Question about Dishwashers

1 Answer

Won't wash but comes on.

I push the ''normal wash'' button and then the ''start''button. Normally, it should then start its cycle. But now it just sits there with the ''wash'' light on and does nothing. No water filling or anything. I can do a reset and the drain pump runs and the then it's back to where it was before. I took the main motor off (it was very clean). I then took the drain pump off and checked it (looked very clean). Water is definitely getting up to the water valve. I performed the ''Service Mode'' tests for the main pump and auxillary pump ( they sounded good). I then performed the Detergent cup, water valve and heater tests from the front panel. Each test, made a clicking noise (like a switch was activated) but I never heard the water valve open or the detergent cup cycle. I'm not sure about the heater but at one point, it was warm. So, I'm pretty sure it's OK. I think this is a board issue (just a gut feeling). Thanks for any suggestions.

Posted by on

  • 7 more comments 
  • mkilloy Nov 24, 2008

    There is definitely water up to the pump but when I did the test for the water valve, all I heard was a clicking noise. Does that tell me the water pump is good? I got the same test results (clicking) for the detergent and heater.

  • mkilloy Nov 24, 2008

    Also, I did an resistance check on the door latches. Both switches tested..OK. My real concern was whether I should have heard water coming into the washer when I did the "water valve" test. No water ever came into the washer.

  • mkilloy Nov 25, 2008

    And should the detergent cup also open when in the "service mode" the test is done for that particular device?

  • mkilloy Nov 25, 2008

    GE GLD6300L15WW

  • mkilloy Nov 29, 2008

    I tested the water valve and it tested (995 ohms). I looked at the special valve in the diagram. It appears to be a special valve associated with the pump that removes the the water from the dishwasher AFTER it fills up. Therefore, I don't think this would be an issue. I also tested the voltage reading (in the AC & DC settings and got no reading), to the wiring harness that hooks to the water valve while I was performing the water valve test in the "Service Mode". I'm not sure I can trust my digital meter (as opposed to an analog meter). Can you tell me, assuming a normal operating dishwasher, should water come into the washer while I am performing the test of the water valve? Thanks

  • mkilloy Nov 30, 2008

    Those are great illustrations but I still don't think I have a faulty valve. I have tested it (995 ohms) which would indicate it's good (I understand it can read good but still be bad). One of the illustrations suggests I can put a 120vAC to the leads of the solenoid and test it (If the valve is good, the valve will open). This washer is only 2 years old. I understand a valve can still fail in that time frame but I have my doubts still. But my main objection to the idea that it's a bad valve is that I have no apparent voltage getting to the solenoid. So, do you think my hooking a 120 line directly to the valve(as one of the illustrations suggests) will cause damage to the valve. I'll be VERY CAREFUL. This should tell me if I really do have a bad valve. Right?

  • mkilloy Dec 01, 2008

    So, you got me thinking. I went back and tested the dishwasher in Service mode again. The heating element definitely warmed up. The Main motor and auxillary motor both ran. The detergent dispenser activated and release the door to dump the detergent. I tried putting my hand on the water pump solenoid to feel it humming or cIicking. Nothing. I took the water valve off and it looked great. I hooked up a 120vAC line and activated the water valve several and it "clicked" everytime. So, I would say that since I don't have voltages up to the water valve but the water valve is OK then I must have a bad control assembly board. Would you agree?

  • mkilloy Dec 01, 2008

    I understand the valve could still be stuck even though the solenoid clicks. I never did test a test of the water level switch. I tested all the components from the front panel of the washer while in the Service Mode. But please answer me this question. Should I get voltage to the legs of the water valve? I get NO voltages. So, regardless of whether I have a faulty valve or not, I have NO voltage at that point. I will test the water level switch which I have not done.

  • mkilloy Dec 04, 2008

    I replaced the main board. Same problem. I also checked the water lever switch for continuity. It also tests OK. I don't know what to do next. I seem to have checked everything. Any suggestions?

×

1 Answer

  • Level 3:

    An expert who has achieved level 3 by getting 1000 points

    Superstar:

    An expert that got 20 achievements.

    All-Star:

    An expert that got 10 achievements.

    MVP:

    An expert that got 5 achievements.

  • Master
  • 19,396 Answers

If anything else is OK, replace the control panel assembly.

Posted on Nov 24, 2008

  • 7 more comments 
  • Ginko
    Ginko Nov 24, 2008

    Check first the door latch sensor, if that is stuck, the machine wont start.

    If there is water coming into the machine (check water supply), door latch sensor is fine, and the pumps are OK, then replace the control panel assembly.

    Parts and schematics here, enter the model number.


  • Ginko
    Ginko Nov 25, 2008

    When the water valve opens, water must flow into the appliance, if this does not happen, there is a solenoid that actuates the water valve.

    Test the solenoid , if this is fine, the water valve is stuck.


  • Ginko
    Ginko Nov 25, 2008

    What is your model?

  • Ginko
    Ginko Nov 25, 2008

    See diagram here :



    Test teh valve and check wirings to he valve,
    test PS259368
    that is the inlet valve, there is also another water valve on your model, check it out: PS2322317



    Check also the motor pump







  • Ginko
    Ginko Nov 30, 2008

    You don't even need to test voltages , to test the water valves, you just test them for continuity, they have a solenoid inside, single or dual that opens a diaphragm.

    Testing voltages you test the control.

    However, apart the solenoid, there is the valve itself, sometimes the solenoid has continuity an gets right voltages, but the valve is still faulty because the diaphragm is stuck inside..

    See


    Appliance411 FAQ: Testing an appliance Water Fill Valve

    Free Dishwasher Repair Guide - Test your dishwasher's water

    If you rule out all other possibilities, there is water in the line, and one of the two valves is not opening , replace the valve.




  • Ginko
    Ginko Nov 30, 2008

    Energizing the valve is an operation that the repairman ordinarily does, but it is a risky operation that should not be performed by the home user.

    Another way to see if the solenoid does a kind of clicking sound and vibration if yopu feel the vibration,the solenoid has a plug-up.

    If the solenoid reads voltage across the coil terminals, then the solenoid is stuck.

    The operations above require working with live power, and should be done observing strictly safety rules, and by a qualified repairman.



  • Ginko
    Ginko Dec 01, 2008

    No, you probably have a faulty valve, with the valve stuck closed, like the solenoid is evergising the valve continuously, if water never passes through the valve, that means the valve is stuck closed.

    That is the first think I told you.

    I am not there to check this, but a repairman normally would change the $40/$50 valve in your case, and then if your appliance falls in that one case on 1000 where a weird control is giving 120vac to the valve all the time, well proceed to replace the panel that is more expensive and far less frequently the problem.

    If you have 120 VAC all the time on the valve, when cycling, then the control is faulty.Sure this is not a test that should be performed by a user level.

    Replace the valve or call a technician to test voltages out while cycle is operating, majority of repairmen would not even do this. They would replace the valve straight away.

    Naturally before this you need to have tested motor, supplies, water level switch, etc. That had already been discussed.






  • Ginko
    Ginko Dec 01, 2008

    What I mean is, you still have not tested that the valve opens, when it clicks ojn powering the solenoid coles the valve, you are testing that the valve is closing.

    This problem may also be due to a faulty water level switch, you told me that was tested.


    No, you probably have a faulty valve, with the valve stuck closed, (or a faulty membrane/water level switch) like
    the solenoid is evergising the valve continuously, if water never
    passes through the valve, that means the valve is stuck closed.

    That is the first think I told you.

    I
    am not there to check this, but a repairman normally would change the
    $40/$50 valve in your case, and then if your appliance falls in that
    one case on 1000 where a weird control is giving 120vac to the valve
    all the time, well proceed to replace the panel that is more expensive
    and far less frequently the problem.

    If you have 120 VAC all the
    time on the valve, when cycling, then the control is faulty.Sure this
    is not a test that should be performed by a user level.

    Replace
    the valve or call a technician to test voltages out while cycle is
    operating, majority of repairmen would not even do this. They would
    replace the valve straight away.

    Naturally before this you need to have tested motor, supplies, water level switch, etc. That had already been discussed.


  • Ginko
    Ginko Dec 01, 2008

    If you get no voltages to the valve, and the solenoid does not get powered at all, then check water level switch/membrane switch., and test the control assembly.

    Regarding the control assembly a thing that a repairer usually does before doing more tests, is checking if you see any chipped or bulged component, or burned areas on control board, in this case replace board, or replace the faulty component.


×

1 Suggested Answer

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

Hi,
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
goodluck!

Posted on Jan 02, 2017

Add Your Answer

Uploading: 0%

my-video-file.mp4

Complete. Click "Add" to insert your video. Add

×

Loading...
Loading...

Related Questions:

1 Answer

My washing machine was switched off mid cycle. Now the start/pause, ready, wash & spin/end buttons are lit up. I have switched it on and off from the mains. No change. It is a beko wm6123w. Please help


Try looking in the troubleshooting section of the products user guide/instruction manual, if you have lost this, you can normally download a copy from the manufacturers (beko) website, this is normally located in the support section of the websites.

have you tried pressing the start/stop button as the cycle maybe simply paused.

WM6123 Washing Machines Beko

Jul 04, 2014 | Washing Machines

1 Answer

Won't start


What is the model number of the unit?

Nov 01, 2012 | Washing Machines

1 Answer

Kenmore Ultra Wash 665 dishwasher: start button not lighing


It sounds like you have a bad control console, and the problem is that your START button (the most critical one!) is bad. You can't replace just that button or key; you have to replace the entire control console.

Jul 02, 2012 | Kenmore Dishwashers

1 Answer

Hello, I have the Asko W6761 and all of a sudden it doesn't run the cycle anymore. It starts normally, i.e. pumps water into it, but then it doesn't start to wash..any idea what this could be? After a few...


Hello, my W6761 becomes the same. When it happens, you can clear the problem by "soft ware reset". Following is the procedure:
1. Power it on
2. Push Start/Stop buttom 5 times
3. Push "Enter", ">", "<", "Menu" buttons (from right to left)
4. Again, push "Enter", ">", "<", "Menu" buttons
5. Wait for 30 seconds that the above soft ware cycle resets the internal status
6. Toggle the power switch
7. You need to execute above "soft ware reset" within 15 seconds

Start washing and check to see if above reset the problem.
If it does not begin to work, repeat above "soft ware reset" cycle until it begins to work.
My W6761 once needed to repeat above cycle 7 times to solve the problem.
W6761 seems to be weak at high ambient temperature.

Tsunett

Oct 26, 2010 | Asko W6761 Front Load Washer

1 Answer

I used the "rinse only" cycle on the dishwasher a little while ago. I've never used this cycle before. After dinner I tried to start the dishwasher, but no other buttons on the panel respond except the...


Try un-plugging the dishwasher (check for cord under the sink) or turn off the breaker to it to re-set the control board. If this does not resolve your issue you may have a defective key panel.

Jun 18, 2010 | Dishwashers

1 Answer

I have a gsd5610 and my drying button is blinking.the unit will not start


Someone opened your DW during last washing cycle. The Machine paused but no-one pushed the button to resume the cycle. It's still waiting for you to tell it to finish last cycle. Press your PAUSE/Cancel button 'til the light goes off. Then use your machine as you normally would.

Hope this info was helpful to you. Good Luck! :-)

Jan 31, 2010 | GE 24 in. GSD5930 Built-in Dishwasher

1 Answer

When i push the start button,it doesn't light up and start. The normal cycle and the other cycles lights work but it won't start. If i push hi-temp wash and heated dry several times, all lights will come...


i would replace the key pad it sounds like since everything else works.. so you hit the normal wash and start the dishwasher sits there for a min or two and turns off.. Its not recognising the start button

Sep 03, 2009 | Dishwashers

Not finding what you are looking for?
Dishwashers Logo

Related Topics:

154 people viewed this question

Ask a Question

Usually answered in minutes!

Top Dishwashers Experts

Mike Cairns
Mike Cairns

Level 3 Expert

3053 Answers

yadayada
yadayada

Level 3 Expert

70365 Answers

Brad Brown

Level 3 Expert

15111 Answers

Are you a Dishwasher Expert? Answer questions, earn points and help others

Answer questions

Manuals & User Guides

Loading...