Question about Wilton 17202 8" Bench Grinder

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Grinder starts and stops on startup

Grinder powers off at start up for a fews seconds then starts again gets up to speed and stays on, it does this on/off sequence 2 or 3 times. This does this 3 out 4 starts. One the odd occasion it will start up normally.

Voltage supply good 116v, wires and connections all good start/stop switch contact good. Once the grinder is running the probelm goes away which in turn eliminates connection problems.

Capacitor faulty?

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If this is a cap start motor and not a centrifugal start run motor then bad cap is good place to start

Posted on Dec 03, 2008

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Porter cable


DO NOT leave it that way - that fuse is for YOUR protection, and the protection of your family and neighbors.

That humming is probably an byproduct of the speed control, not too much to worry about. The vibration should go away almost entirely when you reset the wheels to run true and dress them to balance.

The capacitor is your starting capacitor - its voltage rating is completely unimportant - that's a max voltage rating, and they only wanted to stock one capacitor, not have one for the 120V versions and a second one for the 240V versions.

Did you by chance start working on this grinder while it was still under warranty?

If the wheels turn freely when the power's off, and if the grinder doesn't get awfully warm when it's in use, then I'd think that the problem is within the speed control board.

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1 Answer

My grinder starts slowly and takes time to build up to speed. It is a model 612 and does not appear to be a capacitive start motor. All I can see under the base plate is a relay. Thanks for your...


Hi and welcome to FixYa, I am Kelly
Inside your grinder either the stationary switch or the rotating assembly that actuates the stationary switch has failed.

Download this pdf file:
http://www.baldor.com/pdf/literature/CA506_0806_WEB.pdf Then go to page 9

The rotating assembly is this part number: (most common failure)
34RS2060SP

You must remove the end plate / cap to change this part.

The statonary switch rarely fails unless the rotating assembly damaged the contacts when the rotating assemble failed. When the rotating assembly fails you often find a spring and flyweight loose inside the grinder during disassembly. Should your stationary switch have failed try and get a number off of it so you can get the right switch. Otherwise you have to use NEMA code / Body type numbers.

Thanks for choosing FixYa,
Kelly

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Assuming your local tech confirms that your bench grinder tests ok. The problem is probably that the grinder draws too much current for the RCD and is therefore detected as an earth leakage. High amperage devices often do that. Your best bet would be to plug it in to a socket which is on a non-rcd circuit. Maybe you have an RCD on the whole house though? I would start with returning the grinder and trying a different brand with a lower amperage/wattage rating. If that doesnt work, I would call an electrician to discuss installing a different RCD or running a separate circuit for your power tools.

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I have a ludell (machine tool) bench grinder. The problem is that the grinder disc will not turn. The motor hums but won't turn. I took the disc off and turned the shaft by hand with the powder on and it...


Ah, the start winding is not operating. When you turn the motor by hand. When the motor speeds up, do you hear a click sound? This is the start winding switch working. There might be a capacitor that is wired in with this switch that is used to start the grinder. If this capacitor is fried, the motor will not start. If the switch is shot, also the motor will not start. There could also be a wire or connector in this part of the motor that is not connected, or fried and not making contact. These are a few things to look for.

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My 6 inch Cummins bench grinder stopped working. When you turn on the switch it only has a quiet hum. Is it the capacitor?


Try wrapping a thin cord around the shaft many times to allow the shaft to be spun in the normal running direction when pulled. Pull sharply on the cord and turn the motor on--if the starting capacitor is bad, the motor should continue to run until shut off. If there is no capacitor, then the motor uses a start winding and a centrifugal switch to start. The switch is supposed to open when the motor comes up to speed. If you used to hear a loud 'click' when the motor was shut off and slowing down, then you likely have the start winding and switch. If the contacts on the switch become burned and not make contact, then it will display the symptoms you mention. You will need to access one or the other end covers to reach the switch. Hope this helps!

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Here's a link to download the pdf.
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I know this is an old post, but maybe it will help others looking for information.

I have the Craftsman 1/3-HP grinder models: 397.19580 & 397.19581.

They are Split-Phase single voltage (115 V), and use a Klixon start-up current style relay - 2CR14-224.

The relay is normally open. When the large starting current in the main/run winding circuit is sensed by the the relay coil (term 3 & 4) which is in series with the main winding, the relay contacts close (term 2 & 4).

The one end of the start-up winding is connected to the main coil's BLK wire in the coil pack.

When the relay contacts close the start-up winding is energized. The start-up coil is used to provide a boost to over-come the resting inertia of the rotor.

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This should take about 2-3 seconds, if the relay malfunctions, the high current through the start-up windings (thin wires) may be damaged.

Here is a diagram I have made.
older-sears-bench-grinder-wont-run-1-3-z1zi3msqm0xxzvze3v341n5r-4-0.jpg

Klixon 2CR relays are no longer available.

You may find a suitable replacement here:
http://www.herbach.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=HAR&Product_

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The capacitor is easy to change and can be matched once you remove it by any electronics parts house.

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