Question about GE GSH25JSRSS Stainless Steel Side by Side Refrigerator
I have a commerical beverages reach-in problem. It seems like the temperature increases to 87 degree on saturaday.
Please help. How do i get it down to 38-41 degree?
Before replacing the refrigerator's temperature controls, you should do some basic troubleshooting to make sure the problem stems from a defective control and not some other problem. The most obvious thing to check is that the refrigerator is plugged in and receiving power from the outlet. If it is running, but not cooling, it could be due to dirty condenser coils or a defective door seal. Once the coils are clean and the door seal has been checked, you can be pretty confident that the problem is the temperature controls.
There are usually two control knobs, one that controls the temperature of the freezer and one that controls the refrigerator. Although they appear to be independent controls, it is important to understand that the cold air comes solely from the freezer area into the refrigerator compartment. The freezer control determines how much cold air the condenser produces while the refrigerator control adjusts the flow of cold air from the freezer to the refrigerator compartment. If there is no cold air on either side, it is probably the freezer control that is at fault. The procedure to replace the control switch is the same for the refrigerator control and for the freezer control.
window.google_render_ad(); Even though we have gone through this troubleshooting, it is still a good idea to test the control mechanism before replacing it. You will need a multitester and possibly needle-nose pliers and a screwdriver for the testing. First, unplug the refrigerator so you don't get shocked. Then, remove the temperature control's dial and/or housing. The dial will just pull straight off, but the housing may have screws holding it in place. After removing the housing, just let it hang by its wires. There should be two wires attached to the control. Label them before disconnecting so it is easier to put back together. Remove the wires by pulling on the slip-on connectors, not the wires themselves. Needle-nose pliers may be needed to remove these connectors from the terminals, especially if the refrigerator is old. Set the ohms setting on your multitester to X1 and attach one probe to each terminal. Turn the temperature control to off or to the warmest setting if there is no off position. The multitester should give you a reading of infinity if the control is on off and a reading of near infinity if there is no off position. Then turn the control to the coldest setting and retest. Now, the multitester should give you a reading of zero. If both of these tests are not passed, the control needs to be replaced. You already have the dial part of the temperature control disassembled, but there is also a temperature probe attached to it. Remove all fasteners holding on the existing probe and take note of the path of the probe. Install the new temperature probe along the same path as the original. Do not bend at a sharp angle and try to avoid bending more than necessary so the probe does not get damaged. Attach the refrigerator's wires to the new temperature, replacing the connectors if corroded. Replace the switch and any necessary housing screws you removed earlier. Plug in the refrigerator and set the temperature control to the midpoint setting. The refrigerator should start cooling down within one to two hours.
Posted on Nov 24, 2008
Try by defrosting it all and remove what store inside. after that start it again and see if it the same problem happening.
thank you for using fixya
Posted on Nov 24, 2008
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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The beverage center and wine cellars have a temperature display for each zone. 12 volts
AC is supplied to the display board from a transformer in the unit compartment. The displays are only temperature displays and have nothing to do with any cooling function. A thermistor is used to sense temperature for each zone. The thermistor for the bottom zone is located inside the lower portion of the separator. The thermistor for the top zone on the wine cellar, (mid zone on beverage
center), is located in the upper portion of the separator. The thermistor for the beverage center upper zone is located on the inside of the 2-piece evaporator cover. It is on the right-hand side.
The mid temperature for the bottom zones on either unit are 60? Fahrenheit plus or minus 5 degrees. The mid temperature for the mid zone on the beverage center and the top zone
on the wine cellar is 45? Fahrenheit plus or minus 5 degrees. The mid temperature for the
top zone on the beverage center is 38? Fahrenheit plus or minus 5 degrees. I think at tis time you should check each section with a pocket size digital thermometer to cofirm tha the mechanical thermostat is within calibration. Click Here=> 4344690 Temperature Control
Click here for a=> KUWA244PBS Beverage Center Wiring Diagram
I believe the problem may be in the PCB transformer shown at the bottom right corner of the wiring diagram. It is possible o change the transformer but I have not been able to find the board that powers the LED temperature readouts. If needed let me know and I will call Whirlpool mfor you, Thanks, Sea Breeze
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