I have an Amana hood microwave unit and I suspect that the circuit board is fried....I checkd the power cord and replaced the fuse and electricty is coming through the wires, but the display panel is blank and nothing is working on the microwave at all. Can you repair this? It's model is MVH350SS
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Re: Broken circuit board
the fuse is good, it may be an open thermostat or thermal cutout (TCO)
/ thermal fuse on or near the magnetron or on top of the cavity / body
of the oven.
should be a "mini-manual" (tech sheet) hidden inside the unit behind the
control panel or hidden on the left side behind the grille, which is
very helpful when troubleshooting, testing, and locating components.
our Web site, we have a video available showing how to remove a typical
over the range control panel assembly in under 5 minutes.
We regularly repair these control units for
customers nationwide by mail for $39.95 postpaid in about a week with a one-year guarantee.
Feel free to contact me directly (and please remind me of your full model number) for more information & help.
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Most microwaves have a fuse inside the unit. Make sure that you have unplugged the microwave and then remove the cover and look for where the power cord goes into your microwave. Follow the black wire from the power cord and it should take you to either an inline fuse holder or a small circuit board where the fuse will be mounted. You will need to replace it with the same size fuse and the amp rating will be stamped on one of the silver collars. Hope this helps!
Jim, Take the screws out that hold the cover on your unit and then take the cover off. Find where your cord goes into the machine and follow the black wire from the cord, it normally should go to a small circuit board and your fuse is usually mounted on that circuit board. It will be a 15 amp fuse and you usually can get one of those at most appliance parts stores. If there is not a circuit board the black wire may go directly to an in-line fuse holder. Hope this helps.
F3 usually means a problem with the control panel. There may be a corroded component or a power surge damaged the unit. Sometimes a little water will get into the keypad and cause the problem.
First try unplugging the unit for ten minutes. That may reset error code. (For built-in units, you can try flipping the circuit breaker to off or removing the trim to reach the power cord.)
If that fails, unplug the microwave again. You can remove the vent by unscrewing the top screws. Open the door to get the vent free. Then unscrew another screw to tip the keypad down (push up at the bottom of the panel). Disconnect the wires from the circuit board and remove the screws. Remove the circuit board and the shield behind it. Check over all of the pieces for dirt or signs of corrosion. (Clean gently.) Let everything dry (or use a hairdryer to dry all sides of the components). Then replace the parts in the reverse order. Plug in the microwave and check for the error.
see the next steps: God bless your use the common sense, NOT feared. No Lights or Power, Unit seems Dead First check is the main
fuse of the unit. On countertop units, you will need to take the shell
off. The fuse will be close to where the cord comes through into the
unit. OTR units, this main fuse is usually behind the control panel or
possibly behind the vent. Usually the fuse is obvious if blown,
otherwise test with an OHM meter, if open, replace fuse. Some
brands will also have a thermal cut-off fuse in the incoming voltage
line to the control board. Older Maytags and Samsungs have this fuse in
it. This thermostat looking fuse is usually above the oven cavity
somewhere under the outside shell. Sometimes you can get to it through
the vent of OTR models. Test with an OHM meter, replace if open. see the block
Hello there and thank you for choosing fixya Yes it could certainly be the fuse and that is where i would first check and if it checks out good than you may have a fried controle board or even fried wires inside the microwave You may even have a bad power inverter also ok Sometimes the boards can be more expensive than the unit costs you originally so be wise to this ok keep me posted on what you have found best regards Mike
Start by investigating, open at the point where power cord goes in there is a fuse if it is o.k there is another smaller trans former powering the display board that normally uses thermo fuse, find out whether the thermo fuse is blown i hope this solves your problem
Maybe there's a problem with the power transformer or the power PCB [ Printed circuit board ] . Or it could be just a fuse . You need to check first . If it's the fuse , then that will be easy to solve , you need only to replace it with new one . But if the problem is with the transformer or with the PCB , you need to take your microwave to the service for repairing .
To locate the fuse, remove the outer cabinet of the unit, which is usually held in place with a few screws. Once the outer cabinet is removed, follow the power cord into the unit. It will take you to the fuse holder, where the fuse sits. The fuse holder is located two or three inches into the unit, and may be attached to a power board .
CAUTION: Your microwave oven is capable of giving you a serious electrical shock, even when it is unplugged. I strongly suggest you seek the assistance of an appliance repair technician when conducting any microwave oven repair .
There are about as many causes of this as there are parts in the set. To Start with, Check that the microwave is not plugged into a GFCI wall socket.. If it is, make sure the socket has not been tripped. If it has reset it. Make sure the set is unplugged for the rest of this. Follow the power cord in the unit to find the primary fuse. You'll need to test the fuse with a Continuity tester since this fuse usually a ceramic fuse and you can't just tell by looking at it. If that's good, the problem will most likely be a mini fuse on the controller board or a fuselink that's in side the small transformer on the controller board. If lightning is suspect, you can pull the board out and look at the circuit side to check to burned traces. Replace any MOVs that may be on the board otherwise any corrective work is just wasted. Back to the primary fuse... If the primary fuse is blown.... Chances are that you have a bad Diode in the Tube side of the circuit. Depending on the age of the unit... it maybe a HVR-1 diode. If their are no relays on the controller board, check for a bad Triac. It could be just time to junk it.