Snapped off flash; how to remove flash mount from camera body?
I accidentally sat on my camera, and broke off the flash at the base. I am left with a piece of the mount still attached to the camera body. How can I remove this broken piece of the flash, to leave behind just the camera body? Thanks
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therw should be 2wires the black or blue is earth this goes to the body or any think metal on the car the flasher unit on cars are usually under the dash someware put the inducator on and listen under the dash u should here it
Open the hood and locate the bulb which is in the rear of the headlamp body.
Bend back and lift up on the two black tabs retaining while holding the lamp to the van.
Disengage the electrical connection by grasping the wires and snapping the connector rearward.
Remove the bulb retaining ring by rotating it counterclockwise (when viewed from the rear) about 1/8 of a turn and sliding the ring off the base.
Remove the bulb by pulling it straight back out
Carefully pull the halogen headlight bulb from its socket. If applicable, release the retaining clip
Insert the bulb into the socket with the flat side of the base facing forward. Turn the base slightly to the left or right, if necessary to align grooves in the forward part of the base with the locating tabs inside the socket.
When the tabs are aligned, push the bulb into the socket until the mounting face on the base contacts the rear face of the socket.
Bulbs No. 9004 and 9007 are similar, but not interchangeable.
Install the retaining ring and rotate it clockwise. A stop will be felt when the ring is full engaged.
Engage the electrical connector by pushing it on until it snaps and locks into position.
Install the lamp in the grille and engage the two black locking tabs.
OK IT IS EASIER THAN IT APPEARS TO BE(DONT GET SCARED)#1 REMOVE BATTERIES AND MEMORY CARD AND STRAP(if you have one)#2REMOVE ALL THE SCREWS AROUND THE CAMERA(you will see 3 screws around the tri-pod mounting hole DONT REMOVE THE LONE SCREW THAT IS CLOSER TO THE LENS(AS IT IS NOT HOLDING ANYTHING BUT THE TRIPOD INSERT AND LEAVING IT IN WILL MAKE IT EASIER TO SNAP EVERYTYHING BACK TOGETHER.#3CARFULLY AND EVENLY PRY ON THE BODY TO REMOVE THE SCREEN SIDE.#4 NOW YOU WILL BE ABLE TO SEE THE SMALL CLIPS THAT HOLD THE LENS SIDE OF THE BODY CARFULLY SEPERATE FRONT BODY (* this will enable you to see the large head on the battery pin.) #5 WITH A THIN NEEDLE NOSE PLIERS PULL THE PIN OUT #6 LAY THE NEW COVER DOWN AS IF IT WAS CLOSED AND INSERT THE PIN BACK IN.#7 BEFORE YOU SNAP THE FRONT BOBY BACK IN BE SURE TO PUT THAT TINY RUBBER BATTERY PULL TAB BACK IN THEN CAREFULLY SNAP THE FRONT COVER INTO THE CHROME AND THEN THE BACK COVER. PUT SCREWS BACK AND YOUR DONE.
I have the C875 - and had the same problem. It was out of warranty so I took it apart and found that the flex print wiring between the flash electronics and the flash unit was bad. It has 4 wire runs and at least one of them was broken. I cut the flex out and soldered in 4 fine insulated wires in its place. The flash works fine now. The hardest chore is taking the camera apart.
Warning: Wear rubber gloves since high voltage is stored in the flash capacitor even with the batteries out. I got zapped several times.
1) Remove all screws on the left side, right side, and bottom (including 2 inside the SD card door). Remove any SD card.
2) Remove the lanyard attachment fitting and then front and back covers.
3) Remove screws holding the metal center band in place. I recall there's a hidden one that's a long reach inside to remove.
4) Bend the band down to clear the tripod mounting hole and slide it off toward the front. Watch out for the fine speaker wires which will tether the band to the camera. I broke one and had to resolder it during reassembly.
5) You will see the orange colored flex leading to the flash. Snap out the flash.
6) At this point you could check the continuity of each wire to confirm the problem.
7) Cut/strip 4 wires to match the lengths of the runs. Use very fine insulated wires - 30AWG or so. Thicker wire might not fit.
8) Note the wire routing. Cut out and desolder the old flex print.
9) Solder in the new wires
10) Snap the flash back in place and dress the wires like the old flex print.
11 Reassemble. You can test it once you put the metal band back in place.
Ther C875 is a great pocket camera. One very much worth fixing.
There are three parts to a T87F thermostat. Outer ring, thermostat body, and base mount. Remove the snap on ring that goes around the dial. Remove three screws from the thermostat that mount it to its base. Remove the thermostat. Disconnect and record what screws each wire attaches to. Remove the screws holding the base to the wall.
Hello, after breaking mine this morning I was able to fix the flash so It can fire from the hotshoe.
Any automatic TTL features will still not work however atleast you will be able too fire in auto, and manual modes.
I simply opened the flash by taking off the hotshoe, and then swiveling the flash head 90 degrees to expose the four screws there. You need only remove the two screws from the front side of the unit.
Open the battery door and gently pull away the front case (Be careful there are several delicate ribbon cables that you do not want to snap. From here you can either unscrew all the ribon cables to free yourself room to solder or try and dodge them.
You should now be able to see the rear side of the PC sync socket. There is a blue wire that joins the outer edge of the socket - this is ground. Solder onto this point and join onto the top left circle of the PCB board of the hotshoe. (Opposite corner from where the ribbon cable attatches) There are copper circles exposed on the pcb for easy soldering.
Next, return to the rear of the PC sync socket and note the orange wire coming from the centre pin. Solder a wire to this point, and then down to the hotshoe PCB and to the circle that joins to the centre pin of the hotshoe. (Trace the circuit paths)
Sorry I did this about 30mins ago and I'm remembering this out of my head.