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Re: wild thing motor runs but sproket doesn't turn
Hi, The clutch is shot! This is right at the drive sprocket. leave the bar an chain off and they will fix it in seconds. Warranty right?? If not, you will see an arrow on the way to turn to remove. With a screwdriver straight in on inside body of the clutch, give it a very sharp tap with a hammer. It may take a few trys! Sure wish you had told the make! My crystal ball is not working to well because of the rain! LOL Frankster016
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It is running lean, they always need to run a little on the rich side free running, once the engine is loaded it will then need the excess fuel, it runs ok without the bar and chain because there is no load, start by replacing the fuel filter in the fuel tank, check the fuel hose up to the carb for signs of fuel leakage, replace if reqired, if the carb has standard adjuster screws, increase the H screw by 1/4 turn out ( anto clockwise ) this will richen the mixture.
one piston ring has expanded now having no or a very fine gap increasing the compression ratio causing this to happen. When the spark plug is removed it is very easy to pull on the cord in any means. A inspection is due of this engine or a new chain saw is needed
Sounds like your chain is to tight.Take the cover that is at right side of the saw motor off and loosen the two nuts a bit and look for a tension screw behind the bar and back it off,if the bar won't move loosen the two nuts that hold the bar on the saw.With the saw siting like you use it pull down on chain and get about 1/8 of an inch between the bar and chain.(use gloves)If the bar is blue by the chain groove You will need a new bar.Blue means the bar has over heated and lost its temper.The blue metal is brittle in other words.You should all so check the drive sprocket for wear.
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First get a pair of gloves and try and turn the chain by hand with the motor not running, does it turn easily and if not I would check the chain tensioning and also for debris in the clutch area that caused the chain to come off. remove the side cover and make sure nothing causing it to hang up. Then put saw back together and retension and the way to do this is to hold up on the nose of the bar and tighten the screw until you can only lift the chain and barely see the drive teeth in the middle of the bar exposed, snug down the locking nut and again rotate the chain by hand, Also while checking everything out check the bar to make sure it didn't get damaged. Let me know if you need more assistance.
Get some sta-bil fuel stabilizer. add twice the amount recommended on the bottle for storage to your mixed gas. Empty out chainsaw tank and refill with the new mix. Rub for 2 minutes, then shut off. Remove cover over carb and spray inside carb, soaking it down good and cleaning all internal surfaces visible - allow to sit overnight. Next day Spray down carb with carb cleaner for about 15 seconds. Start saw, allowing 2 minutes to warm up and reduce choke. If saw stalls, restart and spray inside carb as it runs with choke on - keep motor at the highest rpms you can as you spray - spray in 2 second bursts, not allowing motor to stall from spray. If it stalls, change sparkplug and try again. You have varnish build up in the carb and are trying to remove it so the carb will work without the choke. This may take some time but it is the exact procedure I used for my Poulan Team Realtree last spring - I spent about an hour spraying and staring before it ran without the choke. Good luck!!
hello,the starting point for adjustment screws is 2 turns out.turn in til lightly seated so as not to damage them. there are 2 or more style carbs used on saw,some have plastic caps that need to be removed(a small metal screw used as a corkscrew or pry off) or you need a special tool -splined.set high spped til runs good and back off an 1/8-1/4 turn so you dont burn it up. fine tune low spped so it accelerates when trigger squeezed and re check high speed adjustment.single screw is for idle spped-raises or lowers-if chain turns while at idle back off screw.
THE SAW IS RUNNING FINE . WHEN THE CHAIN STOPS AND THE ENGINE IS STILL RUNNING AT HI THROTTLE THE CLUTCH MAY BE WORN AND SLIPPING. PULL THE CHAIN AND BAR AND SEE IF THE CLUTCH HOUSING IS BLUEISH IN COLOR IF SO I WOULD REPLACE THE CLUTCH
Sound like the carb was never adjusted right. Unfortuatley, the carb adjustment screws require a certain tool that's not available to the public. (EPA thing) You'll have to take it to a shop to get it adjusted. That should solve the problem.
Sorry to tell you this but you need a new OIL PUMP but it's not a difficult thing to replace. On the main shaft of the crank shaft under the centrifugal clutch is a spiral wound wire that matches a plastic part that is the oil pump. You can get the part from Poulan parts and it will take about 15 minutes to fix the first time eight minutes the second time. Glad to be of assistance.