Question about Kenmore 82822 Electric Dryer

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Motor replacement I have a kenmore 110.82826102 HE3 dryer. The centrifugal switch's contact that sends L2 voltage to the heater element is bad, so I need to replace the motor. Trying to remove the motor, but the fan blade has no hub nut to back it off the motor shaft. I know it's a reverse thread, but how do I get the fan blade off without destroying it. Also, there is a retaining clip on the rear of the motor that holds the rear bearing in it's saddle. Is there another clip on the front of the motor/switch assembly? Thanx in advance for any help you can provide. Please send reply to both and . aloha, Ed Abbot

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There is a half in square drive recess in blower wheel insert half in drive into it ..usually a 7/16 open end wrench will hold motor shaft but if not use adjutable wrench to hold motor shaft at belt end turn blower clockwise ..if still can get loose use service tech method chisel and hammer ..if motor has overheated the heat will almost weld blower wheel to motor shaft the way some parts houses may sell the switch as a separate part

Posted on Nov 25, 2008


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2 Answers

Dryer heats but doesn't completely dry clothes.

See if you could turn the machine and remove the vent hose on the back.
Then, after you are sure it is clear, try a load of clothes with the vent hose blowing out into the air, not hooked to a vent hose pipe through the wall.
Very often, a plugged pipe will cause this behaviour. The pipe could be plugged in the wall or somewhere else.
Be blessed.

Feb 18, 2013 | Dryers

1 Answer

The timer didn't lose ant time off of it and the dryer didn't get warm at all? What is the problem do you think?

Dryer will not run
1. No power--check fuse & power supply
2. Loose wiring--check terminals & wiring
3. Door switch--make certain door closed properly to actuate switch
4. Defective motor---check motor.
5. Defective timer---replace timer

Runs but will not heat
1.loose wiring--check terminals & wiring
2. Defective thermostat--replace thermostat
3.defective centrifugal switch in motor--replace switch (check linkage to motor)
4. Defective timer--replace timer
5. Open heater element---replace heater element
6. Heat switch set to off----set switch for desired heat

Sep 21, 2011 | Kenmore Dryers

1 Answer

Kenmore dryer model # 110-60212990 heater element not working. replaced element, thermal fuse, thermal cutoff

Check high limit thermostat continuity. If ok ,Check for voltage at thermostat side of the heater element.If voltage present timer ok.Most likely centifugal switch at motor.Motor has to be running for element to work.

It's all fixable!

Jul 28, 2011 | Kenmore Dryers

2 Answers

No heat

Sounds like you're pretty good at this. Next you should check the two heat limiter switches that live near the elements. (They're no larger than an average radish.) They should check "closed", or have continuity. (Pull the connectors off first. Reconnect them using contact grease. Important for these and other connectors.) After you've done that, follow the wires to the motor. The reason the heating element wires go to the motor is because there is a switch that resides on the shaft end of the motor where the centrifugal switch is. This centrifugal switch has two purposes: 1) it cuts out the starter winding of the motor after the motor has reached almost full speed and 2) it turns ON the heater coils after the motor has reached almost full speed (for safety). Check this switch for burning/melting, which might not be evident until you remove it. Check continuity by moving the centrifugal collar on the shaft with your finger to simulate a running motor. (Disconnect the heater coil wires from the terminals first. And -- I am assuming you've UNPLUGGED the dryer by now!!) Lastly check for power coming out of your timer. A contact set might be welded or fried. Good luck.

Feb 26, 2010 | Kenmore Dryers

1 Answer

I have a kenmore 90 series dryer and the dryer works but does not heat. I have already checked the heating element, replaced the thermal fuses and thermostat, and am currently at a loss. I checked the...

L1 connects to the heating element through the timer, a thermal cutoff, the operating thermostat, and the hi-limit thermostat. The heating element then connects to L2 through the motor centrifugal switch.also check the block where the cord connects to the dryer and make sure you have correct voltage there,if you have 120 going to motor you could have a bad motor if it's not going to heater,just do what you're doing,read it out with your meter,inspect the wires too,one could have melted,make sure when you read the parts out that you pull one of the wires off,you can get a back feed and it will show continuity,if i can help with anything else let me know

Feb 11, 2010 | Kenmore Dryers

2 Answers

Whirlpool Dryer not heating

The motor has to be running for voltage to exit the motor going to the heater. With the back off the dryer and the motor running you should read 220 volts at the heater if all safetys and thermostats are good.
There is a thermal cut out relay on the heat canister. It must read continuity also.
Remember you must remove at least one wire from each component being tested to get a true open or closed reading. If a wire is left connected you get a false reading.
The heating element could be broken and part of the heater wire touching the canister. This would cause a continuity reading and still no heat.
Finally, yes,the centrifugal switch in the motor could be bad and not sending power to the heater on the red wire.

Oct 18, 2009 | Whirlpool LER4634J Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Kenmore 86980100 dryer no heat


Apr 21, 2008 | Dryers

5 Answers

Kenmore electric dryer won't start. #63841

Normally when a dryer starts to exhibit longer dry times, then suddenly stop working, it is an indication that the Thermal Cut-Out has blown. The TCO acts as a fuse for the heating element circuits. When an overheat condition occurs, normally the hi-limit thermostat will open to shut off the heating element. This is how the dryer regualtes its heat. However, if the hi-limit thermostat malfunctions, the TCO will blow, It is not resettable, and has to be replaced. This also means that the hi-limit thermostat could be suspect and it should also be replaced at the same time. Normally, when you go to replace one or the other they are sold as a set. This still does not rule out the possibility of a bad heating element, either.

However, you said the dryer additionally does not start. With a blown TCO or heating element the dryer will still run, but will not heat. I'll get back to this in a minute...

Now...if your dryer has been having problems drying, the first thing you need to check is the ventilation ducting to ensure that it is not kinked or clogged. Poor air flow is the number one cause of dryer failures. Not to mention it can cause fires due to lint backing up inside the dryer. This could be the "electrical" smell you've experienced. If trapped lint is ending up on the heating element it will smolder and burn. I recommend the ducting be cleaned thoroughly about once per season. That's 4 times per year. If you've never cleaned the ducting, or your dryer is pushed all the way up against the wall causing the ducting to become kinked, you will have air flow problems. One way in determing air flow is to remove the vent hose from the back of the dryer and start the unit (of course, you need a working dryer in order to do this). The air should be forceful and slowly warm up to about 140 degrees. If the air flow is weak, you may have a clog inside the air baffle of the dryer (this is where the lint screen slides into). If the air flow is good, reattach the dryer hose and check at the output of the dryer vent as it exits your home. If the air flow is weak or non-existent then you know you have a clog in the vent line somewhere. Periodic cleaning will go a long way towards preventing future clogs. Dryer vent rule of thumb: The SHORTER and STRAIGHTER the vent line, the BETTER. Everywhere you have a bend or kink is an area where you will create potential collection points for lint.

Now, in determing which component is bad in your dryer. If your dryer has the lint screen on top of the unit, you will need to remove the back panel to get to the heating circuits. If your dryer has the lint screen in the door, you will need to remove the lower kick panel under the door by pushing in on the release tabs with a putty knife. They are located along the front seam about two inches in from each side.

The heating circuit is set up and troubleshot as follows:

Heating Element (located inside the heater box) - Resistance reading should be 9-13 ohms.

Thermal Cut-Out (located on the heater box) - Resistance reading of 0 ohms.

Hi limit Thermostat (located on the heater box closest to the heating element leads) - Resistance reading of 0 ohms.

Operating Thermostat (located on the air baffle) - (May have 4 wires attached to it). Will read 0 ohms across one set of leads, 7 ohms across the other.

*Thermal Fuse (located on the air baffle) - Resistance reading of 0 ohms.

*If the Thermal Fuse blows, this will shut down the entire dryer. This is your likely suspect.

Here's a few things that will cause a dryer not to start at all:

1. Broken Drum Belt - If dryer is equipped with a broken belt relay, this will shut the dryer down.
2. Broken Door Switch - If the door switch is broken, this will shut down the entire dryer as no power is applied to the start switch with the door switch open.
3. Bad Start Switch - If the start switch does not toggle close or stay closed when released, the dryer will not start.
4. Bad Timer - If the timer does not function the dryer will not start.
5. Bad Drive Motor - No Motor, drum does not rotate, heating circuits may or may not function. DOUBLE CHECK the CONNECTOR PLUG on the Drive Motor. I have found situations where this plug came loose for whatever reason and caused the dryer to either shut off completely or work intermittently.
6. Bad A/C Receptacle and/or Connector Plug - If you aren't getting the proper voltage to the dryer, it will not run.

I just threw in those other items to give you some other things to consider. Troubleshooting is always an exact science as symptoms don't always indicate what you think the problem could be. The reason I keyed in on the heating circuitry was the intial symptoms you started with. Longer dry times are usually associated with poor air flow which usually causes something to eventually blow. I hope you find this information helpful. Please post back with any comments that I may assist you further. I hope this isn't confusing to you. Please ask for clarification if it is.

Nov 02, 2007 | Kenmore 63942 Dryer

11 Answers

Kenmore Dryer Model 110

Heating element can be found at amazon, click here and take a look: Amazon com kenmore dryer heating element. I hope this was helpful. Cheers

Oct 13, 2007 | Kenmore 63942 Dryer

2 Answers

Dryer housing gets hot when the dryer is plugged in

if the dryer is gas then a 110 ac volt plug is sufficient. If it is an electric dryer than it would be 220 ac volt wich is a four prong plug, a common with a L1 L2 and ground. If it is in the USA (im in canada) they may if memory serves use common for ground. what ever the drier plug was when first manufactured is what you want to use. It sounds like there is a short to ground (common/nuetral) from the element. when the timer is in the on possition power from one side of the circuit is present. when you start the drier with the start switch it provides contact to the other side of the circuit. check the element and that should be your problem.

Sep 25, 2007 | Dryers

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