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if it fails to stop running only at the rinse part of the cycle it is probably in the timer as the solenoid valve has to cut the water off when the washer fills for the wash cycle too. fills for wash cycle and cuts off water, washes and drains, refills for rinse cycle and water just keeps running? does this every time you run it? that's in the timer. bad solenoid (water inlet valve) would keep running even on wash fill up. hope this helps.
when the washer goes into rinse cycle it only uses cold water so clothes don't rinkle,so most likey you have a problem with your cold water,do this,shut down the water to the washer,remove the water lines from the back of washer and mark them so you know how they came off,stick the hoses into the washer if they reach or a bucket,turn on the cold water to see if water is coming out of hose,if water does come out of hose good then stick the cold water hose back on the washer and run it only on cold,if it doesn't fill then you know you have a problem with the water valve on the washer and it's not the house water valve that's bad,and usually if you have a problem with the washer water valve it will just hum and no water will enter the washer so if you hear a humming sound it will be the water valve.tried looking up the model number you sent but it doesn't come up on the parts lookup
see the next steps and use the common sense: God bless you When the cycle doesn't advance, it's probably the timer or a cold-water supply problem:It's
the timer, if your washing machine fills with water and begins
agitating, but the timer never advances--or if the washer is in a spin
cycle and the timer won't advance. Then you need to replace the timer. It
may be a cold-water supply problem, if the washing machine fills with
water, agitates, drains, and spins, but then doesn't fill with rinse
water. See There's no cold water.
Turn off the water to the machine. Disconnect the cold water hose from the back of the machine and put it in a large bucket. Turn on the water to see if you get full-pressure cold water from the hose. If not, the shut-off valve or other plumbing has a problem.
If you do get cold water from the hose, check the strainer inside the hose fitting on the back of the washer. Clean it if it is clogged. If you still don't get cold water in the machine, you have a problem with either the solenoid valve or the cold water fill contacts in the timer (the timer won't start until the tub is up to the selected level, but if the valve isn't opening or the supply line is otherwise blocked, the machine will never fill). Sometimes in this case you can hear the solenoid valve humming (normally the sound is masked by the running water).
If the problem is a clogged strainer, clean out the hot water strainer also.
I find I get better wash results with warm water (runs both hot and cold for the wash cycle). The soap is more active than in cold water, so I don't need quite so much, and the machine doesn't take as long to finish a cycle since it fills faster. Of course, the cold water has to be running to get the energy savings compared to hot only.
Probably one of the water cut off solenoids not shutting off. Do you use both hot AND cold water? Try using only cold water first. If that works, maybe hot water solenoid is faulty. Next, connect cold water to the HOT inlet, and try it again. This means you have now tried each of the solenoids, and maybe identified which one is faulty (assuming thats the problem!). If water wont cut off after trying this, the problem will be with whatever level sensing device it has, but I am not familiar with the model you have, so cant help there. Good luck.
Water-inlet valve Water-level switch Water-inlet valve
A defect in the water-inlet valve may mean that it's no longer able to shut off completely when the electricity has been turned off to it. If this occurs, the valve may leak and drip water into the clothes tub. In time, the water may accumulate substantially. If this happens, you need to replace the valve.
A defect--or an obstruction--in the water-level switch may mean that it can't tell the water to shut off. So the machine overflows. This switch senses the water level in the clothes tub. It's usually a diaphragm device with a small, clear tube attached between the switch and the bottom of the washer's outer tub. As the water level in the tub increases, the pressure on the air in the tube increases. When the pressure reaches a certain level, it activates the switch, shuts off the water, and signals the timer to begin the agitate cycle. You can either clear any obstruction in the tube or replace the water-level switch.
The water-level switch regulates your washer's fill volume. This switch is usually a diaphragm device with a small, clear tube attached between the switch and the bottom of the washer's outer tub. As the water level in the tub increases, the pressure on the air in the tube increases. When the pressure reaches a certain level, it activates the switch, shuts off the water, and signals the timer to begin the agitate cycle. If the switch is defective, it may prematurely signal the water to shut off. If so, you probably need to replace the water-level switch.
The water temperature is incorrect
The temperature of the incoming water determines the temperature of the water in your washer. You get either hot, cold, or a mix of the hot and cold water that's currently available to the machine. So if the cold water that enters the machine is very cold--or if the hot water entering the machine is very hot--the warm water is affected.
If you live in a Northern climate, unless you adjust the hot and cold water taps that supply water to your washer, the warm water supplied to your washer is usually hotter during the summer months and colder during the winter months.