Question about Refrigerators

6 Answers

Refrigerator Drawer support pin removal

The front left support pin for one of the lower drawers broke off. It is a round pin about an inch long including the base. I was alble to buy a replacement pin but how do I get the old one out without breaking something?

Posted by on

  • 5 more comments 
  • bramberg Nov 29, 2008

    Whirlpool Model ED25PQ XDN01; serial no. SF1218599

    I need specifics on how to install the new support pin. I thought I had it in ok, but it came out.

    Bob

  • bramberg Nov 29, 2008

    It is not the front left, it is the Front RIGHT

  • bramberg Nov 30, 2008

    Wirlpool Refrigerator Model ED25PQ XDN01; serial no. SF1218599
    The right front support pin for one of the lower drawers has broken off. The base of the pin was left attached to the inside shell of the frig. I removed the base by twisting it out.
    I have purchased a replacement pin but I am not sure how to install it. I thought I had it installed properly but it came out. I need detailed instructions on how to install this drawer support pin.

  • bramberg Nov 30, 2008

    The part I'm trying to replace is:

    Part Number: AP3109339



    It is part #8 on the refrigerator liner diagram and it is the piece without the screw. here is the link




    http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partse...

  • bramberg Nov 30, 2008

    still need help. see above comment

  • bramberg Nov 30, 2008

    The part is on the inside of the frig not the door. No the part does not have a thread. see the link above for a picture of the part. It is the one with the two metal prongs not the one with the screw.

  • bramberg Nov 30, 2008

    When I removed the broken part the other day, I rotated it counter clockwise practically half a turn before it would come out. The metal prongs on the back were bent when it came out.
    I tried installing the part as you suggested, inserting it and turning it 1/4 turn counter clockwise but the metal prongs are not "engaging" the refrigerator liner. The metal prongs on the post have become bent. I have straightened them out but I'm not having any luck getting it to hold. How are these metal pins supposed to hold this part in? I wonder if I didn't damage the mounting hole when I removed the old part? Is there a way to fix it?

×

Ad

6 Answers

  • Level 3:

    An expert who has achieved level 3 by getting 1000 points

    All-Star:

    An expert that got 10 achievements.

    MVP:

    An expert that got 5 achievements.

    Guru:

    An expert who has written 7 tips or uploaded 3 video tips

  • Master
  • 859 Answers

Most of us who are inclined to solve problems like this have backgrounds in mechanics of one sort. I was a Helicopter Aircraft Systems Mechanic. We had some really tricky parts too.

I think you are right in your judgement, that when you removed your old mount, the two metal pins that are bent indicate that they were dragged out of place. These parts are referred to as male and female parts, you probably know this. The male part fits into the female part.

What it is that represents the female mount may not be up and accessible. It may and probably is still locked in the down position. These are often cam mounted so that when you change them out you need to push in with considerable force and then rotate 90degrees to the left.

My guess is that the female end is still in the locked position at 3 o'clock and not 12. How to get to this so you can press it in and rotate is a real conundrum.

In the absence of being able to access the female recepticle and rotage it up to 12, you could mount the new pin to the inside of your refrigerator with an adhesive that comes in two parts, where you mix the two parts of the adhesive and it then has a working life. These are resin based and should adhere at the molecular level to your refrigerator's plastic interior. However, some of these interiors that are now designed to be easily cleaned by wiping have a coating that refuses to allow food to stick to them. This can cause a problem with adhesives too. So, the approach would be to prepare the surface to accept the adhesive by using some fine sandpaper.

Just keep in mind that taking this option to mount using adhesives is going to look wrong to the eye and stand out. And, they may not live up to the stress of their intended purpose.

Otherwise, you may want to consider going to the point of removing the interior siding of the refrigerator and setting the female end of your post lock. You may not need to remove the entire siding to get to this and set it right so you can insert your new post. You may only need to pull the siding away from the insulation so you can access this post recepticle. Just remember to push in and then rotate it up as its most likely on a cam.

Going to the above route will entail a lot of action in your refrigerator, so prepare in advance to have plenty of coolers on hand and plenty of ice to keep your chilled products safe while you work on it.

So, your best advice we can give you at this point it to get a hold of a refrigerator wiz or guru you can hire to do the work for you. Really, that is probably the best advise I can give you if you now know the problem.

Regards,
Worldvet

Posted on Nov 30, 2008

Ad
  • Level 2:

    An expert who has achieved level 2 by getting 100 points

    MVP:

    An expert that got 5 achievements.

    Sergeant:

    An expert that has over 500 points.

    Champion:

    An expert who has answered 200 questions.

  • Expert
  • 291 Answers

The way you do that is with a pair of priers and get hold of it at the base and twist and it will come out ,,, go in the same way / larry
please don't forget to leaving a rating

Posted on Nov 30, 2008

Ad
  • Level 3:

    An expert who has achieved level 3 by getting 1000 points

    All-Star:

    An expert that got 10 achievements.

    MVP:

    An expert that got 5 achievements.

    Vice President:

    An expert whose answer got voted for 100 times.

  • Master
  • 395 Answers

A short turn clock wise from the 9 on a clock to the 12 ( which is the top left corner ). then pull the broke shelf stub straight out. Put the new shelf support in the same way you took the old one out and turn counter clock wise 1/4 or from 12 back to 9 and you should have a tight fit. I hope this helped.

Posted on Nov 30, 2008

  • Level 3:

    An expert who has achieved level 3 by getting 1000 points

    Superstar:

    An expert that got 20 achievements.

    All-Star:

    An expert that got 10 achievements.

    MVP:

    An expert that got 5 achievements.

  • Master
  • 10,515 Answers

Hey, This is the WIRING diagram for ED25PQ XDN01 :-




http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?model_id=248586



Thnx.

Posted on Nov 30, 2008

  • 1 more comment 
  • taran_2005
    taran_2005 Nov 30, 2008
  • taran_2005
    taran_2005 Nov 30, 2008

    After I took detached the fan houseing with the fan attached from the fridge.

    I took off the blade, oiled the base of the saft and let the oil (one drop) run down into the motor for about 3 minutes. Then I put the blade back on, re-mounted the motor and it runs great. This is day 3. I just saved $75 or more.

    Whe you take the motor out, you want to remove the "U" shaped housing. Take out the fan and the blade with the housing. You may be tempted to remove the motor from off the metal housing but don't, take the housing of the fridge and the whole motor comes with it.

  • taran_2005
    taran_2005 Nov 30, 2008

    Install the 2 mounting grommets and the 2 sleeves from the fan motor kit onto the new motor as shown in Figure 2. NOTE: On models with foam-insulated cabinets and special screw grommets ( shown in Figure 1 ) - Do not use the 2 sleeves provided in the kit to mount the motor.
    - Mount push-on fan blade onto the motor

    - Connect wire leads to the new motor

    - Mount the new motor to the liner with the 2 screws provided in the kit. NOTE: Porcelain liner models may require breaking off the ends of the mounting brackets where shown in Figure 2.

    - Plastic liner models do not need the parts in this kit.

    - Make sure that the fan blade spins freely

    - Reinstall the cover panel

×

  • Level 3:

    An expert who has achieved level 3 by getting 1000 points

    Superstar:

    An expert that got 20 achievements.

    All-Star:

    An expert that got 10 achievements.

    MVP:

    An expert that got 5 achievements.

  • Refrigerators Master
  • 4,806 Answers

There can be a few different ways to refit the door hinge

Posted on Nov 30, 2008

  • 2 more comments 
  • Lee Hodgson
    Lee Hodgson Nov 30, 2008

    when you twisted the old one out did it have a thread on it?

  • Lee Hodgson
    Lee Hodgson Nov 30, 2008

    here is the diagram you need:


    kind regards





  • Lee Hodgson
    Lee Hodgson Nov 30, 2008

    If you can't see the diagram properly just right click on it and save image as then you can save it to the desktop and blow it up in your normal picutre viewer

  • Lee Hodgson
    Lee Hodgson Nov 30, 2008

    ok then look at the cabinet diagram if this not the door:

    this should help you

    regards


×

  • Level 3:

    An expert who has achieved level 3 by getting 1000 points

    All-Star:

    An expert that got 10 achievements.

    MVP:

    An expert that got 5 achievements.

    Brigadier General:

    An expert that has over 10,000 points.

  • Master
  • 6,966 Answers

Hi and welcome to FixYa,

Initially, pls post back the brand and exact model. This would allow us to look over the exploded diagram and determine possible ways to install the replacment part.

Just a start, do postback how things turned up or should you need additional information. Good luck and Thank you for using FixYa.

Posted on Nov 29, 2008

  • 2 more comments 
  • Louie  Role
    Louie Role Nov 30, 2008

    Hi again,

    Appreciate the postback. Pls click here and enter "ED25PQ". On the next page, there would be several exploded parts diagrams. Pls try to determine the part name or description and on which diagram it appeared. There are basically 2 ways the part you described could be attached: with a lock screw or snap on lock.

    Cheers.




  • Louie  Role
    Louie Role Nov 30, 2008

    Hi again,

    I am afraid that we have a bit of a problem. It would appear that when you "removed the base by twisting it out.", the mounting hole could have been enlarged and therefore the new shelf stud would not have anything for its lock to latch on. The locks would be the 2 metal tabs below the base. Unfortunately, the solution would call for reaching behind the wall which is impossible due to the construction and put an insert, a washer with smaller diameter for the locks to latch on.

    A workaround would be to install a filler on the enlarged hole. The idea is to reduce the diameter enough for the locks of the shelf stud to latch on to something. The filler could be anything, a small diameter tubing cut horizontally and fitted over the hole as a gasket, water resistant tape, even soft leather cut out as a patch from an old golfing glove. The idea is to reduce the diameter of the hole for the stud's lock to purchase a hold on the other side of the wall.

    Additionally, it might be to your advantage to put some quick dry adhesive, epoxy or superglue under the base that would attach to the wall.


  • Louie  Role
    Louie Role Nov 30, 2008

    Any updates/developments so far?

  • Louie  Role
    Louie Role Dec 04, 2008

    Hi again,



    Any updates or developments so far?





×

1 Suggested Answer

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

Hi,
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of.(from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones)
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
Goodluck!

Posted on Jan 02, 2017

Add Your Answer

Uploading: 0%

my-video-file.mp4

Complete. Click "Add" to insert your video. Add

×

Loading...
Loading...

Related Questions:

1 Answer

Something has slipped behind the bottom drawer, a flimsy cutting board. Can the drawer be removed and how?


The drawer is easily removed. Make sure you switch off the power first and I always unplug just to be sure.
9.1 Drawer Front Removal
9.1.1 Slide open drawer.
9.1.2 Locate draw pin on either side of the tub. (These are white plastic pins, about 1.5cm diameter. You can't miss them.)
9.1.3 Using a sharp pair of long nose pliers or slip jaw pliers grasp the center dividing web of the pin and pull away from the tub to remove the pin. Support the drawer front with your hand while doing this.
Note: The pin web is vertical.
9.1.4 With both pins removed the bottom of the drawer front can now be eased out slightly.
9.1.5 Now carefully pull the drawer front down to allow it to come free from the handle and top locating slots.
9.1.6 Carefully remove the earth wire from the tab on the drawer front. (if it is an integrated model you will also need to unplug the integrated badge from the isolating module)
9.1.7 Refit in reverse manner ensuring the drawer slides are right forward and the pin secures through the hook on the front end of the slide.
Note: When reinserting the pins make sure the dividing web is
vertical.

9.2 Tub Removal
9.2.1 Open the drawer fully.
9.2.2 Depress the right-hand tub clip and push it back about 30mm (1 inch). Repeat for the left-hand side. These clips are on the runners and are usually white plastic.
9.2.3 The tub may now be lifted up off the drawer runners. It's amazing but the drawer simply lifts out.
9.2.4 Slide both runners back into the product.
9.2.5 Refit in reverse manner.

Feb 18, 2015 | Fisher and Paykel Dishwashers

1 Answer

Remove stainless front


Pull the drawer out a little bit and look on the sides just behind the front panel. You'll see a little round plastic piece (about 1/2 or 5/8" diameter) with a plastic rib going through the center. That is the head of a plastic pin that holds the panel in place. Get a long-nosed pliers, grab that rib, and pull the pin straight out. Do the other side. Now pull the front panel down and tilt out the bottom a little. Don't let it drop, there is a ground wire that you have to detach before you can put that panel some place else. Putting the panel back on is more difficult, because the door wants to close as you're trying tp push that panel up and back in place. Stick something in the top of the drawer so it won't close. Sometimes it helps to push the glides on the bottom of the drawer back about and inch or two. You have to look underneath to see how to release the catch for the drawer glides.

Sep 28, 2014 | Fisher and Paykel Dishwashers

2 Answers

Kenmore Refrigerator 596.73503200 deli drawer cover hinge pin on right side broke off. Part #?


I would direct you to this link to find the part number you're looking for. I do not have one of these units to look at so am unsure which specific piece you'll need to replace.
Model 59673503200 KENMORE ELITE KENMORE REFRIGERATOR Parts

Nov 03, 2017 | Refrigerators

1 Answer

How do I turn off the flood switch sensor on a fisher and Patel double drawer dishwasher


Unfortunately there is no way to turn the flood sensor switch off, you need to pull the lower drawer all the way out and check for any water in the base or other items affecting the flood switch, If you have a 601 series you need to pull the 2 round pins out on the front sides of the drawer to enable you to pull the drawer out enough to get to the flood switch, If you have a 603 series you need to push in the 2 locking tabs on the front side of the drawer which will allow you to pull the drawer out enough to check the switch. Make sure you unplug the dishwasher before doing this,

Mar 04, 2012 | Fisher and Paykel Dishwashers

1 Answer

I have a fisher and paykel dd24ph6 model that will not lock. Where is the locking mechanism located?


the way the dish drawer locks is the lid lowers onto the drawer..on the sides of the drawer are motors that lower and lock the lid into place ..to get to them the drawer must be removed,to remove the drawer remove th pins from the side of the drawer,slide down and off the front panel and push and and release the tabs that lock the drawer to the slide rails..then push the slides back slightly and lift off drawer..on the sides connected to support bracket on each side will be a lid motor. It is advisable to replace both at once

Aug 24, 2011 | Fisher and Paykel DS605I Built-in...

1 Answer

Top draw does not seal . have already replaced once but cant remember where to get part or what it is called


Hello,
The most typical problem with your dishwasher is going to the lid seal motors that raise and lower the seal.thegear on it gets stripped and it slips so lid doesn't fully close on the side where motor is bad,their is 2 motors one on left and one on the right if advisable to replace both of them. By pulling the pins on drawer sides and removing front panel,then releasing the tabs on drawer slide the drawer will come out so you can also inspect the seal for rips of tears in the rubber on it but,i found 50 motors to be the problem for every seal thats bad. To replace the motors on the upper drawer the lower drawer must also be removed so the wiring to the upper drawer lid motors can be connected to the control board in the back behind the lower drawer.

Good luck.
Gene

Aug 09, 2011 | Fisher and Paykel 23 in. DD-603SS Built-in...

1 Answer

I need to replace the 3 button control panel which is one piece along the top of the draw many thanks wayne


Hi - this should help you out ..... enjoy.

9.1 Drawer Front Removal

9.1.1 Slide open drawer.

9.1.2 Locate draw pin on either side of the tub.

9.1.3 Using a sharp pair of long nose pliers or slip jaw pliers grasp the center dividing web of the pin and pull away from the tub to remove the pin. Support the drawer front with your hand while doing this. Note: The pin web is vertical.

9.1.4 With both pins removed the bottom of the drawer front can now be eased out slightly.

9.1.5 Now carefully pull the drawer front down to allow it to come free from the handle and top locating slots.

9.1.6 Carefully remove the earth wire from the tab on the drawer front. (if it is an integrated model you will also need to unplug the integrated badge from the isolating module)

9.1.7 Refit in reverse manner ensuring the drawer slides are right forward and the pin secures through the hook on the front end of the slide.

Note: When reinserting the pins make sure the dividing web is vertical.

9.2 Tub Removal

9.2.1 Open the drawer fully.

9.2.2 Depress the right-hand tub clip and push it back about 30mm (1 inch). Repeat for the left-hand side.

9.2.3 The tub may now be lifted up off the drawer runners.

9.2.4 Slide both runners back into the product.
9.2.5 Refit in reverse manner.

Drawer and LCD Display Removal

9.3.1 Remove the drawer front as per instructions in 9.1.

9.3.2 The handle fits onto a lip at the top of the tub and then slides from left to right to lock into place. Push the right-hand end of the handle to the left until it feels free then remove it out towards you.

9.3.3 Disconnect the six wire harness from the electronic controller to the LCD interface.

9.3.4 The handle may now be lifted clear. The LCD display is held in place by a spring tab on one

end and a clip in the centre. Use a small blade screwdriver to carefully release the tab and centre clip as shown. The LCD assembly can now be removed.

9.3.5 The wiring harness can now be unplugged from the LCD.
9.3.6 Refit in reverse manner.

Jul 07, 2011 | Fisher and Paykel 23 in. DD-603SS Built-in...

1 Answer

Is there a way to remove the drawer in the bottom freezer?


Pull the drawer all the way out until it stops. Then lift the front of the freezer drawer (a couple of inches), and pull out further (4-6"). The front will then lower to the floor. Lift the back of the drawer upward and slid the entire drawer forward. You may want to protect your floor. I did the above with the freezer drawer full and scratched my floor a little...

Jun 27, 2010 | Sub-Zero 650 / O Bottom Freezer...

1 Answer

DD603I


there is a round pin on wither side of drawer front, when ithe drawer is opened, witha pair of needle nose pliers grab and remove both of them, the drawer front then will slide down and away.

Mar 23, 2008 | Fisher and Paykel 24 in. DD603H W Built-in...

2 Answers

Sliding drawer in the top refrigerator section


hi i have the 700tc as well,,ok the best way to place the drawer,,,extend the 2 sliders all the way out,,there is one pin at the end of each slider and 1 hole on each side of the drawer lip which lays on the track ,,,the holes on the drawer must fall into the pins otherwise it will not close,,,so place the drawer on top of the slider ,,,what usually happens is the sliders tend to roll back into the housing of the fridge,,,so while the drawer is resting on the sliders reach under the lip of the drawer and pull each slider until the the holes of the drawer falls into the pins,,,when the drawer is seated in the pins it will close smooth,,,hope this helps

Feb 10, 2008 | Sub-Zero 700TC Bottom Freezer Refrigerator

Not finding what you are looking for?
Refrigerators Logo

Related Topics:

255 people viewed this question

Ask a Question

Usually answered in minutes!

Top Refrigerators Experts

Charles T Nevin
Charles T Nevin

Level 3 Expert

4070 Answers

John Tripp
John Tripp

Level 3 Expert

4654 Answers

yadayada
yadayada

Level 3 Expert

76846 Answers

Are you a Refrigerator Expert? Answer questions, earn points and help others

Answer questions

Manuals & User Guides

Loading...