Question about Refrigerators

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Is my warming fridg worth repairing?

I have a Hoover 365 frost-free (bottom freezer) and over the last month or so, its cooling capacity has decreased markedly.  The compressor is running continually and, with all the cooling air directed to the freezer, and cooling set to max, it can sustain a temp of about 1 degree.

My question is, is it worth paying for a service call (plus whatever work/parts are needed) or should I just consider a new purchase?  I guess the unit is about 10 years old.

Thank you,
Mark

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  • Refrigerators Master
  • 42,042 Answers

You will have to get in a technician to do a proper diagnosis to get enough information to make that decision. the service call will be very small compared to the cost of a new unit if the repairs are cheap
because the compressor is working overtime , it suggests that the door seals are faulty and not sealing or the door/s need adjustment

Posted on May 18, 2017

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SOURCE: GE PFS22MISBBB freezer not cold enough. Temp won't reset.

replace the fan as quickly as possible it may be shorting and causing damage to your control board,

Posted on Mar 31, 2008

22yooper
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SOURCE: compressor making a loud noise, freezer cannot cool

It sounds to me like the internal relief valve is lifting due to discharge pressure being to high such as it a system that is over charged with refrigerant. Have the system tested for pressures on high and low sides. If someone has serviced this unit recently there may be to much of a charge in the system. Also check the name place for the proper refrigerant and charge .

Posted on May 19, 2008

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Kenmore Elite bottom freezer refridgerator

I just went through this with my refridgerator and actually posted one of the questions. Here is what I found ........

In the freezer compartment behind the panel there is an evaporator fan which pulls cold air from the freezer and pushes it up into the refrridgerator compartment. If the fan is not working it is one of three things.. 1) there is so much frost in the fan area the fan blade is stopped and cannot push the cold air into the refridgerator compartment or the air channel is blocked. 2) there is no electricity going to the fan (usually tied to the door switch of the refirdgerator compartment, and 3) the motor is dead and will have to be replaced.

Solution to #1 - defrost but there is another problem in the "frost-free" part of the system which must be addressed or the frost will return and it will happen again in the future.

Solution #2 - check to see there is power to the fan. (most are 110VAC but some are 100VDC. Use a meter and check)

Solution #3 - If there is power, the motor is dead. Replace the motor. Be aware that AC and DC motors are different and replace per manufacture's specifications.

Posted on Nov 23, 2008

VtToolMan
  • 704 Answers

SOURCE: Refrigator not cooling properly, freezer works fine

I'll assume you don't have much food/items in the freezer section. Because you have the fridge set on the max cooling setting and the freezer set higher than the mid setting, it could be that you have frozen the cold air passage from the freezer to the fridge.

If you can, 1) remove all contents that would spoil; 2) turn off the fridge 3) open both doors and allow the fridge to manually thaw out completely (this will speed up the opening of the cold air exchange passage between the freezer and fridge, which is likely blocked and frozen solid. Have plenty of towels handy to soak up the water from the defrosting process,

After a FULL day of being left off and doors open to thaw out, check for any further thawing and dripping water inside, if present wait another 8 hours (you really want to get it thawed out the first time!) When that's done, reset BOTH temperature controls to the factory mid-point setting (5?) as marked on your control knobs.

The key to having a refridgerator run properly is to allow for it to run at the factory settings for at least 24 hours BEFORE you adjust the controls higher and/or lower for each section. Adjust it up or down in ONLY 1 setting increments so as to not cause ice build-up and freezing of the internal air exchange passages.

Also, as you've relegated this fridge as a garage "beer & backup" unit, make sure to keep the freezer as full as possible to make it run as efficiently as possible. You can freeze jugs of water and pack it with cheap thrift store bread to help it run correctly. An empty freezer has to work harder to keep just air at freezing temps. As such, it will pass much colder air into the fridge, and cause these types of freeze ups. By the way, turning up the temp controls only makes it worse and just results in a total "freeze up" inside the cabinet panels that you can't easily see or get at to rectify, hence the reason to shut it off and let it fully defrost.

When you're done, you should have your fridge back in action working like it should, but remember, don't rush temperature adjustments, even thou we all want those frosty beverages, it'll take a couple of days to achieve the desired "chill" you're likely used to getting when it was your primary fridge.

Hope this helps and Best Regards! Semper Fi!

Posted on Aug 03, 2009

  • 6 Answers

SOURCE: Amana BX22A2W - freezer works, fridge not cooling

Same problem here with an Amana refrigerator with the freezer on the bottom. I removed the back panels and vacuumed dust and cat hair out. The back panel in the freezer was frosted over with ice on the bottom. I removed the shelves and food and used a hairdryer to loosen the panel. The ice maker made it harder to remove the plastic panel so I pulled it back and saw the cooling fins frozen solid. I used the hairdryer to melt the ice and a shop vacuum to collect the water. It works like new again.

Posted on Jun 13, 2010

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2 Answers

Fridge is warm freezer is cold


Hello Abo Karin,

You are likely experiencing a DEFROST failure
(most commonly a defrost PCB failure)...
part number 67006740 item 5 on your exploded
case view (top center as viewed from the front).

There are typically only three (3) elements to a DEFROST
power control circuit:
- Defrost Printed Circuit Board ( PCB as noted above)

- Heater element to WARM the EVAPORATOR

- DEFROST thermostat... inhibit excess heat
(closed circuit at freezing - Opens at room temperature)

Check your defrost pan...
there should be water there DAILY...

IF not: you are assured that your DEFROST fails.

Per your DESCRIPTION...
You need to look for a SUDDEN REASON (huge air leak)
why FROST would form so quickly...
USUALLY a big pizza box... BUT ANYTHING blocking a
TIGHT DOOR SEAL will cause massive frosting.

It is taking moisture from the WARM ROOM AIR and blocking your evaporator...

a PROPERLY functioning defrost circuit would remove that frost
at least DAILY... and the EVAPORATOR fan would properly chill the refrigerated side blowing cold air from the FREEZER.

Yes ... all INTERIOR panels must be in place for the refrigerator to function properly.

Hope this helps

Your part... (see video instructions)
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/whirlpool-board-jazz-wpw10503278-ap6022400.html

Sears... (I don't USUALLY recommend for purchase)
http://www.searspartsdirect.com

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/part-model/Kenmore-Parts/Refrigerator-Parts/Repair-Maintenance/Questions-Answers/location-of-defrost-timer-on-sears-fridg/Model-59665932402/0582/0161000/338616?modelNumber=59665932402

also see other .com retailers
partsselect,
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repairclinic
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