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Most newer freezers have self defrosting. But it will not thaw out the food at all. For it to thaw completely in 1 day, the compressor did not come on at all. I would first check the fuse or circuit breaker in your home. Many different issues could cause the same result of the freezer not getting cold at all. Defective thermostat, defective compressor, refrigerant leak or loose wiring at connection points. It could possibly be stuck in the defrost mode too.
With the defrost timer being replaced already it sounds as if the repairman is not looking at the real problem. Unit works for 2 days then things start thawing. Hint Hint... it is not defrosting. There is a heating element inside the freezer section attached underneath the internal tubing that melts the ice every 6 to 8 hours via the defrost timer depending on the defrost timer installed. To prove that it is not defrosting..... just unplug the unit and place a stand fan blowing into the freezer for about 90 minutes. I would bet that once you plug it back in it wil work for 2 days and the problem once again repeats. With 2 calls on the same unit and you still have the same problem I would be calling the service people back and demand they fully troubleshoot the defrosting element and thermostat. Personally this is an unstatisfactory performance of an in home service by a repairman. With the exception of a new part if required, they should wave any labor and service call fees.
this is more than likely a defrost sensor or timer that is not allowing the fridge to go into a defrost mode.you could also have a problem with the thermastat the allows the fridge to run for longer periods of time.
Sounds like your freezer has a bad defrost thermostat ( bimetal ) or bad #4 and/or #5 thermistor . This bimetal , has a high temp rating of 140 degrees , which means , when it gets to 140 behind the panel , it will cut off the defrost heater , to keep ice and food from thawing . The thermistors , tell the main control board the temps , and it decides when to restart the cooling process . I would check the thermistors by the digital controls , in the test mode , or have a technician check them for you .
Sounds like the defrost timer or something in the defrost circuit.
Sears has a complete model number system that is confusing I know. Sears made it that way. Not sure why but look around the cold food door while open and look near bottom on the frame just above the kick plate. The number looks like this, (model No. 253.64802400 for example) Find that number and we can go from there, Thanks, Sea Breeze
guff21, you have a problem with defrost cycle.
3 things, defrost heater, bi metal, and timer. either one of the three goes bad, same problem appears.
check the defrost heater by resistance. it should have a resistance
check the timer if it is turning and tunning and transfering from cooling mode to heating mode and vice versa.
you can only check the bi-metal if its all frozen up. the bi-metal is close at freezing temperature and opens at thaw themperature.
Unplugging and letting it completely thaw out is not the answer to your problem in the long run. You have a problem in the defrost system. These problems are normally cause by the following; The defrost timing device has failed. If it is a timer it can normally be located near the temperature control area. It will have a hole in the plastic cover through which you can access the clutch head screw. Turn the screw Clockwise very SLOWLY until you hear one audible click. that will put the system into the defrost mode. Wait about 25 minutes and the defrost of the freezer coil should happen. If the system does not restart and defrost happens, turn the timer again one audible click and the system will restart cooling. (Replace the timer). If the system restarts after the time period and defrost does not take place your problem is in the heater or defrost thermostat. Back wall must be removed inside the freezer to access these components.