An expert who has achieved level 3 by getting 1000 points
An expert that got 10 achievements.
An expert that got 5 achievements.
An expert who has answered 1,000 questions.
Re: I replaced the heating element, OLD ONE CRACKED STILL...
You have to let us know what it is doing, and what it is not doing. Is the new heating element getting red hot? Is the motor running? Did you clean the face of the flame sensor, a little gizmo attached to the firebox?
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Pull off exhaust vent. Clean. Remove back cover. Clean all airways free of lint and debris. Is this electric or gas dryer? If electric, plug back in and run dryer. Is the heating element glow red? Yes, check and make sure that air is now flowing freely out the back of the exhaust vent. No, replace heating element.
Be sure that you have checked the thermal fuse. The part is tested using a multimeter set on Ohms (impedance). Remove the fuse from dryer and read impedance touching the fuse contacts with the two multimeter probes. If impedance is Ohm infinity (open), then the fuse is bad.
If the fuse is OK because tested good or replaced, then the problem is either one of the three thermostats located in the heating group, or the heating element. All parts are tested similarly to what described for the thermal fuse. If any of the parts read open (infinity), then the part is faulty. After finding the defective part remove all the lint from heating assembly and air duct. The lint causes overheating and blows thermostats, fuse or element.
It is most likely that the oven heating element has failed which caused the house fuse to trip.
The replace the heating element will mean taking the back off the oven and removing the old heat element by undoing the fixing screws and the electrical connectors( normally this surrounds the fan assembly).
Fitting the new heat element should then be straight forward.
Remember to disconnect the power to the oven before removing the back.
Propane refrigerators have a gas burner to create the heat for refrigerant circulation. Some propane refrigerators that were used mostly in RV's also had an electric heat element that ran off a power cord or 12 volt battery.
To determine this look at the back of the refrigerator, you will see a gas line that ends in a burner on the lower left side (looking from the back). Just above that about 4 inches will be wires coming out of the box if an electric heat element is used.
Remove exhaust hose and vacuum entire length squeaky clean or purchase new if that is too much trouble. Vacuum inside exhaust port on the back of the dryer as best you can and all other ports like the lint trap and port inside dryer where air flows to the trap before it exits out the exhaust port..
If that doesn't help, leave the exhaust hose off, turn the empty dryer on and check the airflow coming out of the exhaust port. It should be fairly robust & get very warm quickly. If it doesn't and you're Electric your heating element isn't working or almost worn out. Check manual for fuse rest, if available reset and test again. If no fuse the element is shot and needs to be replaced, a fairly easy DIY'er job, Remember, safety first UNPLUG 1st!
If gas, is gas line valve turned on, if yes the igniter is most likely shot and needs to be replaced and another moderate DIY'er project. Again ALWAYS safety 1st, UNPLUG and TURN THE GAS VALVE OFF before replacing. Repeat check and reinstall hose securely after repair.
Most likely, your lower heating element has failed and needs to be replaced.
This is a simple step-by-step procedure...
1. Turn off the power to the oven at the breaker panel. Or slide the oven ahead and reach behind to unplug the power cord.
2. Take out the two screws holding the element bracket in place. These will be on the back wall of the oven. They are usually hex head or phillips screws.
3. Carefully pull the element toward you a little bit until you see the two wires behind it. Unscrew the wire leads and remove the bad heating element.
4. Handle the new element carefully while you attach the wire leads to it with the old screws. Don't stretch the wires any more than you have to.
5. Line up the new element while tucking the wires back in place. Be sure not to pinch the wires between the bracket and the back wall.
6. Fasten the bracket screws, making sure they're tight.
7. Restore power to the appliance and start your oven to check if the new element heats up.
A few things to remember...
You are working with high voltage! Be sure the power is off or the oven is unplugged!
If you find one of the wires has come off the old element, simply reconnect and check your oven. Your old element may work again and you will not need to purchase a new one.
In removing any of the screws mentioned above, note that they may be difficult to lossen due to years of exposure to heat. Don't give up, they will eventually loosen.
Your new element may have some oil or other gunk on it due to the manufacturing process. Once it begins to heat, it may start to smoke. Don't panic! Any residue will eventually burn away and the smoke will cease from then on.
I have the same AEG T57800 dryer. Problem, no heat. Couldn't find a service manual anywhere on the net. Checked for fuses and saw none. Thermostats on heater appeared fine, showing current flow. Replaced heating element 112 54 84 41/8, via local dealer - Respond Services from Electrolux UK in Durham DL5 6ED (£68), still no heat. Called service tech who replaced the PCB - 973916012018008 (£135 + £85 callout charge). Very, Very annoyed at this as the dryer is only 3.5 yrs old.