Unknown Component From Controller Board to Switch.
Hi, I have an open circuit component from the controller board to the 120v power switch. It looks like a 1/2 watt resistor green body marked 7A LE. The "E" is in the legs of the "L" so probably a manufacturers ID. I think it may be a fuse, thermal or inductor. Your opinions may help. I have a photo, but don't know how to attach it to the problem. Thanks, John.
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Did you blow a fuse, or trip a circuit breaker? Often an overload like a stuck motor indicates there is a circuit being opened. If you know how to get inside, check the brushes, but I am inclined to suggest looking at a possible fuse blown in the power circuit, possibly in the power strip you use to plug in multiples.
replace the hat switch. hat = High Air temp. This switch is located on the end of the air end and usually has 1/2" flex conduit on it. Remove the conduit. It goes to a box located on the frame near and under the airend. Remove the cover from the box tug on the wires at the hat switch to see which two wires need to be disconnected.disconnect wires unscrew hat switch. Put a new oring on the new hat switch and install new hat switch. Hat switch is the only switch that will give high temp and lose control power. Let set a while and can reset unless probe is broken off.
OK, Compressor should be shut down and showing (ready to start) in display. Press load/unload button once then press hidden right button within 3 seconds. This will let you access the set point program. It will include language, temperature and pressure, rated pressure,etc. Make sure you look at the data tag affixed to the unit and see what the rated pressure is for your unit. You can endanger yourself and equipment by over pressurizing the components of the compressor.
I know you have checked voltage. However please remove the fuses for control power and check,also check fu4 and 5 16volt fuses. next check power on the controller input. Don't remember terminal # but if you look in electrical cover removed to gain access, a wiring schematic will be affixed to it. I think it's on j5 terminal 36 110volts. But please check the schematic first. If you have power at the input terminal I suspect the controller is bad but continue with the following checks. If no power at terminal 36 check the hat (High Air Temperature) switch. Its located on the end of the airend and about 1/2 inch flex connected.If the hat switch is good check the emergency stop contacts. Note the power lite picks up voltage before the emergency stop and hat switch. So even though the lite is on one of these switches may be bad.
OK there's not much to these first check, the power plug, check cable, if you can, open it up and see if there is power to the On/Off switch, if there is check the switch, if they are all good but still no go, then most likely culprit is the speed controller, you will need to replace it.
This is letting you know the motor rotation is incorrect. If this is a new unit or has just been installed or other rewiring work done in your plant etc. you need to get your electrician to roll 2 of the 3 incoming power leads. If this compressor has been in service and operating you have a vacuum switch or transducer possibly bad. you also need to check the transducer line or vacuum switch line ( both are normally 1/4 inch plastic tubing) for tightness and leaks. For example the line has rubbed a hole in it. When you try to start the unit the transducer does not see the required vacuum. The controller interrupts this low or no vacuum as the rotation is incorrect and thus gives a check motor rotation alarm and shuts down.
First you need to program the controller. Controllers do not come programed for a specific compressor. You will need to enter factory set point and and set all parameters. Horse power, pressure, DOL start or wye delta start etc. The new controller is probably set incorrectly. Look at factory set points on the old controller and copy all the parameters and then set the new controller to those set points.
Change the capacitor 220uF and it will most certainly work again. I got the idea from FixYa and it solved my problem! Easy to change just 2 soldering points and a component costing around 0,2 Euros. If you do not know how to operate a soldering tool ask someone for a quick assistance. The switch takes around 2 min (1,5 min to open the charger and 0,5 min to change the component!).
Hello their, thanks for trying fixya, the issue with these type of tools is normally the ac motor, their are many diffident types used but yours in particular 120V, 50-60 Hz, AC, 1.15 amp double insulated motor. Operates from 5,000 to 30,000 RP, their is a electric motor that may have failed on you or the switch could burned out. this is possible when the contacts are shorted for to long become to hot and overload the small circuit used to control potential voltages to the motor, consider it like a variable pot switch.
a simple test here would be you can take the unit apart easily enough and unplug from wall, make sure you have no voltage from mains going in. when the unit is not plugged in get your trusty voltage ohm meter or vom
I have a Dremel 395 Type 3. Motor works fine, shaft doesn't turn.
Took it apart to find that the white plastic or nylon flex coupling on
the shaft had crumbled and the spline driver, which fits directly over
the motor end of the shaft was somewhat worn. I emailed Dremel and got
an overnight reply listing the 2 parts I need and the cost: Coupling is
$1.00 and the driver is $1.25. Placed order by phone: 1-800-437-3635.
I ordered 2 of each in case future replacement is needed. Total bill
came to $7.27 including Florida tax and shipping. Can't beat that.
They said it would be in the mail by tonight. (Flex coupling number is
2615294309; spline driver is 2615294308.)