Unknown Component From Controller Board to Switch.
Hi, I have an open circuit component from the controller board to the 120v power switch. It looks like a 1/2 watt resistor green body marked 7A LE. The "E" is in the legs of the "L" so probably a manufacturers ID. I think it may be a fuse, thermal or inductor. Your opinions may help. I have a photo, but don't know how to attach it to the problem. Thanks, John.
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Unfortunately Rainbow does not offer this part by itself, they only make the computer as a complete assembly. Rainbow E2 controller 120v You can try contacting local vacuum shops and see if they have any broken Rainbows with good controllers that they would be willing to sell only that part to you.
Fault with the main power supply regulator board. Check and replace damaged component/s at its main power regulator [SMPS] section circuit. Contact any service technician. If you wish to get some details; check the site linked here. Surf the site with patience. Pull up older posts. http://electronicshelponline.blogspot.com/ It will be best to replace the power supply regulator board as card basis rather than making "Surgery" to it; which usually will make loss for both money and time. Even though you can make it right, it will cost around an amount equal to the cost of a new board; including the cost of (spare parts + service charge) More to say, most of the spare parts to it will be difficult to get from open electronic spare part market. This is true to most of the flat panel TV power supply boards; irrespective of its brand and screen size.
SMPS start voltage problem. Check all the reisistors; that supply the initial voltage to SMPS control section; at switch ON. Contact any service technician.
The controller circuit (usually a small board connected directly to DVD drive - it is either part of the drive or a sub-assembly which is attached - and contains several ICs and small capacitors and a lot of surface-mounted components on its copper side) is probably faulty, possibly due to the original bad PSU (which you have since replaced), chances are the original faulty PSU has damaged this circuit - usually DVD drives operate around 12V DC or so. The digital controller circuit/board not only has the EEPROM/CPU etc. on it, but also has a servo supply - for the DVD (the VCR servo supply is on the motherboard). This powers the disc tray and traverse unit. The controller is not serviceable at component level; it must be replaced and in some cases, the DVD drive must also be replaced where the board is not separate to the drive. This may not be economical.
It may just be a simple case of a blown digital controller circuit - but be warned, this board is not cheap - it is part of a 'module' (the disc drive and controller together = DVD module), and you may not be able to obtain the board without a new DVD drive. Up to you what you do from here, and you might be lucky in terms of the motherboard and HDD - no damage there.
sc672 is a communication error between the controller board and some other component. Did you switch the machine off using the orange power switch on the lower left side, or just the power button on the operation panel?
With the power completely off and the machine unplugged, pull the controller board out by removing the two screws holding it in on the rear left side of the machine. (It should slide right out the side.) Check all of the connections on the board and make sure everything is sitting securely, then reinstall the controller board.
Worst case scenario, you might have a bad memory stick, bad controller board, or another bad circuit board, but more than likely there is a connector somewhere that just needs to be set securely. You can also remove the operation panel (two screws on the top of the panel and possibly two screws underneath it as well) and check the harness that connects the op panel board to the machine.
as per the problem which you mentioned it clearly indicates that problem is with the switch in the wall unit.but you mentioned that you checked the switch and it is OK.
this means that the problem is with the main circuit control board of the wall unit.on that board the component is got blow-ned out or any of the component is got loose.you will have to check out with meter .if it looks looks then component needs re soldering but if its faulty or blow-ned out then that component needs replacement. This will help. Thanks please keep updated.please do rate the solution positively .thank you for using fixya
If you hear a flickering sound the power board is bad .However since you have found the lcd board to be faulty you might as well replace it.Look for it on line by part number.Or to save yourself some headache use a good board from a working monitor.
Who posted this comment I am really appreciative. I have had the same problem with my dishlex. I disassembled the plumbing and removed a chunk of plastic wrapping from inside the pump. Then I checked the heater with a multimeter. It measured fine. The next day I read this post and have since removed the controller. I found the burnt solder joint mentioned. I have since cleaned up the mess, repaired the circuit board, re-soldered the effected component and the dishwasher is now working better than ever.
I have read elsewhere that this problem arises when the door is opened while the heater is on and the program hasn't been paused. I don't know if that is the exact cause but in my house we will be more careful about that from now on.
The damage to the circuit board was on the Normally Open terminal of the relay used to control the heater. The heater is marked as being about 2100 watts. The relay is marked as being able to switch 125Vac. Which is interesting because power here in Australia is 240Vac. At 240Vac the heater will draw a little under 10 amps when operating.
Anyway the circuit board trace is possibly a little narrow at the point where the burnt connection was and I can see why it would have burnt out. The other terminals on the relay were showing signs of becoming dry joints too. The repair was effected by completely removing the relay, cleaning all the joints, re-soldering the relay and laying a loop of tinned solid wire around the burnt terminal to replace the missing piece of circuit trace.
Anyone who has a little skill with a soldering iron could perform this repair. The worst that could happen is you could lift what is left of the circuit trace from the board. Since the controller is already broken you can have a go and probably save yourself the cost of a new controller.
On the morning of Monday 23/6/08, I have decided to measure the effected components on the control (power) board.
The control or power board is the one that supply the DC power to the DC motor which runs the tumbler of the machine.
I could see black marks around 3 leg component which is clamped against the cooling pipe on the board.
I decided to enter the component number the one printed on it in the internet Go ogle site.
The description of the 3 leg component was TOP224Y and is a switch and inspecting it reveals its casing was blowen and one of the leg was separated.
I decided to buy a new TOP224Y and there was only TOP224YN available no more TOP224Y.
The price is $10 something.
With a solder ****** I was able to dismount TOP224Y from the control board,
and when I will receive the new TOP224YN I will replace it.
In the same time I noticed a big diode next to TOP224Y was also overheated and cracked and a small glass diode was also cracked and need replacement. The transformer next to the TOP224Y is called fly transformer I had measured it with an ohm meter, it reads very low nearly zero ohm.
I will receive the new component TOP224YN tomorrow 24/6.
Hi unfortunately you will have to replace the whole board. If you go onto Google and type in the search bar "HP Part Surfer" and select the site that goes onto the part surfer. Select language then select the machine type and then you will be able to search for the correct part and it will display the part number.
I don't know where in the world you are so you will have to find a HP supplier and order the part.
this problem seems to be more electrical device failure as opposed to micro controller confusion. I would look for a failed power supply component, possibly an overheated resistor that has changed value and caused power loss. Look for a browned-out area on a circuit board.