Question about Refrigerators
The front left support pin for one of the lower drawers broke off. It is a round pin about an inch long including the base. I was alble to buy a replacement pin but how do I get the old one out without breaking something?
Most of us who are inclined to solve problems like this have backgrounds in mechanics of one sort. I was a Helicopter Aircraft Systems Mechanic. We had some really tricky parts too.
I think you are right in your judgement, that when you removed your old mount, the two metal pins that are bent indicate that they were dragged out of place. These parts are referred to as male and female parts, you probably know this. The male part fits into the female part.
What it is that represents the female mount may not be up and accessible. It may and probably is still locked in the down position. These are often cam mounted so that when you change them out you need to push in with considerable force and then rotate 90degrees to the left.
My guess is that the female end is still in the locked position at 3 o'clock and not 12. How to get to this so you can press it in and rotate is a real conundrum.
In the absence of being able to access the female recepticle and rotage it up to 12, you could mount the new pin to the inside of your refrigerator with an adhesive that comes in two parts, where you mix the two parts of the adhesive and it then has a working life. These are resin based and should adhere at the molecular level to your refrigerator's plastic interior. However, some of these interiors that are now designed to be easily cleaned by wiping have a coating that refuses to allow food to stick to them. This can cause a problem with adhesives too. So, the approach would be to prepare the surface to accept the adhesive by using some fine sandpaper.
Just keep in mind that taking this option to mount using adhesives is going to look wrong to the eye and stand out. And, they may not live up to the stress of their intended purpose.
Otherwise, you may want to consider going to the point of removing the interior siding of the refrigerator and setting the female end of your post lock. You may not need to remove the entire siding to get to this and set it right so you can insert your new post. You may only need to pull the siding away from the insulation so you can access this post recepticle. Just remember to push in and then rotate it up as its most likely on a cam.
Going to the above route will entail a lot of action in your refrigerator, so prepare in advance to have plenty of coolers on hand and plenty of ice to keep your chilled products safe while you work on it.
So, your best advice we can give you at this point it to get a hold of a refrigerator wiz or guru you can hire to do the work for you. Really, that is probably the best advise I can give you if you now know the problem.
Posted on Nov 30, 2008
The way you do that is with a pair of priers and get hold of it at the base and twist and it will come out ,,, go in the same way / larry
please don't forget to leaving a rating
Posted on Nov 30, 2008
A short turn clock wise from the 9 on a clock to the 12 ( which is the top left corner ). then pull the broke shelf stub straight out. Put the new shelf support in the same way you took the old one out and turn counter clock wise 1/4 or from 12 back to 9 and you should have a tight fit. I hope this helped.
Posted on Nov 30, 2008
Hey, This is the WIRING diagram for ED25PQ XDN01 :-
Posted on Nov 30, 2008
Hi and welcome to FixYa,
Initially, pls post back the brand and exact model. This would allow us to look over the exploded diagram and determine possible ways to install the replacment part.
Just a start, do postback how things turned up or should you need additional information. Good luck and Thank you for using FixYa.
Posted on Nov 29, 2008
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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9.1 Drawer Front Removal
9.1.1 Slide open drawer.
9.1.2 Locate draw pin on either side of the tub.
9.1.3 Using a sharp pair of long nose pliers or slip jaw pliers grasp the center dividing web of the pin and pull away from the tub to remove the pin. Support the drawer front with your hand while doing this. Note: The pin web is vertical.
9.1.4 With both pins removed the bottom of the drawer front can now be eased out slightly.
9.1.5 Now carefully pull the drawer front down to allow it to come free from the handle and top locating slots.
9.1.6 Carefully remove the earth wire from the tab on the drawer front. (if it is an integrated model you will also need to unplug the integrated badge from the isolating module)
9.1.7 Refit in reverse manner ensuring the drawer slides are right forward and the pin secures through the hook on the front end of the slide.
Note: When reinserting the pins make sure the dividing web is vertical.
9.2 Tub Removal
9.2.1 Open the drawer fully.
9.2.2 Depress the right-hand tub clip and push it back about 30mm (1 inch). Repeat for the left-hand side.
9.2.3 The tub may now be lifted up off the drawer runners.
9.2.4 Slide both runners back into the product.
9.2.5 Refit in reverse manner.
Drawer and LCD Display Removal
9.3.1 Remove the drawer front as per instructions in 9.1.
9.3.2 The handle fits onto a lip at the top of the tub and then slides from left to right to lock into place. Push the right-hand end of the handle to the left until it feels free then remove it out towards you.
9.3.3 Disconnect the six wire harness from the electronic controller to the LCD interface.
9.3.4 The handle may now be lifted clear. The LCD display is held in place by a spring tab on one
end and a clip in the centre. Use a small blade screwdriver to carefully release the tab and centre clip as shown. The LCD assembly can now be removed.
9.3.5 The wiring harness can now be unplugged from the LCD.
9.3.6 Refit in reverse manner.
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