Lower element on GE Profile electric convection oven went out
I saw my lower element in my oven crackle & then burn out last night while making a pre Thanksgiving dinner. Is it easy to replace? I need to do something quick because Thanksgiving is only 4 days away! The Model # as best as I can make out is J-TP17WOV2WW
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Re: Lower element on GE Profile electric convection oven...
Although this is an easy repair, the element is not a real common one so many service / parts stores may not have the WB44K5018 in stock. Make sure to get on finding one fast to make T day go smoothly. Here in the midwest I use C.E. Sundberg for a lot of my parts, as they have a good stock and are fast. (they have this part on hand at their main branch in Chicago and at Omaha, Fargo, and St. Louis Park (MPLS). The repair is essentially: Turn off power. Remove two 1/4 inch hex head screws. Pull element forward a couple inches into oven cavity to access the electrical terminals. Remove push on wires from old element. Install new element. One of the easier repairs.
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I have a DACOR double electric oven model ECD230SCH. the top oven lower element went out 1 and 1/2 years ago, but the top element broiler works. Yesterday the bottom oven did the same thing- bottom element not working along with convection. Pulled off doors and cut breaker. Checked thermal switch on top off oven- closed good. Pull out element and Ohm'ed out- good. Now pulled over and out oven top panel to get to the control boards. Found a nice set of schematics for the over control boards and electronics. Sat down and pin-pointed both relays that supply power to upper and lower oven "lower" heating elements. these are on 2 different boards- upper over relays on bigger board on the left with the transformer. Lower oven on the right smaller board. Hardest pain in the rear was just getting the little plastic stand offs to push back through the board to get it off. Finally got it off and inspected board. Low and behold the relay I pin-pointed had a burn/open connection on the solder joint. Re-soldered tested oven and lower oven lower heat element works now! Went to the next board and got that off and same exact problem on the rely for the top oven lower element. Re-solder and test- good!! Put everything together and ran over to 350 on top and lower and back to normal. Wife very happy she did not have to pay a repair man big bucks to swap out the control boards- would have had to replace both.
I have a degree in electronic technology so as a technician for many years did low and high voltage component level repairs. But pretty easy and you can visually see the open solder joint on the back of the board at the relay leg.
Jim B Roseville, CA.
DO you have a model number for that. I'm almost sure it's a thermal fuse in the back of the oven. Usually they go out during or after cleaning but that would shut down both elements. If you have the model (usually by the inside door look all over and up in the cavity) Then if you go to this link
when an oven won't bake, it's because the bake element is burned out.
The bake element is the black, pencil- thick tube at the bottom of the
oven. When the oven heats, the element glows red. This element has an
expected life-span of several years. It may last for only one; it may
last for many more. When the element burns out, you need to replace it. or try doing this 1. Turn the
clock selector knob to OFF
2. “Tweak” the oven control by turning the clock
selector knob slightly to the left (counter clockwise).
This may stop the flashing message/beeping and clear the