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Part number 8 is the thermostat on the diagram.If the unit is not getting hot, you can use an Ohm Meter to check for continuity.If the thermostat reads open or no connection, the unit is bad. If you do not have an Ohm Meter you can temporarily tape the connection on one of the thermostats leads to the other to see if it starts to warm up. I would suggest you use electrical tape and perform this operation with the unit unplugged then plug the unit back in order to test it.Do not run the dryer for more than a few minutes, or you may have to call the fire department. If it warms up after a few minutes the thermostat is defective and needs to be replaced.
that isn't the model number,it will start with 110. or 417.send the full model number and i can look up your dryer,most likely it's the even heat board or the motor relay but without the model number i can't look it up for you,these parts are in the top console,call the parts store give them the model number and they'll give you the right part or send it to me,let me know what you find
This is a common problem. Dryer timers are advanced by a motor that turns gears and moves the dial (and internal switching) forward. The timer needs to be repaired or replaced. More than likely the latter since most timers are riveted together and cannot be repaired (unless you're someone who can put a geared jigsaw puzzle back together without any instructions since they normally fall to pieces when opened). I have tried to repair some timers and have been marginally successful, but to have a piece of mind, order the part, have it replaced (wire for wire when the unit is unplugged from the wall). If the timers look different, it is still possible that they gave you the correct timer. Verify that the new and the old timers have the same letter and number markings on each of the wires.
It is best to label the wires as you remove them from the old timer with a piece of tape and a sharp pointed marker. That way there is no question which wire is which.
disconnect power and remove lid. Test the door switch w a volt meter do so opening and closing the door not pushing switch if circuit stays open try pushing switch with finger. If pushing closes circuit then adjust switch.If circuit stays open replace switch. If switch operates with no problems then it is the motor. Check all connections and vacuum lint from motor How old is this dryer?
You have a broken belt. This dryer is complimacated but here goes.Remove the console screwsand flip the control panel upwards simular to what they do on washers. Remove the 3 screw in the rear that hold the top and get the top off. Pop the bottom panel and back off the screws holding the front on then remove the screws from inside the top. You can get the front off now. Get the drum out and clean out the dryer. Oil all 4 wheels and idler. You will note the micro switch below the idler. that stops the drum from turning when the belt breaks. You will be a pro if you can fix this one.
remove end caps on console by pulling top part forward remove the screws under each end of console and roll console back AFTER UNPLUGGING POWER under console next to timer is a control bd to right are 2 black relays 1 with blue wires 1 with red try switching the relays if dryer stays running replace relay if not most likely the control bd especially if you see burnt spots on bd
replace the motor, as you are holding in the start button you are making the dryer run in the start winding of the motor, it is designed to only stay in this winding untill the centrifigual switch on the motor automaticaily switches it to the run winding, when the motor switch knows that it is using the run winding it closes the motor switch contact for the heater to come on, replace the motor