Height and angle adjusters are not locking tightly.
What is the deal with the locking knobs for the adjustment wheels? it seems to have only a fractin of throw which is not allowing it to lock the wheel. I have checked to see if it was assembled properly and it appears fine. the bushing spring washer and washer are behind the pin in that order.
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Just as a question and I am not being smart you know that the wheel to raise the blade work counter clockwise.
The other thing you need to check is in your manual here is the part how to adjust the blade for raisin/lowering.
After five hours of operation, the blade elevation/tilting mechanism should be checked for looseness, binding, or other abnormalities. Disconnect the saw from the power source, turn the saw upside down and pull up and down on the motor unit. Observe any movement in the motor mounting mechanism. Looseness or play in the blade raising screw 1 should be adjusted as follows (Fig. 55): 1. Loosen nut 2. 2. Adjust the nut 3 until it is finger-tight against the bracket 4, then back off the nut 3 1/6 turn. 3. Tighten nut 2. The maximum allowable play of the screw rod 1 is 5/32" (4 m). Place a small amount of dry lubricant (such as graphite or silicon) on the screw rod 1 at the thrust washer 5. Do not oil the threads of screw rod 1. The screw rod 1 must be kept clean and free of sawdust, gum, pitch, and other contaminant's for smooth operation. NOTE: If excessive looseness is observed in any other part of the blade elevation mechanism or tilting mechanism, take the complete unit to an authorized service center.
I believe that that model of Powermatic has a lock for the blade angle that also extends and retracts the casters for moving the saw. You may have unlock or change the handle position to allow for blade angle adjustment. You can get a manual or information at the Powermatic website to show you how to change the settings on the saw. Hope that helps.
Protech is out of business so I could not find a user's guide for you.
The knob on the front that you use to raise and lower the blade also adjusts the angle. Depending on your saw, normally the knob releases from raise/lower mode to angle adjustment by either pulling the knob out and moving it or by pushing a lever to release it and then moving the knob.
Hope this helps. If it does, I'd appreciate a 4 thumbs up. Thanks,
There is an adjustment under the table top. It usually is a bolt with a lock nut that allows you to adjust the table to a predetermined angle every time. You can adjust the amount that the table will go by unlocking the lock nut and then turning the bolt the correct direction allowing the table to come to a full 90 degrees. Once you have the table a 90 degrees lock the bolt down with the lock nut. This will aloow you to change the tilt of the table to something other than 90 degrees and then come back to the 90 degrees by turning the adjusting wheel until it bottoms out against the locked doen adjusting bolt.
Here are two links for the parts manual and the owners manual. It is not uncommon for a tool to go slightly out of line with use due to vibration and and movement of the arbor. As for the tool not tilting, it just sounds like the worm screw and gear are off line. this is a pretty quick fix but it requires you to turn your saw upside down to access the set screws. I glanced at the diagram and it looks like the handle for the adjustment is held on by a set pin. you will also be able to access this from inside the cabinet.
When you are facing the saw as if you would be operating, there are two adjustment wheel on the front and right hand sides of the saw cabinet. The front wheel adjusts the blade height, the wheel on the right side of the cabinet adjusts tilt. Each of these wheels are equipped with a locking nut, a smaller wheel in the center. this must be loosened before any adjustments can be made and should be tightened before operation. If there is significant resistance while trying to adjust either of these it may be a result of misaligned gear or excessive buildup of dust and shavings on the gearing.
With the unit unplugged, find the knob which controls the angle.
One of the turn knobs raises and lowers the blade. The other is tied to the degree labled pointer. usually you'll have to pull it out to engage the actual adjustment part. Crank it till the pointer is stopped at the top range where it says 90. To verify, i usually use a 90 degree right angle to make sure it's true 90 degrees.
This model does not have a knob on the side. There is only a locking lever on the front next to a single rotating wheel for height adjustments. To tilt the blade simply twist the locking lever to the left and push the height adjustment wheel to the right. It can be a bit stiff at times to move.
You adjust the handle tension by actually adjusting the t-square itself, changing the relative position it sits from the rect tube mounted to the saw.
This is done by turning the two allen set screws mounted in the angle iron that is welded to the fence. There are a couple of tabs that ride along the inside face of the rect tube when the fence slides from side to side. You'll see that each of these tabs is adjustable, in or out, by slightly turning the allen set screws with an allen wrench. BOTH of these must be adjusted, so that you maintain the fence's 'squareness' to the table.
What I do is line up the edge of the fence with the mitre slot in the saw table, feeling the edge of the fence as it hangs over the edge of the mitre slot, both at the infeed and outfeed end of the slot. It should be perfectly flush at both ends.
By turning the set screws in or out a little, you can adjust the handle tension to the place where you like it (you don't need to force it into position to have it hold firmly; that's too tight). Then check the squareness of the fence by clamping it down along the edge of the mitre jig slot, and see if it's parrallel. If not, you need to adjust one or both screws to make it parrallel, and get the tension right. You may have to go back and forth a few times, but eventually you can dial it in to where it feels just right and the alignment is correct. Think small adjustments.
At the same time, put a little dab of wheel bearing grease or vaseline on the cam of the fence handle where it rubs against that little flap. This will make it easier to engage when the tension is firm and keep it from wearing abrasively.
This fence is a joy to use when it's dialed in. I hope you find this information helpful. Happy woodworking!