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Re: ignitor doesn't spark,want to change but don't want...
The spark ignition may be to far to spark, or the ignition is dirty where are the spark hits, which is the pilot, it works like a spark plug in your car, you can alsofallow the wire to where are connets it may be lose.
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you can't manually light the oven with a match anymore,you have an electronic ignition in the oven or an ignitor part number 5303935066 and it's around 60 dollars.you have to remove the racks,remove the floor of the oven and then remove the cover and you'll see the ignitor in the back screwed to the tube usually with two 5/16 inch screws. set the oven to bake on 350,if the ignitor glows but doesn't light in 40 seconds it's bad,if it doesn't light at all you can unplug the ignitor and check it with a meter for continuity but most likely you have a bad ignitor.wet a paper towel and wet the two screws,they will come out easier,you can't use wd or anything like that because it will smell when you turn the oven on so use water, if you can see where the disconnect is to unplug the ignitor unplug it or when you get the screws out cut the two wires close to the ignitor,the new ignitor comes with ceramic wire nuts so you can connect the two wires you just cut to the new ignitor,the wires on the new ignitor will be long,you can screw the new ignitor on,leave around 6 inches of wire on the new ignitor so the wire connectors will be away from the tube and not up near the floor and if you have the ignitor screwed on you can see how long to make the wires,cut the wires and strip the ends on the old and new wires and wire nut them together.then turn it on to bake,when the ignitor starts to glow it sholud lite the flame in less than 40 seconds.hope this helps you out.one more thing don't touch the piece of the ignitor that's inside the metal bracket,they break very easy.good luck and have a great holiday.
1) the switch that supplies power to the spark module when the burner is turned on is bad...its located on the shaft of the burner valve thier is one switch for each knob so counting the oven and the burners their is 5 (the oven is different from the surface burners) to check those switches what needs to be done is remove the knobs then the face panel so ya can get to the knobs.
No is where is gets a bit complcated if ya dont follow all procedures....the knob must turned on to check so gas will be flowing and ya must light the gas using a match or raw gas will eneter the kitchen...or if possible temporarly turn off gas supply to the unit.also POWER MUST BE DISCONNECTED and then with power off and the burner lit manually once turned on ya would need to check each switch to have continuity,if any of the switches does not have continuity when measured with a ohm meter that switch will be bad
2) the igniter is cracked so power is coming from spark module yet since its cracked power is jumping out before it gets the where it lights the burners.
there isn't a pilot in it,it has an electronic spark module in it.what problem are you having?when you turn it to lite it you'll hear a clicking sound,that's the sparking that lites the gas just like you're gas grill.if you want to remove the top you have to remove the two phillips screws out of each burner head,sometimes they don't come out and you have to drill them out,if the burner isn't shutting off the gas valve could be broke or the knob could be broke,if it's clicking just unplug it and you can lite the top burners with a match or bbq clicker to lite them until you get it fixed depending on what problem you are having.if the gas won't shut off by turning the knob you'll have to shut down the gas at the valve that feeds the stove.but like i said if you want to lift the top you have to remove all the screws in the burner heads.hope this helps you out.http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/part-model/Frigidaire-Parts/Range-Parts/Model-FGF366DCB/1428/0124002?pathTaken=&prst=0&shdMod=FGF366DCB go to this site and you can look up your machine.
Do you mean it won't match light or the ignitor won't spark and light the burners? Or both?
If it won't match light or the ignitor sparks, but the burners don't light, that means you're not getting gas to the burners.
Check to the tank valve and make sure it's turned ON. Also, make sure that there's gas in the tank. If both of those check out as OK, turn the gas tank valve OFF. Disconnect the hose from the tank and wait 5 minutes. Reconnect the hose to the tank and turn the tank valve ON VERY, VERY SLOWLY (Slow motion, slow). Once the valve is fully open, light the burner farthest from the tank first and turn it to HIGH. Did the burner light and the flame height looks correct? If so, light the remaining burners following the same procedure. Now, are they all lit and the flames heights look correct? If so, you solve the problem. Just remember to always open the tank valve very, very slowly.
if the burners failed to light. Remove and clean all the burners, as well as the venturi valve on the open of each burner. Spiders like to build nest in the venturi valves.
if cleaning the burners did not solve the problem, you will need to replace the grill's hose/regulator assembly. You can find it in any home center or hardware store that sells gas grills and accessories, for about $30.00. Take you old one with you for comparison purposes.
Hope this helped you troubleshoot and solve the problem. Please be kind enough to let me know. Thanks and Happy grilling!!
You will need to replace the spark module if you don't hear any clicking, or there is no spark present when trying to ignite the gas. To test the Spark Module: When properly operating, the spark module repeatedly produces a spark at the ignitor accompanied by a sharp snapping sound.
Turn off gas and power supply to unit.
Check wiring diagram to verify all terminals and wire connections are correct and tight with no cuts in the wiring.
Prepare to measure voltage on spark module from terminal L to N.
Turn power supply back on.
Turn top burner to LITE position.
If no voltage is present on the meter, this will indicate the electrical circuit is interrupted before the spark module
If voltage is present, then check ignitor.
If ignitors are ok; then replace spark module.
To access the Spark Module:
Turn off electrical power and gas to the range.
Disconnect gas and power from unit.
Remove screws securing top surface burners.
Remove surface burner and disconnect spark ignitor wire from surface burner.
Hi, when any of the knobs is turned to the light position, all burners will spark. That being said, if one or more of the knobs is not switching the spark module, the problem is the switch mounted on the shaft of that burner valve. You need to replace the defective switch or you could turn on one of the good burners (to make the clicking occur) and then light the burner you really want.
it is strange that you have no gas and no spark! if you held a match to the burner and turned the burner valve on it would lite di spite a failed ignitor,but for it not to lite, the burner valve[its what the knob attaches too] would have to be blocked[thats rare]or ........i got it .....the knob is broken.thats the only thing the burner valve and the spark ignitor have in common.try a knob from another burner................again.you have spark,because others are working.spark on troubled burner would work if valve blocked at orifice outlet,and if spark failed you would still get gas they work independent of each other,[but in unison].thats why im thinking knob.its the item that works both .when you turn the knob it opens the gas valve and as the gas valve rotates by turning the knob it activates or turns the spark switch so it closes the curcit allowing the electricty to the spark moduel.hey i hope that helps a little. God bless ,tom