The smog check station couldn't communicate with my on board computer, but I have never had any check engine light problems. I paid them $30 for a failed test, and the dealer wants $100 for me to pay them to reset my computers. Then I have to drive it 200 miles, and retest. But I think it is the scanner at the smog check station causing the issue, possibly. What to do?
Just to clear things up, having the monitors ready has nothing do to with OBD Communications. Ready or not, it will communicate. The original issue here was a station with a bad scanner. she did the right thing trying somewhere else and following up to get her $ back.
SOURCE: emmision test failed?
maybe i can help, the car has to be in a obd rhope this helpseadiness mode,thecar is probably not in this mode because it has not been driven enough or the(right way). you have do do a drive cycle to get the computer to go into obd readiness mode. also check pin #16 on obd connector tomake sure it has power. go to obd website for complete instructions on the DRIVE CYCLE it is rather long,
SOURCE: DLC communications with OBD not possible
OBD II connector troubleshooting 101
I had the same problem with my 2000 Elantra. the OBD II connector pins get squished and won't make cantact with the scan tool, therefore no connection. the solution is to bend the pins back so they will connect to the scan tool.
FIRST! check your lighter and radio fuses (which you have already done). If possible, make sure your scan tool is working properly, try it on another car. If it is functioning properly, remove the 2 screws holding the obd II connector to the dash. Look for obvious signs of corrosion, damage, or stuff that shouln't be in the connector (rocks, gum, etc.) clean the connector with a good electronics cleaner (I use the CRC stuff), you can usually find it at you local parts store, radio shack, or even wal mart. hose down the inside of the connector thouroughly and allow time to dry.
check for voltage between 4 (gnd) & 16 (+vcc) then 5(gnd) and 16(+vcc) with the ignition on the voltage should be between 12v-16v (these pins may be different on other cars, look for an OBD II connector pinout diagram if your car is different). If this voltage is not present at either pin, the problem is not the connector. check your fuses and wiring. if this voltage is present at both pins continue.
Here's what I did. with the connector free from the dash, you can see the back of the connector where the wires enter the connector. on either side of the connector there may be a white clip. pop both of them off. you should be able to push a small screwdriver or pick in that space to pull the pins back out towards the outside of the connector. do one at a time so you can tell if the pin has moved back out into position. do this for all of the pins. Try to connect. if still no luck try again to push out the pins and reconnect.
If your connection is restored, replace the clips, screw it back into the dash. Return your car to the lousy DMV where they will proceed to tell you something else is wrong which they neglected to tell you on your first 10 visits!! :-)
Stuff thats good to know:
some auto parts stores will connect their OBD II scan tool to you car for free. auto zone is one place
some times the computer will need to reset to restore a connection to the scan tool. to do this simply cycle the ignition off (wait a few seconds) then on again.
online auction places are a excellent resource for USB to OBD II connectors to connect your laptop to your car. there is lots of OBD II diagnostic freeware out there to go with your newly purchased connector.
Good Luck
Chris
-CL Systems
SOURCE: emmision test failed?
It is possible that the scan tool that the shops are using, is powered independently from the OBD11 connector, but the testing station relies on the connector for power and if the fuse for it is blown, they get no data and you fail.
I've attached a picture of the connector and where you should see 12 volts. Get a test light and check this pin, if you have no power between this pin and ground, you either have a blown fuse or a wiring problem
SOURCE: 2001 Elantra stall, loss of power. Driving at
I am having the exact same problem with my 2001 Hyundai Elantra. I was told that the engine code that comes up when the sensor is on is called "Absolute Pressure In The Manifold". I was told by a "Hyundai Specialist" that when that code comes up it usually means that the seal on the manifold is Fuct. When my mechanic checked that out for me he had noticed that my manifold had 4 cracks in it(can varify cause he showed me). He replaced the manifold and gasket. The car ran fine for about 2-3 days and since then the problem has since come back and my check engine light will no longer go on/off it only stays on. Because of the check engine light always staying on I have noticed that on many occasions my car will hiccup many times in a row. The only way to stop the hiccup I have noticed is to take my foot right of the gas for approx. 2-3 sec then car will continue without hiccup(till it happends all over again). All in all I have been having this problem now for approx. 1 year and if there is somehow someway it could be repaired I would appretiate it.
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It turned out it was not my car, but the cheap smog station - I got a refund and went to another place and passed with no problems
Oh, I mean, i went to another place and it worked so the place I paid the first time had to give me a refund since I proved the problem was their equipment
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