose or wobbling it will need to be replaced


Enter your model number to see parts for your washing machine.
Help me find my model number


U-Joint Kit

If the washer is making a loud noise the U-Joint may have failed. This is the primary drive mechanism for the agitation motion in this washer. Although this is not a very difficult repair for a DIY'er with some experience, the part is expensive and so it may be worth considering a new washer.


Enter your model number to see parts for your washing machine.
Help me find my model number


Motor Coupling

If the washer is making a loud noise the motor coupling might have failed. The motor coupling connects the motor to the washer transmission. It is designed to fail if the washer is overloaded in order to protect both the motor and transmission.


Enter your model number to see parts for your washing machine.
Help me find my model number


Clutch

If the washer is making a loud noise in the spin cycle, the clutch assembly might be worn out. The clutch assembly makes the connection between the transmission and the inner tub. It is designed to allow the tub to get up to the proper spin speed gradually. As the clutch wears out it may become loud during spin or just after the spin cycle finishes. The clutch is not repairable, if it is loud or not working properly it will need to be replaced.


Enter your model number to see parts for your washing machine.
Help me find my model number


Drive Belt

If the washer is making a loud noise the drive belt might be defective. Over time the drive belt will dry out and start cracking, eventually a piece of the belt can break off resulting in a loud noise whenever the motor is running.


Enter your model number to see parts for your washing machine.
Help me find my model number


Transmission

If the washer is making a loud noise the transmission might be worn out or defective. There are many other more likely causes for noise from a washer. If the noise turns out to be caused by the transmission it may have to be replaced.


Enter your model number to see parts for your washing machine.
Help me find my model number


Drain Pump

If the washer is making a loud noise the drain pump might be going bad or might have something caught in it. Remove the drain pump from the washer and inspect it carefully. Look for anything that might be caught in it, a piece of wire, plastic, etc. If nothing is wrong with the pump, but it's still noisy it will have to be replaced.


Enter your model number to see parts for your washing machine.
Help me find my model number


Drive Motor

If the washer is making a loud noise the drive motor bearings may have worn out. Washer motors are normally almost silent when they run. If the motor is run without a belt hooked up to it and it's loud it will have to be replaced.


Enter your model number to see parts for your washing machine.
Help me find my model number


Water Inlet Valve

If the washer is noisy or loud, particularly when the washer is filling, the water inlet valve is at fault and will need to be replaced.

Jul 20, 2013 | Whirlpool Ultimate Care II LSQ9549L Top...

1 Answer

No spin agitate or drain just motor noise


The noise coming from the motor means it is running but cannot drive the drive pulley and the pump pulley because the drive belt is either broken or has slipped off. The drive pulley and the pump are driven by a single belt. Replace the drive belt if broken or loose and has slipped off. Disconnect power then drain the water manually by placing the end of the drain hose into a bucket or a shallow basin. Position the bucket/basin as low as possible to extract as much water from the tub. Once drained, lay the machine on its back to access the belt under the machine. When replacing the belt, wrap it on the motor and the pump pulleys then on the drive pulley. Turn the drive pulley in such a way that the belt wraps around the motor pulley, pump pulley, and the drive pulley.

Nov 11, 2010 | Maytag Atlantis MAV6000 Top Load Washer

2 Answers

During the final spin, it is making a loud sound, is there a bearing that could be going?


The Maytag Neptune washer has 2 bearings seperated by a spacer pressed into the rear of the outer tub. The shaft from the inner basket support goes through a seal ten the 2 bearings where it attaches to the drive pulley. A small leak in the seal will cause the bearings to fail. The regular repair is expensive for both parts and labor as the outer tub has to be replaced. You can check around your area for a service company equipped to replace only the bearings rather than the tub.

Dec 30, 2009 | Maytag Neptune MAH5500B Front Load Washer

1 Answer

My maytag washer won't turn or spin..


This advice is for certain Maytag TOP LOADING washers equipped with a vertical transmission and drive belt system.

Loud squeaking noises during the wash cycle or, at the end of the spin cycle, can be attributed to a worn snubber ring and/or brake assembly. The snubber is a plastic ring located under the tub support. It helps to reduce vibration as the tub agitates and spins. You cannot lubricate the snubber to get rid of the noise. In fact, you may damage the washer if you do. A small amount of corn starch can be sprinkled under the bottom tub support where the snubber ring is located to get rid of some noise related problems (this will be the round metal plate where the tub support meets the bottom casing of the machine). A worn snubber will also cause some vibration or out of balance problems. The brake tends to glaze over after it has become worn and will squeak or cause sudden jerking of the washer when the spin cycle stops. If the corn starch tip does not get rid of the squeaks, I would recommend replacing the following parts:

Brake Stator
Brake Rotor and Lining
Snubber:


You will need: Brake Removal Kit*

*Brake removal tool is required in order to remove the brake assembly and/or to replace the snubber. There is a 200lbs brake spring located under the Brake Stator that must be compressed PRIOR to removal or you could cause injury to yourself.

The parts required to make the repairs aren't very expensive, but the tool required to do it can cost about $100. This repair I would rate as DIFFICULT for the average do-it-yourselfer. If you've never worked on this type of washer before, this is not a job that I would recommend. However, Maytag DOES provide informative how-to instructions with all their parts.

To replace the snubber and brake assembly:

1. Remove the front case of the washer to access the washer interior.
2. Tilt the washer towards the back and remove the drive belt. Slide the drive motor towards the center pulley to relieve belt tension.
3. Remove the drive pulley by removing the center cap and retaining ring from the drive shaft. Remember how these components go back together. There should be a couple of plastic drive bearing pieces and some metal washers above the pulley on the shaft.
3. Lower washer and remove hoses from the wash tub.
4. Remove the suspension springs. NOTE: Pulling the wash tub towards the spring you are removing will release some of the tension on it.
5. I usually remove the entire wash tub with transmission still installed at this point and place it upside down outside the washer for ease of accessing everything. (There are other methods, but I find this one easier).
6. This is where the brake compression tool will be required to remove the brake rotor, stator and snubber ring. (Instructions come with the tool). Basically, it involves compressing the spring by turning the compression tool CW with a wrench, loosening all the bolts on the brake stator housing, and then slowly turning the compression tool CCW.
7. The brake compression tool is removed at this point and the snubber, brake rotor, brake stator and brake spring can be accessed.
8. Replace any worn parts, and reassemble the brake assembly. DO NOT forget to place the brake spring back in place before putting the brake rotor back on.
9. Place the tub assembly right side up and lower back into washer.
10. Reconnect all hoses back to wash tub.
11. Reinstall all tub suspension springs. NOTE: It’s easier to start in the back of the washer and work your way towards the front.
12. Tilt washer back and reinstall drive pulley. NOTE: When placing drive pulley back on shaft turn pulley slightly to ensure it is seated all the way on the shaft. NOTE: If the shaft had multiple metal washers, you may only need ONE after replacing the snubber ring. Retain the extra washer for later use if needed. If the drive pulley is reinstalled correctly, a groove will be visible at the end of the drive shaft for the retaining ring to go back in place.
13. Reinstall drive belt.

NOTE: The following link lists the recommended tools to complete this repair:

Spring Removal Tool (item #455570)
Brake/Bearing/Seal Removal Tool Kit (item #997909)

Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.

Jan 03, 2009 | Washing Machines

1 Answer

Grinding sound from washer


the pully is the drain pump they can go bad or may have somthing in it, pump is not bad to replace part us usually 40 -60$ , you could burn belt up and be forced to replace it also, but if you replace pump would not be a bad idea anyway belts are 20-30 $

Mar 30, 2008 | Maytag Atlantis MAV6000 Top Load Washer

3 Answers

Whirlpool GHW9100LW1, belt came off


I had the same problem and being a procrastinator, I waited until the belt came off before launching a full scale investigation into the knocking noise it had been making for about a year. Here is what I found and below that is my no guarantees fix.....
I removed the nut and pulled the tub pulley off. I noticed the tub shaft has a "shoulder bolt" and the pulley could not be tightened onto the shoulder bolt with enough squeeze to keep the tub pulley from wobbling. Tolerance issue... maybe? I decided to measure the keyed tub shaft with calipers and found the thickest part of the shaft to be 1" ish. The Shaft is part of the tub bearing assembly (from my observation) and the tub shaft is part of the tub bearing which measured 1 1/4" diameter. I found a washer that was 1" inside diameter and 1 1/4" outside diameter and placed it over the tub shaft behind the tub pulley. I tightened the nut snugly and reinstalled the belt. Ahhhhh, quiet operation and no more wobble. I will let you know if it causes another problem but from what I can tell.... replacing the tub pulley with another of the same dimensions will not work.

you don't need a very thick washer(my washer is too thick (.1"ish) so I will replace it soon(yeah right) with 1/32" or maybe 1/16"...I used rubber but I think steel or brass or what ever would probably work too.

Purists will tell you that the lock nut should be replaced, or if you don't use the permanent thread locker you could use loctite.

Hope that helps.

Feb 23, 2008 | Whirlpool Duet GHW9150P Front Load Washer

Not finding what you are looking for?
Kenmore Elite 45986 Front Load Washer Logo

259 people viewed this question

Ask a Question

Usually answered in minutes!

Top Kenmore Washing Machines Experts

Richard Roth
Richard Roth

Level 3 Expert

9472 Answers

Jesus  Colon
Jesus Colon

Level 1 Expert

12 Answers

Fred Sops

Level 2 Expert

271 Answers

Are you a Kenmore Washing Machine Expert? Answer questions, earn points and help others

Answer questions

Manuals & User Guides

Loading...