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robert mortlock Posted on May 18, 2012
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12v battery attached to on off switch attached to small set of neon flexy lights 2 pin fuse attached to positive line and i have used a 15,20,25 and 30amp fuse and all have blown. strangely enough its only when the lights are turned off that the fuse blows,if you wire the lights direct whithout the fuse section the wire seems to be warm. can you help me.

1 Answer

Marvin

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  • kawasaki Master 85,242 Answers
  • Posted on May 18, 2012
Marvin
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Joined: Jun 20, 2008
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All have blown strangely enough?? You have a short circuit, quit installing higher rated fuses find the shorted wire. You are going to start an electrical fire if you keep this up.

5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 10 Answers
  • Posted on Jan 17, 2009

SOURCE: 30 amp main fuse blows when the key is turned on.

Can be "nasty problem, for it can mean DEATH, if as you attempt traffic manouvre & it blows !-(As safety precaution , & this TIP would be useful to most all Bikers>Call to friendly POLARIS ATV Dealer & ask for Automatic Re Settable 20 AMP PROTECTOR ( tHIS FITS THE 500 sPORTSMAN A T V & as far back as the 350L 2 Cycle Firebreathing A T V ()Standard Equipment )-Wire that in from POSITIVE Supply on to your loom, & attch its earth ( Negative cable to NEGATIVE > - on Your Battery!--That done, procede to your RecRegulator Unit &Examine Likely "Melting of Delrin (Nyloc, White looking plastic connector plug to terminals of Rectifier/Regulator , Test Output from Alternator., Ensure ALL Eaths have been attended properly, by Unscrewing, & Shining through the Paintwork Refit, tighten & Apply Silicone Sealant ( So that when You "Power Clean" the Motorcycle You wont be "Degrading the EARTHS again!--Now Ride!--If the Loom Loom, near steering head happens to "Short out" The POLARIS Re Settable Fuse Link & Sealed in waterproof covering, will Re Set & then You get chance to further investigate at Your workshop!!Arm yourself with Voltohmyst , or Multimeter OOR mini pointer that can sense Current Flowing, check out ALL Swithes ( Disconnect rear brake light switch & front one by way of unplugging supply leads ( Just possible that You have intermittant short in one of them!--Did You happen to note IF You were turning slightly to Left or Right when Fuse Blew?--Well, look then for "Stress areas for wiring looms, as at Steering Head Stem region, Open the Sheath with Razor Blade & attempt to pull wires apart slightly , then EXAMINE RFOR>bare leads !---With Multimeter You could slowly "ISOLATE" components & IF You had reference to WIRING CHART You then could Painstakingly TRACE EACK LEAD & ENSURE it has no "LEAKAGE "--Best Of Luck & "StayUpright" -Des.

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Anonymous

  • 66 Answers
  • Posted on Feb 16, 2009

SOURCE: 30AMP FUSE KEEPS BLOWING WHEN I CONNECT THE BATTERY

i have had that happen when i accidentally hooked cables backwards to battery.red cable(pos) to post w/ + next to it & black cable(neg) to post w/ _ next to it is correct.

tbrat44

  • 86 Answers
  • Posted on May 21, 2009

SOURCE: 2001 ducati 750ss wont start

does it start and run when you jump start it? if so, you probable need a higher cranking battery. sounds like the battery isnt powerfull enough.

Anonymous

  • 420 Answers
  • Posted on Jun 11, 2009

SOURCE: blowing fuses,battery too hot

Sounds like the voltage regulator is not working properly.

Anonymous

  • 221 Answers
  • Posted on May 09, 2010

SOURCE: No power when the key switch is in the run position

Isolate the igition switcw again and set your meter to ohms turn key to acc. test red and red/grey wires 0-10 ohms then turn key switch to on test red-red/grey then red-red/back, then red/grey-red/black again 0-10 ohms the higher the resistance the lower the voltage. Now if that tests ok then it is plug and play i would go to the ground side and check the resistance there is a common ground on the left side of the bike check that for loose or broken connection good luck

Testimonial: "appreciate the advice, it was very helpful. Thanks!"

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2022 sun lite 16BH everything is working except my 12 V lights inside and my awning lights. What should I be checking

you posted camper to cars, moved to RV random
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check fuses first
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Passenger side high beam not working

Hi Lee
Could be open contacts on the Relay.
A Relay is simply a set of contacts actuated by an electromagnet coil.
A relay can click but it doesn't mean the internal contacts are closing.
Is there one relay for left side and another for right?

Use a 12v test light or Multimeter on 12 volts to trace the power.


Look at the connectors on the base of the Relay.
Get a pin out diagram of that relay of the Internet.
2 pins for actuation. Gnd & +12v.
2 Switch contact pins.
Short the "contacts" switch pins together to simulate Relay closing its Contacts.
Is there Battery 12v at one of the relay socket "contacts" pins?

Use a jumper lead from Battery + to that relay wire.

Good luck
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Misabishi verada, all lights horn ect work but wont kick over

You need to find out id your ign switch is sending 12v electrical to the starter.. There ia large post with the positive battery cable attached to it and a small post which is the wire from the ign switch connects.. run a wire from a postive source like the battery cable to the small post.. if the engine cranks you will know the starter is good and its not getting a 12 single from the ign switch. Post a comment and let us know what you find.
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Starter or master relay

HYBRID?????????????
lights , how about headlights. are they full bright>
checked all fuses in cab and engine bay????????

NO CRANK , if it cant crank it sure cant start. (m/t pushed ,yes)
1: battery bad. or not charged. to 12.6v rested warm voltage.
at 8v the solenoid dies, (bad battery)
2: bad starter cables.
3: bad starter (hit it with a hammer, cranks now?) hit solenoid too

so keys in pockets.
hot wire the solenoid.
1: starter cranks but will not start, normal. bad key line.
2: starter dead, bad starter bad battery or cables.
use jumper cables now, to prove starter is in fact bad.
use jumper cables to a good known battery

the key line is that line that is the small wire in the starter
if hotwirng works this line is dead.
this path varies by M/T and A/T tranny , not stated by you, so.

many hondas have a starter relay
how that is wired varies by transmission type and engine size.
both unstated.
but if you login to alldata.com , you can look an pick that your self
and see that relay,
if present it has 4 pins.
lets explain the simple relay
it has 4 pins, 2 are coil and 2 are the contactor.
its a slave switch (or a current buffer to an engineer)
it allows a small current to control 10 amps to the solenoid.
i will now show the v6 A/T key line tests.
at the relay pins 2 and 4 are 12v (11v about ) cranking, if not fuses are bad.
next is pin3 , if the clutch (M/T) switch is bad, or the A/T park switch is bad this pin fails to go to 0v. and the relay will be dead forever.
of pin 3, Lt-grn wire is not 0v. in park or clutch depressed fix this switch. if its 0v keyon.
then check pin 3 of relay (output)
if 0v cranking the relay is toast.
if 12v cranking its ok and the line is cut to starter .
(can sag to 11v on a warm day , or 10v in fridged weather ,not stated by you......)
there is the whole set of tests on a v6, A/T car.

post what you drive,and current temperature for vastly better answers.

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Citroen Xantia fog and reversing lights not working

Check Fuse F3. It supplies 12v to the reverse switch located on the transmission. If auto transmission (4HP14) the switch will have 4 pins, 2 for reverse light, 2 for starting circuit. If manual, it has two pins. When gear is in other position, only one pin will have 12v. When gear is in R, both pins will have 12v. The 2nd pin supplies directly to the reversing light. Fog light has connectors behind the bumper. It tends to get corroded. Disconnect and clean both side of the connectors and retry. Some may get the wires snapped. Check there first. Fuse F18,F7 and F6 supplies 12v to the foglight circuit. F6 supplies to the foglight relay. Check the relay too.
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How can I install the garmin 665 to my bike harness without damaging the garmin gps or my bike electric components. I want to connect the power cord to my battery directly. How should I go about...

I don't particularly recommend connecting your GPS directly to your battery. Hooking it up in this way puts you at risk for running down the battery, since the GPS will not turn off when you turn off the bike. You might be able to get the same solution by running a positive lead from one of the fuses in the fuse box. That would get you a switched power solution without necessarily complicating your installation.
However, whether you're connecting directly to the battery or through the fuse box, you'll need the same basic materials: a 12v cigarette lighter charger for your GPS and an in-line fuse to protect the GPS from power surges. Use a cigarette / 12v power port in your car to double-check the positive / negative assignments to each side of the cigarette lighter charger. Then, keeping track of those wires, cut off the charging end, so you have 2 bare wires. Add the in-line fuse (10 amp should be fine; 5 amp might be appropriate, too) to the positive wire. I suggest soldering the leads, rather than using crimp or pressure connectors; motorcycles have a habit of vibrating everything loose, over time.
Once you have your prepared charging line, run it down from where you plan to mount your GPS to your chosen power supply. Install the negative wire to ground by attaching it to a frame or motor bolt, rather than directly to the battery. This will be easier if you attach a loop terminal that fits between the bolt and the tightening nut. On the positive side, if you're connecting directly to the battery, attach another loop connector to the wire and sandwich it between the positive terminal of the battery and the primary power lead. If you're going into the fuse box, you may be able to sneak a bare wire in between one of the fuses and their fuse holder. Simple friction may hold it in place. A more elegant solution would be to attach that lead to the terminal with a dab of solder. Place your lead on the incoming side of the fuse, so that your power drain doesn't go through the existing fuse and blow it.
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Needles on dash guages (temp,fuel,speed) chatter or vibrate on their lower limit pins when the ignition switch is turned on or the engine is started. After about 30 seconds the needles move to their normal...

Disconnecting the leads from the solenoid,avtivating the switch, and reading 12V is normal because you are not reading anything but the signal applied to the solenoid.You need to attach the leads and THEN activate the switch and read the voltage across the terminals.12V would mean the solenoid is good because a voltage reading is a DIFFERENCE of electrical potential.If you have the leads attached and read 0V,there is no difference of electrical potential meaning there is actually 12V on both sides and the solenoid is not absorbing/using the power like it should be.If you simply read the 2 terminals on your battery it would read 12V,likely higher because a good battery will usually read close to 13V.A bad battery may read as high as 11.8V.As for the guages,it may also be that the battery is low if it has never been changed.The average life of an alkaline car battery is about 6 years.If yours was made and sold in 2000 like they like to do these days,the battery may have been changed once and is starting to be borderline.With the car off,no keys,nothing,read across your battery terminals and please let me know what you find. gmccarthy 86 hotmail
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New battery going flat over night/Don't think it is alternator.

WITH KEY OFF and battery full charged

1. Remove positive battery cable
2. Set up volt ohm meter between the positive terminal of the battery and the cable. Make sure the meter is set to read amps. You may need to use some small spring clamps to keep the meter leads attached while doing the next step.
3. Once you have a base reading start removing fuses one at a time until you see the amp reading drop off dramatically. Make sure to jam something in the door jamb switch to make sure it remains in the "door closed" position. This is so you do not read the power drawn by the dome light. Removing the dome light is ok as long as it does not have under dash/floor lighting. Best with the switch closed so that you are getting a reading that reflects the vehicle sitting as it normally would overnight.

DO NOT TURN KEY ON WHILE YOUR METER IS SET UP LIKE THIS. It will certainly blow the fuse in the meter if not damage it permanently.
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No starter response when key is turned over. new starter and battery. all fuses and relays good. only thing left is ignition switch?

The starter is malfunction at this time. it could also be a ignition issue as well. here is a quick starter test procedure that will help you troubleshoot a bit.

Step 1
Check for 12 volts on the large wire attached to the top terminal on the starter relay. It should have battery voltage. If not, the battery, terminals or wire is bad.


Step 2
Check the small wire on the solenoid for power when the key is in the start position. Remove the small wire on the solenoid and have a helper hold the key in the start position. Check the wire for battery voltage. If there is voltage, the starter is bad. If there is no voltage, replace the wire.


Step 3
Check the fuse in the fuse box under the hood on the left fender well. If it is good, check the relay by pulling it out and checking for power at one terminal with the key off. If there is no power, the problem is in the fuse box between the fuse and the relay. If there is power, have the helper hold the key in the start position once again and check for power at another terminal from the ignition key. If there is power, the relay is bad. If there is no power, the starter circuit is suspect.


Step 4
Check to see if there is power to the neutral safety switch if there is no power at the relay. Use the voltmeter to check for power with the key in start. If there is power going in, check for power going out. If there is no power going in, the security system or ignition switch is suspect. If there is power going in and none coming out, the switch is bad. If there is power coming out, the problem is between the neutral switch and the relay.


Step 5
Remove the cover on the bottom of the steering column. Check the solid yellow wire for power when the key is in the start position. If there is no power, the ignition switch is bad.
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