Have you lost power, or is the platter rotating abnormally? If there is no power, it's the power supply that needs to be replaced. If it's acting funning, then some components on the main drive PCB are damaged. In either case, professional help is highly recommended.
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You need to have the case's power switch plugged into the jumper pin header of the motherboard. Plug in the PSU into the 120 volt mains, enable the PSU via the switch (the one you turned on in the video) and then press the power switch on the computer CASE. That should do it!
The machine is made to work with 120 volts and you have plugged this on a 220 volt mains circuit thereby blowing up the fuse, or the power circuit, possible heater and the main controller unit board.
A step down transformer was needed to work this unit safely . Now unless the unit is opened the damage cannot be confirmed but if you are lucky the fuse would ahve blown and saved the rest. if so test it with a new fuse using a 220 to 120 volt convertor.( transformer with good rating)
The 120-240 power simply means the supply of your TV can be plug in to 120 Volts AC to 240 Volts AC that will come out to your outlet.For example your outlet is 120 Volts AC you can plug in your TV in there.In short your TV supply is auto-volt.
I hope this information could help you.Thank you.
I think you should check the real power supply ... 120 V in and what comes out ... volts (ac - dc) and amps or what fraction of an amp.
Please compare the old with the new power supply. The new power supply should be the same volts - same kind (AC or DC) and at least the same amp rating. You can use higher amp rating but not lower - lower will burn up - literally)
Volt meter ... always set it above the suspected voltage. Batteries are always DC. Houses, buildings, etc always AC. Power supplies - could be mixed - ac in and dc out.
So if you were measuring in your home, you set the meter to 130 or higher on the AC scale. If you were doing your auto, 24 volts DC (or so).
House current, probe color doesnt make any difference. Should read about 120 Volts between the narrower (or right side/ground down orientation) or the two slots and the wider of the two shots (wide should be the neutral side - ground on the bottom). You can prove the hot side by measuring to the ground. White wire to ground = no reading. Black wire to ground = 120 volts. (The black and white are INSIDE the electric outlet. You can use either probe to do the measurement.
make sure the switch on the back of the power supply is set to 120 volts , does the power-supply fan come on? if not it may be the power supply they are pretty inexpensive and not too dificult to replace
It sounds like you hav blown a fuse. Hopefully just a fuse, connecting a 110 to a 240 will hurt.
Most equipment survives short term high voltage but sometimes it just can't take it.
if it's not the fuse then it's very likely damaged the power supply which will require the expert help of a technician..
good luck !
Ps the 321 is a very nice bit of kit..
You have been very honest and told us the facts behind the fault, thanks for your good fault description...
Now what you have done by flicking that little switch is:-
Altered the input power design of the stereo system.
The switch is there so that the user can connect it to either the USA power supply of 110-120 volts, or connect to the Australian/New Zealand power supply of 230-240 volts.
When you turned the switch over you lowered the input to 110-120 volts yet it was still plugged into a 230-240 volt power supply.
This has blown a component inside the power supply and
now it must be replaced.
This is a specialised replacement process by a service man..
The clicking sound is made by the internal power supply (Its called a switched mode power supply) and it has detected the blown component and it is trying to reset itself automatically for you, but it cant because of the faulty component.
Its very clever in its design and if it wasnt clicking there would have been quite a loud 'bang" and a lot of smoke when the switch was moved to 110-120 volt position.