Question about Refrigerators

6 Answers

Refrigerator Drawer support pin removal

The front left support pin for one of the lower drawers broke off. It is a round pin about an inch long including the base. I was alble to buy a replacement pin but how do I get the old one out without breaking something?

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  • 5 more comments 
  • bramberg Nov 29, 2008

    Whirlpool Model ED25PQ XDN01; serial no. SF1218599

    I need specifics on how to install the new support pin. I thought I had it in ok, but it came out.

    Bob

  • bramberg Nov 29, 2008

    It is not the front left, it is the Front RIGHT

  • bramberg Nov 30, 2008

    Wirlpool Refrigerator Model ED25PQ XDN01; serial no. SF1218599
    The right front support pin for one of the lower drawers has broken off. The base of the pin was left attached to the inside shell of the frig. I removed the base by twisting it out.
    I have purchased a replacement pin but I am not sure how to install it. I thought I had it installed properly but it came out. I need detailed instructions on how to install this drawer support pin.

  • bramberg Nov 30, 2008

    The part I'm trying to replace is:

    Part Number: AP3109339



    It is part #8 on the refrigerator liner diagram and it is the piece without the screw. here is the link




    http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partse...

  • bramberg Nov 30, 2008

    still need help. see above comment

  • bramberg Nov 30, 2008

    The part is on the inside of the frig not the door. No the part does not have a thread. see the link above for a picture of the part. It is the one with the two metal prongs not the one with the screw.

  • bramberg Nov 30, 2008

    When I removed the broken part the other day, I rotated it counter clockwise practically half a turn before it would come out. The metal prongs on the back were bent when it came out.
    I tried installing the part as you suggested, inserting it and turning it 1/4 turn counter clockwise but the metal prongs are not "engaging" the refrigerator liner. The metal prongs on the post have become bent. I have straightened them out but I'm not having any luck getting it to hold. How are these metal pins supposed to hold this part in? I wonder if I didn't damage the mounting hole when I removed the old part? Is there a way to fix it?

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6 Answers

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Most of us who are inclined to solve problems like this have backgrounds in mechanics of one sort. I was a Helicopter Aircraft Systems Mechanic. We had some really tricky parts too.

I think you are right in your judgement, that when you removed your old mount, the two metal pins that are bent indicate that they were dragged out of place. These parts are referred to as male and female parts, you probably know this. The male part fits into the female part.

What it is that represents the female mount may not be up and accessible. It may and probably is still locked in the down position. These are often cam mounted so that when you change them out you need to push in with considerable force and then rotate 90degrees to the left.

My guess is that the female end is still in the locked position at 3 o'clock and not 12. How to get to this so you can press it in and rotate is a real conundrum.

In the absence of being able to access the female recepticle and rotage it up to 12, you could mount the new pin to the inside of your refrigerator with an adhesive that comes in two parts, where you mix the two parts of the adhesive and it then has a working life. These are resin based and should adhere at the molecular level to your refrigerator's plastic interior. However, some of these interiors that are now designed to be easily cleaned by wiping have a coating that refuses to allow food to stick to them. This can cause a problem with adhesives too. So, the approach would be to prepare the surface to accept the adhesive by using some fine sandpaper.

Just keep in mind that taking this option to mount using adhesives is going to look wrong to the eye and stand out. And, they may not live up to the stress of their intended purpose.

Otherwise, you may want to consider going to the point of removing the interior siding of the refrigerator and setting the female end of your post lock. You may not need to remove the entire siding to get to this and set it right so you can insert your new post. You may only need to pull the siding away from the insulation so you can access this post recepticle. Just remember to push in and then rotate it up as its most likely on a cam.

Going to the above route will entail a lot of action in your refrigerator, so prepare in advance to have plenty of coolers on hand and plenty of ice to keep your chilled products safe while you work on it.

So, your best advice we can give you at this point it to get a hold of a refrigerator wiz or guru you can hire to do the work for you. Really, that is probably the best advise I can give you if you now know the problem.

Regards,
Worldvet

Posted on Nov 30, 2008

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The way you do that is with a pair of priers and get hold of it at the base and twist and it will come out ,,, go in the same way / larry
please don't forget to leaving a rating

Posted on Nov 30, 2008

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A short turn clock wise from the 9 on a clock to the 12 ( which is the top left corner ). then pull the broke shelf stub straight out. Put the new shelf support in the same way you took the old one out and turn counter clock wise 1/4 or from 12 back to 9 and you should have a tight fit. I hope this helped.

Posted on Nov 30, 2008

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Hey, This is the WIRING diagram for ED25PQ XDN01 :-




http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?model_id=248586



Thnx.

Posted on Nov 30, 2008

  • 1 more comment 
  • taran_2005
    taran_2005 Nov 30, 2008
  • taran_2005
    taran_2005 Nov 30, 2008

    After I took detached the fan houseing with the fan attached from the fridge.

    I took off the blade, oiled the base of the saft and let the oil (one drop) run down into the motor for about 3 minutes. Then I put the blade back on, re-mounted the motor and it runs great. This is day 3. I just saved $75 or more.

    Whe you take the motor out, you want to remove the "U" shaped housing. Take out the fan and the blade with the housing. You may be tempted to remove the motor from off the metal housing but don't, take the housing of the fridge and the whole motor comes with it.

  • taran_2005
    taran_2005 Nov 30, 2008

    Install the 2 mounting grommets and the 2 sleeves from the fan motor kit onto the new motor as shown in Figure 2. NOTE: On models with foam-insulated cabinets and special screw grommets ( shown in Figure 1 ) - Do not use the 2 sleeves provided in the kit to mount the motor.
    - Mount push-on fan blade onto the motor

    - Connect wire leads to the new motor

    - Mount the new motor to the liner with the 2 screws provided in the kit. NOTE: Porcelain liner models may require breaking off the ends of the mounting brackets where shown in Figure 2.

    - Plastic liner models do not need the parts in this kit.

    - Make sure that the fan blade spins freely

    - Reinstall the cover panel

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  • 4,806 Answers

There can be a few different ways to refit the door hinge

Posted on Nov 30, 2008

  • 2 more comments 
  • Lee Hodgson
    Lee Hodgson Nov 30, 2008

    when you twisted the old one out did it have a thread on it?

  • Lee Hodgson
    Lee Hodgson Nov 30, 2008

    here is the diagram you need:


    kind regards





  • Lee Hodgson
    Lee Hodgson Nov 30, 2008

    If you can't see the diagram properly just right click on it and save image as then you can save it to the desktop and blow it up in your normal picutre viewer

  • Lee Hodgson
    Lee Hodgson Nov 30, 2008

    ok then look at the cabinet diagram if this not the door:

    this should help you

    regards


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Hi and welcome to FixYa,

Initially, pls post back the brand and exact model. This would allow us to look over the exploded diagram and determine possible ways to install the replacment part.

Just a start, do postback how things turned up or should you need additional information. Good luck and Thank you for using FixYa.

Posted on Nov 29, 2008

  • 2 more comments 
  • Louie  Role
    Louie Role Nov 30, 2008

    Hi again,

    Appreciate the postback. Pls click here and enter "ED25PQ". On the next page, there would be several exploded parts diagrams. Pls try to determine the part name or description and on which diagram it appeared. There are basically 2 ways the part you described could be attached: with a lock screw or snap on lock.

    Cheers.




  • Louie  Role
    Louie Role Nov 30, 2008

    Hi again,

    I am afraid that we have a bit of a problem. It would appear that when you "removed the base by twisting it out.", the mounting hole could have been enlarged and therefore the new shelf stud would not have anything for its lock to latch on. The locks would be the 2 metal tabs below the base. Unfortunately, the solution would call for reaching behind the wall which is impossible due to the construction and put an insert, a washer with smaller diameter for the locks to latch on.

    A workaround would be to install a filler on the enlarged hole. The idea is to reduce the diameter enough for the locks of the shelf stud to latch on to something. The filler could be anything, a small diameter tubing cut horizontally and fitted over the hole as a gasket, water resistant tape, even soft leather cut out as a patch from an old golfing glove. The idea is to reduce the diameter of the hole for the stud's lock to purchase a hold on the other side of the wall.

    Additionally, it might be to your advantage to put some quick dry adhesive, epoxy or superglue under the base that would attach to the wall.


  • Louie  Role
    Louie Role Nov 30, 2008

    Any updates/developments so far?

  • Louie  Role
    Louie Role Dec 04, 2008

    Hi again,



    Any updates or developments so far?





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