Not getting gas to combustion chamber, leaking gas from exhaust
If I pour gas through the air intake or starting fluid mower starts and will run as long as there is gas. Gas tank is full. I checked gas line past the fuel filter and is there is gas in the line. I added some seafoam to help clean it up a little, but it just makes it smoke, (white smoke), from exhaust. I also replaced the spark plug
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of.(from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones)
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. Goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
It is either one of two very common problems. To eliminate the easiest requires fining out if you are getting fuel in the combustion chamber. Get some starter fluid, a small amount of gas in a cup will work but can be dangerous. Remove the air cleaner cover and air cleaner. Spray fluid into carb intake the try to quickly start motor. If after trying this a few times without the motor firing, it would b a fair guess that you have a spark problem. If the motor starts and runs for a very short time, then you are not getting fuel to the carb. Those are the two major systems of small engines.
Hi Anonymous, popping, coughing, spitting, or backfiring through the carburator is usually caused by air getting sucked in combustion chamber do bad intake seals leaking. Leaking exhaust gaskets can also be suspect. Remove air cleaner and backing plate, while engine is idling spray WD-40 or Brake Kleen around intake manifold to head area, if RPM's increase you have an intake leak and seals need to be replaced, also spark plugs will be burning whiter than normal. Good luck
Hi Tommy, popping, coughing, spitting, or backfiring through the carburator or induction module can be caused by air getting sucked in combustion chamber do bad intake seals leaking. Leaking exhaust gaskets can also be suspect. Remove air cleaner and backing plate, while engine is idling spray WD-40 or Brake Kleen around intake manifold to head area, if RPM's increase you have an intake leak and seals need to be replaced, also spark plugs will be burning whiter than normal. Good luck
Hi Anonymous, popping, coughing, spitting, or backfiring through the carburator or induction module is usually caused by air getting sucked in combustion chamber do bad intake seals leaking. Leaking exhaust gaskets can also be suspect. Remove air cleaner and backing plate, while engine is idling spray WD-40 or Brake Kleen around intake manifold to head area, if RPM's increase you have an intake leak and seals need to be replaced, also spark plugs will be burning whiter than normal. Good luck
probably not. White smoke in the exhaust is a sign of either coolant or oil entering the cumbustion chambers (cylinders). Faulty fuel pumps usualy stop delivering fuel to the engine and it won't run at all.
is it a diesel or gas engine?
Usually excessive blue smoke on start up indicates oil is getting into the combustion chamber. It could be piston rings or valve seals.
Quick check, drive it within operating range and speed. Either use the rear view mirror or get someone to drive it and you follow in another vehicle. Accelerate, then take your foot of the accelerator. Blue smoke under acceleration indicates piston rings / pistons. Blue smoke on deceleration or the "over-run" indicates worn valve guides / seals.
White smoke can indicate coolant in the combustion chambers / leaking cyl head gskt, or incorrect fueling. If brake fluid gets into the combustion chamber it will generate a lot of white smoke from the exhaust. However, that would entail a leaking brake master cyl and a leaking brake booster.
So IAC has been replaced. Sounds like a dirty throttle body, EGR valve, or vacuum leak. DId you do the maintenance yourself. If so then you should be able to inspect Throttle Body to determine if black and dirty.. this can cause intake problems leading to your issue adn rough idle. EGR valve sends exhaust gas back into combustion chamber to reburn it and make car more environmentally sound. If stuck open it can allow too much exhaust into combustion chamber causign a lean mixture, too much air can cause this.. Vacuum leak can also allow too much air in. Start with easiest and check Throttle body, then EGR valve, finally for vacuum leaks. Depending on your skill the EGR can be cleaned as can the throttle body.. a good link for TB cleaning is http://www.popularmechanics.com/cars/how-to/repair/1272341. A vacuum leak may be harder to diagnose. You are compensating by depressing gas pedal telling ECM to send more fuel to motor to overcome this issue thats why it will run and start with gas pedal pressed.
It sounds to me like you are experiencing two serperate issues, each of which has its own root cause. Lets first address the erratic idle issue associated with the engine code for system too lean bank "X". In modern fuel injected vehicles an onboard computer monitors inputs from a variety of different sensors located in various locations throughout the powerplant. Each sensor is strategically located in an effort to provide the computer with vital informatation reguarding not only how the engine is running but the condition of air flowing into and exhaust gas flowing out of the motor. A properly functioning engine runs as it does as a result of decisions made by the engine computer. The main function of the motor that is under direct computer control is "fuel injector pulse width". In other words, based upon the computers knowledge of air moving into the motor (derived from the mass air meter located forward of the throttle plate on the air induction tube and the manifold absolute pressure sensor located on the intake manifold) among other important inputs it decides how long each fuel injector should stay open in order to facilitate an optimum combustion event. In the case of your vehicle the oxegen sensors, responsible for monitoring the ratio of exhaust gases passing through the exhaust piping upwind and downwind of the catalyitic converters, have detected a mixture of exhaust gas suggesting a "lean" combustion event in the combustion chambers. The reason for this is more than likely a broken damaged or otherwise disconnected vacuum hose or cracked or leaking intake manifold or sealing gasket. The effect of which is known as "unmetered air". Unmetered air is any air that enters the intake manifold in a fashion other than past the mass air meter in the intake tube and directly past the throttle plate. When unmetered air is present the computer is essentially unaware of its existance and therefore can not compensate for its presence in the combustion chamber with added fuel volume. This causes all of the following: idle speed fluctuation, poor performance, poor fuel economy, dirtier exhaust emmissions, and a check engine light. Find and repair the vacuum leak and it will rectify the lean running condition. As for the vehicle slipping out of gear, it is likely time for a transmission "soft parts rebuild". Take it to a transmission shop and ask for an accessment. Expect to pay $1500-$2500.
Head gasket. The reason for the cold then hot readings is the cooling system is getting gas bound by exhaust gases. A simple intake leak would just make you loose fluid, but wouldn't cause the other symptoms until the coolant was very low. Which leads me to, is the coolant full? The head gasket most of the time will not leak coolant into the oil, but instead coolant will go into the combustion chamber, and exhaust gasses will go into the coolant. You don't see any white smoke until the leak gets extreme. Then shortly after that the engine hydro locks from too much coolant in the combustion chamber. There is a tester that will test your coolant for CO gas. That is the proof of a head gasket leak.
I can tell about a couple of odors from oils that are quite indicative of the places where they oil is leaking into the exhaust though.
You've got a few internal places where oil can get into the engine and
even some can get into the combustion chambers. They have distinctive
odors and can really help diagnose the cause or reason for the oil
First let's start with the "sweet-smells".
This means that the oil have gone through the combustion process along
with the engine's fuel (gasoline or diesels too!). It is about the same
smell you get whiffing the exhaust on a 2-cycle engine with gas-oil premix.
Places where this CAN happen:
1) Cylinder walls ie; piston rings, worn or broken.
2) PCV system where the oil is sucked into the manifold under vacuum
and is entrained into the combustion chamber in the normal air-flow to
the engine for combustion.
3) Intake runner-to-head surface gasket(s) where the intake can
actually **** oil from the cam tray area or the inner valley between
the heads and the intake manifold.
4) Occasionally from changing spark plugs in "well" type plug
chambers that let the plug get very close to the head through the head
casting. Taking a plug out and letting the collected oil fall into the
cylinder is usually a temporary situation, but can scare you when it
5) Cracked head or blown head gasket: this usually has to happen where
the head has a high pressure passageway for the oil to travel through
the head to get to a cam tower on top of the head.
6) Now - here's something that's gonna get debated, fer sure! ONLY the
intake valves can leak past their stem seals and allow oil to travel
down the stem onto the combustion process. Remember that I am speaking
or "sweet" oil smell here.
Now some of the "not sweet" or bitter oil smell:
1) Exhaust guides or stem seals on the EXHAUST valves ONLY can cause a very acrid smell of nasty, eye watering and cough-inducing stink.
2) CVCC or pre-combustion chambers can also cause this problem. The
Honda CVCC engines were notorious for this! The auxiliary valve can
leak oil into the pre-chamber and then it opens the valve and dumps the
burning mess into the main cylinder head area and the results are a bad
BAD stink and lots of white/blue smoke.
3) RARELY...very rarely the exhaust port AFTER the exhaust valve seat can become perforated and allow oil to get into the exhaust stream. It does NOT burn here - rather it just cooks-off with a very bad smell.
Acrid oil smell -
the oil has NOT gone through the combustion process in the cylinder
head but is rather "cooked" into a stinky odor. It may or may not smoke
too much too.
Sweet oil-burning smell - oil that has been burned as part of the combustion process in the combustion chamber on one or more or even all cylinders.