I have ZX750 kicker amplifier powering my two 12" Kicker Subwoofers and a MTX 400 watt 4-channel amp powering my four door speakers. Everything in my system was working fine for a couple weeks after I got it installed, but then my subwoofers started to make a clicking noise and slowly died out. After the subwoofers had died out, my door speakers began skipping until they also had stopped working completely.
I checked all the connections and wiring and everything seems to be in place, the red light on my Kicker amplfier has turned on and my other MTX amplifier will not light up anymore when i turn on my car. I think it may be a blown fuse but i checked both the fuses on both of my amps and they are not blown.
What do you think the problem could be? If it is a blown fuse, which one should i check?
If your amplifier has the internal Kicker card dealie "little computer card on the side that you can change out crossover settings and such," Turn off the vehicle, remove this device and make sure the contacts on the card are clean and free from black soot (showing a spark). clean the contacts with a pencil eraser or something hard but soft...
and put the little card back in place, start the car again and see if that helps,
I used to lose one speaker every once in a while with the same amp. I ended up replacing the module with a different one from my dealer and it worked fine (still does and it's been in my car 6 years).
Check that little module.
if this doesnt work, while the car is running and the music is "playing" wiggle the card and see if it works sometimes and not others. Likely is the little module.
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Jul 19, 2016 - If you want big bass, choosing the right subwoofer is only half the battle. Be the loudest car on the block with the help of these new mono amplifiers for your car or truck. ... 14 Best Rubber Floor Mats for Your Car or Truck.
Looking for the Best Car Amplifier of 2016? ... And if you are going to add a subwoofer, a monoblock amp is an absolute necessity. ..... Two-channel A/B ZRX516.2, 500 watts; Four-channel A/B ZRX616.4, 600 watts; Four-channel ... (PCBs) that can perform under the most rigid and extreme conditions attesting to the brand's ...
Oct 13, 2012 - 12 posts - 1 author
I'm new to both the forum and somewhat new to car audio in general so please excuse any ... So i need a great sub and amp to complement them for around $500. ..... other subs for under 200 bucks id rther have over type r
Whether you're looking for an amplifier to power your entire cars component speaker ... power outputs come in 3 settings (of 800 watts, 500 wats, and 300 watts ). ... Rockford Fosgate R750-10 Class D 4-Channel Subwoofer Amplifier ... Talk about power when it comes to getting some serious knocking under the trunk.
600 Watt to 1000 Watt 4 CHANNEL AMP for the four 6X9's and a less powerfull 4 Channel amp thats at least 200Watts to 400Watts peak for the 3 3-1/2 kicker speakers. Because if you try to connect the 3 3-1/2 speakers to only 1 4 channel amp that the 6X9 speakers are on you risk of overheating the amp and blowing the speakers too!!!
All amps aren't created equal. More exspense amps put out "cleaner" power. You need to know what the RMS power rating is for the amp at 8 ohms and 4 ohms. Also, is the speaker an 8 or 4 ohm speaker? How you wire a speaker or speakers (series or paralell) can change the ohms (resistence) which will change the power put out of the amp. Also, I'm assuming you are setting it up in mono?
For maximum power, you'll need to wire the subs so that they present a 2 ohm load to the sub outputs on your amp. That will give you the full 420 watts RMS the amp is rated for. Likewise, you,ll want the run the front 4-channels at 2 ohms. Run separately, they produce 85 Watts times 4 channels, or if bridged, 130 watts times 2-channels. But if you run fronts at 4 ohms, they only produce 70 watts times 4 channels and your sub output at 4 ohms drops to 210 watts.
first whats the range in terms of WATTS that your 12" sub can handle in 4 OHMS ? second , lets check the AMP , POWER ACOUSTIK 1800 WATTS , Now thats a lot of power to drive a single 12" sub speaker . your amp is 1800 watts , per channel is around 500 watts , if BRIDGE thats around 1600 watts rms for ONE channel , if your sub can handle that kind of wattage fine , but it will not blow the amp , what it does is shuts down , some kind of protection mode , it will come back on after a minute or so. I suggest to use one channel in stereo mode , or purchase another sub to use the other channel. i hope this helps AJ