Question about Kenmore Elite 45986 Front Load Washer

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Tub squeaks I have a HE4 washer.The tub squeaks at low speed in back by the pulley with the belt off.It seems to make noise after it runs for a while.

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REAR BEARING WAS NOT LUBRICATED PROPERLY. REASON FOR SQUEEK/

Posted on Nov 30, 2008

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Duet washer making a loud noise on spin cycle, it squeaks on low spin and then when it gets up to high speed, it is really loud. What could this be?


In most cases it is something that is sticking between the drum and the housing. Check inside the boot by the door. If that is not helpful move the drum by hand and listen to see if you can locate the area of the noise.

Dec 30, 2015 | Whirlpool Duet GHW9150P Front Load Washer

Tip

Maytag Washer Squeaking Problem


This advice is for certain Maytag TOP LOADING washers equipped with a vertical transmission and drive belt system.

Loud squeaking noises during the wash cycle or, at the end of the spin cycle, can be attributed to a worn snubber ring and/or brake assembly. The snubber is a plastic ring located under the tub support. It helps to reduce vibration as the tub agitates and spins. You cannot lubricate the snubber to get rid of the noise. In fact, you may damage the washer if you do. A small amount of corn starch can be sprinkled under the bottom tub support where the snubber ring is located to get rid of some noise related problems (this will be the round metal plate where the tub support meets the bottom casing of the machine). A worn snubber will also cause some vibration or out of balance problems. The brake tends to glaze over after it has become worn and will squeak or cause sudden jerking of the washer when the spin cycle stops. If the corn starch tip does not get rid of the squeaks, I would recommend replacing the following parts:

Brake Stator
Brake Rotor and Lining
Snubber:


You will need: Brake Removal Kit*

*Brake removal tool is required in order to remove the brake assembly and/or to replace the snubber. There is a 200lbs brake spring located under the Brake Stator that must be compressed PRIOR to removal or you could cause injury to yourself.

The parts required to make the repairs aren't very expensive, but the tool required to do it can cost about $100. This repair I would rate as DIFFICULT for the average do-it-yourselfer. If you've never worked on this type of washer before, this is not a job that I would recommend. However, Maytag DOES provide informative how-to instructions with all their parts.

To replace the snubber and brake assembly:

1. Remove the front case of the washer to access the washer interior.
2. Tilt the washer towards the back and remove the drive belt. Slide the drive motor towards the center pulley to relieve belt tension.
3. Remove the drive pulley by removing the center cap and retaining ring from the drive shaft. Remember how these components go back together. There should be a couple of plastic drive bearing pieces and some metal washers above the pulley on the shaft.
3. Lower washer and remove hoses from the wash tub.
4. Remove the suspension springs. NOTE: Pulling the wash tub towards the spring you are removing will release some of the tension on it.
5. I usually remove the entire wash tub with transmission still installed at this point and place it upside down outside the washer for ease of accessing everything. (There are other methods, but I find this one easier).
6. This is where the brake compression tool will be required to remove the brake rotor, stator and snubber ring. (Instructions come with the tool). Basically, it involves compressing the spring by turning the compression tool CW with a wrench, loosening all the bolts on the brake stator housing, and then slowly turning the compression tool CCW.
7. The brake compression tool is removed at this point and the snubber, brake rotor, brake stator and brake spring can be accessed.
8. Replace any worn parts, and reassemble the brake assembly. DO NOT forget to place the brake spring back in place before putting the brake rotor back on.
9. Place the tub assembly right side up and lower back into washer.
10. Reconnect all hoses back to wash tub.
11. Reinstall all tub suspension springs. NOTE: It’s easier to start in the back of the washer and work your way towards the front.
12. Tilt washer back and reinstall drive pulley. NOTE: When placing drive pulley back on shaft turn pulley slightly to ensure it is seated all the way on the shaft. NOTE: If the shaft had multiple metal washers, you may only need ONE after replacing the snubber ring. Retain the extra washer for later use if needed. If the drive pulley is reinstalled correctly, a groove will be visible at the end of the drive shaft for the retaining ring to go back in place.
13. Reinstall drive belt.

NOTE: The following link lists the recommended tools to complete this repair:

Spring Removal Tool (item #455570)
Brake/Bearing/Seal Removal Tool Kit (item #997909)

http://www.repairclinic.com/SmartSearch/SmartSearch.aspx

Just go to these fields and select the following:

Brand: Maytag
Appliance Type: Washing Machine
Part Type: Tool

The list of all Maytag tools will appear.

NOTE: To save a few extra dollars, you can remove the 6 10-24 machine bolts, that hold the brake stator housing, one at a time and replace them with 10-24 x 2" machine bolts. Once all the original bolts are removed, back out the 2" machine bolts evenly, keeping the brake stator housing aligned but slowly releasing the pressure from the 200 lb spring.

After replacing the snubber ring, the brake and the brake stator housing, use the 2" long machine screws again to pull the unit together. Once all assembled, replace the 2" bolts with the original 10-24 X 1/2" machine bolts.

I hope this information is helpful.

on Dec 04, 2009 | Washing Machines

Tip

Maytag Washer Squeaking Problem


This advice is for certain Maytag TOP LOADING washers equipped with a vertical transmission and drive belt system.

Loud squeaking noises during the wash cycle or, at the end of the spin cycle, can be attributed to a worn snubber ring and/or brake assembly. The snubber is a plastic ring located under the tub support. It helps to reduce vibration as the tub agitates and spins. You cannot lubricate the snubber to get rid of the noise. In fact, you may damage the washer if you do. A small amount of corn starch can be sprinkled under the bottom tub support where the snubber ring is located to get rid of some noise related problems (this will be the round metal plate where the tub support meets the bottom casing of the machine). A worn snubber will also cause some vibration or out of balance problems. The brake tends to glaze over after it has become worn and will squeak or cause sudden jerking of the washer when the spin cycle stops. If the corn starch tip does not get rid of the squeaks, I would recommend replacing the following parts:

Brake Stator
Brake Rotor and Lining
Snubber:


You will need: Brake Removal Kit*

*Brake removal tool is required in order to remove the brake assembly and/or to replace the snubber. There is a 200lbs brake spring located under the Brake Stator that must be compressed PRIOR to removal or you could cause injury to yourself.

The parts required to make the repairs aren't very expensive, but the tool required to do it can cost about $100. This repair I would rate as DIFFICULT for the average do-it-yourselfer. If you've never worked on this type of washer before, this is not a job that I would recommend. However, Maytag DOES provide informative how-to instructions with all their parts.

To replace the snubber and brake assembly:

1. Remove the front case of the washer to access the washer interior.
2. Tilt the washer towards the back and remove the drive belt. Slide the drive motor towards the center pulley to relieve belt tension.
3. Remove the drive pulley by removing the center cap and retaining ring from the drive shaft. Remember how these components go back together. There should be a couple of plastic drive bearing pieces and some metal washers above the pulley on the shaft.
3. Lower washer and remove hoses from the wash tub.
4. Remove the suspension springs. NOTE: Pulling the wash tub towards the spring you are removing will release some of the tension on it.
5. I usually remove the entire wash tub with transmission still installed at this point and place it upside down outside the washer for ease of accessing everything. (There are other methods, but I find this one easier).
6. This is where the brake compression tool will be required to remove the brake rotor, stator and snubber ring. (Instructions come with the tool). Basically, it involves compressing the spring by turning the compression tool CW with a wrench, loosening all the bolts on the brake stator housing, and then slowly turning the compression tool CCW.
7. The brake compression tool is removed at this point and the snubber, brake rotor, brake stator and brake spring can be accessed.
8. Replace any worn parts, and reassemble the brake assembly. DO NOT forget to place the brake spring back in place before putting the brake rotor back on.
9. Place the tub assembly right side up and lower back into washer.
10. Reconnect all hoses back to wash tub.
11. Reinstall all tub suspension springs. NOTE: It’s easier to start in the back of the washer and work your way towards the front.
12. Tilt washer back and reinstall drive pulley. NOTE: When placing drive pulley back on shaft turn pulley slightly to ensure it is seated all the way on the shaft. NOTE: If the shaft had multiple metal washers, you may only need ONE after replacing the snubber ring. Retain the extra washer for later use if needed. If the drive pulley is reinstalled correctly, a groove will be visible at the end of the drive shaft for the retaining ring to go back in place.
13. Reinstall drive belt.

I hope you find these instructions helpful.


on Feb 09, 2008 | Maytag Atlantis MAV6000 Top Load Washer

1 Answer

Hoover 2300L 6.okg boss. Squeaking when agitating back& forth, not when spinning. Is this a bearing problem? & is it replacable. If so, from where in south australia? Or wherever.?




Washing machines don't usually run silently, but in most cases, a squeaking noise that occurs while the washer is agitating the clothing is not normal and signifies a problem. If the noise only happens when the washing is agitating, the problem is likely connected to the motor or your water pressure. Depending on the specific cause, you may feel comfortable fixing it yourself. Otherwise, call a professional.

Other People Are Reading


The Agitator
  • Agitators are located in the center of the drum, or basket, of top-load washing machines. Front loading washing machines do not use agitators -- instead, gravity moves the clothes from the top of the drum to the bottom. Agitators usually consist of a tall cone fitted with arms at the base. The purpose of the agitator is to rotate the clothes and soapy water around the tub to clean the clothes. The agitator itself is not usually the cause of the squeaking noise. It is powered by the drive mechanism, which consists of a motor, clutch and gears.
Motor Problems
  • A repetitive squeaking noise during the agitation cycle may signify a problem with the motor. Specifically, the belt on the motor may be wearing out. Some motors use rubber couplers, which also wear out easily. The belt is necessary for the agitator to turn, but over time, it wears thin, just like the belts in your car's motor. An easy way to test for this problem -- if you're handy -- is to take the belt off the motor and then run it. If the squeaking noise stops, the problem is indeed your belt. Of course, this means your agitator won't move. Replacing the belt should fix the problem.
Water Pressure Issues
  • The tub, or drum, fills with water right before the agitator turns on, and water continues to circulate throughout the washing process. As the tub fills and water circulates, you may hear a squeaking or squealing noise if you have high water pressure. This sound is caused by the force of the water moving through the pipes. To adjust this, turn the knobs on the hot and cold valves on the pipes that go into your washing machine.
Considerations
  • New washing machines may squeak at first as the parts "warm up," according to the GE Appliances website. The noise should disappear after five complete washing cycles have run on the machine. Unbalanced loads, overly heavy loads and loose items in the drum may also cause noise when the agitator comes on, but these things usually do not produce a squeaking sound.


Read more :http://www.ehow.com/info_12131280_washer-squeaks-agitating.html My Washer Squeaks When Agitating eHow

Jun 14, 2015 | Hoover Washing Machines

2 Answers

Squeaking loud...when u turn it on


ck rollers in back of tub,this will require that you removethe tub.also ck the belt addjuster these need to be lubercated ever few years. ck also around the tub seals, sometimes coins left in chlothes will stick in or around & rub metal making noise.i would remove the belt from motor before trying anything.turn on air fluff setting. start dryer to see if noise is comeing from motor or tub.

Feb 25, 2013 | Maytag Dryers

1 Answer

No spin agitate or drain just motor noise


The noise coming from the motor means it is running but cannot drive the drive pulley and the pump pulley because the drive belt is either broken or has slipped off. The drive pulley and the pump are driven by a single belt. Replace the drive belt if broken or loose and has slipped off. Disconnect power then drain the water manually by placing the end of the drain hose into a bucket or a shallow basin. Position the bucket/basin as low as possible to extract as much water from the tub. Once drained, lay the machine on its back to access the belt under the machine. When replacing the belt, wrap it on the motor and the pump pulleys then on the drive pulley. Turn the drive pulley in such a way that the belt wraps around the motor pulley, pump pulley, and the drive pulley.

Nov 11, 2010 | Maytag Atlantis MAV6000 Top Load Washer

1 Answer

I am experiencing a squeaking noise from infront near the fan belt area. when i accelerate,it gets louder. I discovered that the power steering pump is leaking ,so i topped up the reservoir and it stopped...


i have a similar problem. a squeaking noise, sounds when i start the engine, and when i stop the engine. at times it comes when the engine is running and idle, and it lasts some time like a high pitched whistle. Ive had several mechanics look at it, and it seem to be one of the smaller pulleys that the belts run around. in the 2002 model (petrol) of the crv the belts are not the cam belts, becuase this model has a cam chain (much more robust!). so they all said its nothing to worry about. you can try having your pulley replaced.

Jan 18, 2010 | 2002 Honda CR-V

2 Answers

During the final spin, it is making a loud sound, is there a bearing that could be going?


The Maytag Neptune washer has 2 bearings seperated by a spacer pressed into the rear of the outer tub. The shaft from the inner basket support goes through a seal ten the 2 bearings where it attaches to the drive pulley. A small leak in the seal will cause the bearings to fail. The regular repair is expensive for both parts and labor as the outer tub has to be replaced. You can check around your area for a service company equipped to replace only the bearings rather than the tub.

Dec 30, 2009 | Maytag Neptune MAH5500B Front Load Washer

1 Answer

My maytag washer won't turn or spin..


This advice is for certain Maytag TOP LOADING washers equipped with a vertical transmission and drive belt system.

Loud squeaking noises during the wash cycle or, at the end of the spin cycle, can be attributed to a worn snubber ring and/or brake assembly. The snubber is a plastic ring located under the tub support. It helps to reduce vibration as the tub agitates and spins. You cannot lubricate the snubber to get rid of the noise. In fact, you may damage the washer if you do. A small amount of corn starch can be sprinkled under the bottom tub support where the snubber ring is located to get rid of some noise related problems (this will be the round metal plate where the tub support meets the bottom casing of the machine). A worn snubber will also cause some vibration or out of balance problems. The brake tends to glaze over after it has become worn and will squeak or cause sudden jerking of the washer when the spin cycle stops. If the corn starch tip does not get rid of the squeaks, I would recommend replacing the following parts:

Brake Stator
Brake Rotor and Lining
Snubber:


You will need: Brake Removal Kit*

*Brake removal tool is required in order to remove the brake assembly and/or to replace the snubber. There is a 200lbs brake spring located under the Brake Stator that must be compressed PRIOR to removal or you could cause injury to yourself.

The parts required to make the repairs aren't very expensive, but the tool required to do it can cost about $100. This repair I would rate as DIFFICULT for the average do-it-yourselfer. If you've never worked on this type of washer before, this is not a job that I would recommend. However, Maytag DOES provide informative how-to instructions with all their parts.

To replace the snubber and brake assembly:

1. Remove the front case of the washer to access the washer interior.
2. Tilt the washer towards the back and remove the drive belt. Slide the drive motor towards the center pulley to relieve belt tension.
3. Remove the drive pulley by removing the center cap and retaining ring from the drive shaft. Remember how these components go back together. There should be a couple of plastic drive bearing pieces and some metal washers above the pulley on the shaft.
3. Lower washer and remove hoses from the wash tub.
4. Remove the suspension springs. NOTE: Pulling the wash tub towards the spring you are removing will release some of the tension on it.
5. I usually remove the entire wash tub with transmission still installed at this point and place it upside down outside the washer for ease of accessing everything. (There are other methods, but I find this one easier).
6. This is where the brake compression tool will be required to remove the brake rotor, stator and snubber ring. (Instructions come with the tool). Basically, it involves compressing the spring by turning the compression tool CW with a wrench, loosening all the bolts on the brake stator housing, and then slowly turning the compression tool CCW.
7. The brake compression tool is removed at this point and the snubber, brake rotor, brake stator and brake spring can be accessed.
8. Replace any worn parts, and reassemble the brake assembly. DO NOT forget to place the brake spring back in place before putting the brake rotor back on.
9. Place the tub assembly right side up and lower back into washer.
10. Reconnect all hoses back to wash tub.
11. Reinstall all tub suspension springs. NOTE: It’s easier to start in the back of the washer and work your way towards the front.
12. Tilt washer back and reinstall drive pulley. NOTE: When placing drive pulley back on shaft turn pulley slightly to ensure it is seated all the way on the shaft. NOTE: If the shaft had multiple metal washers, you may only need ONE after replacing the snubber ring. Retain the extra washer for later use if needed. If the drive pulley is reinstalled correctly, a groove will be visible at the end of the drive shaft for the retaining ring to go back in place.
13. Reinstall drive belt.

NOTE: The following link lists the recommended tools to complete this repair:

Spring Removal Tool (item #455570)
Brake/Bearing/Seal Removal Tool Kit (item #997909)

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Jan 03, 2009 | Washing Machines

1 Answer

Grinding sound from washer


the pully is the drain pump they can go bad or may have somthing in it, pump is not bad to replace part us usually 40 -60$ , you could burn belt up and be forced to replace it also, but if you replace pump would not be a bad idea anyway belts are 20-30 $

Mar 30, 2008 | Maytag Atlantis MAV6000 Top Load Washer

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