We need to attach a new pigail to the KitchenAid 750 LQI
We were given a very good Kitchen Aid 750 LQI and the 220 volt plug in the house doesn't match the pigtail on the dryer. We purchased a new pigtail, but now aren't sure how to match the green, red, white and black wires.
An expert who has achieved level 3 by getting 1000 points
An expert that got 10 achievements.
An expert that got 5 achievements.
An expert whose answer got voted for 100 times.
Re: We need to attach a new pigail to the KitchenAid 750...
Perhaps I can assist you with your wiring dilemma. To begin with, you wil need to gain access to the back of the dryer so pull that out and locate the feedthru where the original cord fed into it. Next, loosen the cable clamp ( make sure the cord has been unplugged from the wall receptacle )..
Once you loosen the cable clamp, open the access cover to where the wires get terminated onto the terminal block of the dryer. You should see at least 3 locations... and maybe 4. Your dryer should have a red, black,white and or green terminal so match the red wire to the red terminal, black to black, white to white and the green is the ground wire... if you do not have a ground terminal on the terminal block then you should see a ground stud near the point of entry or near the terminal block itself. It's ok to use one of the sheet metal screws on the frame if you can't identify a ground terminal.
For the record, the red and black wires are incoming ac power, the white is your neutral which is normally wired between the red and black and the green is a frame ground for your safety. Hope this helps you but if not, feel free to restate your question or concern.,..
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
1st thing is to reset the house breaker for the dryer, it is a 220 volt breaker, the dryer only needs 110 volts to run but needs 220 to heat, so the breaker can be partially tripped which will only allow for it to run but not heat. If that is good make sure where the cord attaches to dryer terminal block isn't burnt up, you can lose 220 there as well. If you have 220 to the dryer then you either have a bad element or thermal cutout located on the element with the hi limit thermostat, those parts can be tested for continuity out of operating condition
1st go the the house breaker (dbl breaker) for the dryer and shut it off and turn it back on, your dryer runs on 220 volts of power but if the breaker is partially tripped it may be only running on 110 volts which is only enough power to turn the lights on and to turn the drum the element needs 220 volts to turn on. If it still doesn't heat after resetting the breaker then you may need a heating element or thermostat. The dryer isn't shutting off because it isn't detecting the clothes are getting dry so once you fix your heating problem the dryer should start shutting off on its own again.
If you consider doing this the first thing is SHUT THE MAIN BREAKER OFF. Use an auxiliary light source to see when working in a dead panel. Always keep in mind an ARC FLASH ACROSS HOT MAINS HAS ENOUGH HEAT TO PEAL THE SKIN OFF OF YOU.
Before an explanation of how to do it you should keep in mind that this
is for a single receptacle only. If any other receptacles are on the
same circuit they will also be changed to 240 volt receptacles and if
you plug any 120 volt device into them, the 120 volt device will be
destroyed. That said OK, any 120 volt outlet can be changed to 240 volt
by removing the 120 volt circuits neutral, re identifying the white wire
with red or black phase tape and connecting it to a new 2 pole
15 amp breaker. The maximum that this circuit will now load up to is, on
#14 wire at 80% = 12 amps at 240 volts. The 120V receptacle must be
changed to a 15A - 240V receptacle so that 120 volt devices can not be
plugged into it. Never use 2 single pole breakers together because code
requires that on a fault trip both legs of the 240V circuit must be
disconnected simultaneously. OR USED A Quick 220 Voltage Converting Power Supply Voltage converter buying guide. Voltage Transformer Buying guide.Voltage converters also known as voltage transformers are devices that
convert foreign electricity to power devices from different parts of the
world. A step down voltage converter is a 220 to 110 volts converter. A
step up converter is a 110 volts to 220 volts converter. Our 2-way
converters are voltage transformers that convert power from both 220 to
110 volts and 110 to 220 volts. They also work with 100 volts, 110
volts, 120 volts, 220 volts and 240 volts. This model is a 2 way voltage
converter / voltage transformer available in many different sizes
including 100 watts, 200 watts, 300 watts, 500 watts, 750 watts, 1000
watts, 1500 watts, 2000 watts, 3000 watts and 5000 watts.
Check circuit breaker at the house electric panel, if good, check for voltage (220/240)volts at the receptacle that the dryer power cord plugs into, if good, check for voltage(220/240)volts at the dryer terminal block where the dryer power cord connects to the dryer, if good, check voltages at the dryer power transformer, should be 220/240 volts for motor,and 110/115 volts control power for dryer controls, you should find the failure within these inspections/testing.
Good Luck !
Unplug the dryer and the first thing to do is check for the presence of
220 volts at the wall outlet. If you lost one leg of the 220 volts, it
is possible for your dryer to run but there will not be any heat. Once
you verified there is definitely 220 volts at the wall outlet, remove
the rear cover. On the lower right hand side you will see a silver
canister which contains the heating element. Remove the lower two wires
directly from the heating element and check this for continuity. If it
is good, on the left hand side of the same canister they often install a
thermal safety which may have tripped. Do the same test as with the
heating element. Remove the wires and test the thermal safety for
continuity. If this is good, move to the blower housing on the left
side of the exhaust vent and look for a white piece of plastic which has
two wires on it. Remove these two wires and check this item for
you can follow this link below to find out how to test for individual components to find out what part is faulty...
Do you have the part number, is so Put in (Find kitchen aid dryer Part# 111111* ) Or( Find kitchen aid dryer heating element* ). If this is a old dryer some parts are not made anymore. Any Dryer over 7 years old is no longer energy efficient. Hope This Helps.
I have the same problem, and it might be due to the fact that your dryer operates off a voltage that your house is not providing. Your dryer might need 220 volts and is only receiving 110 volts. That may be why it powers up but nothing works but the light when you open the dryer door. It needs more power to run the rest. Look into changing the voltage on your receptacle in your house to 220 volts to properly operate your dryer. Good luck!