Question about Samsung 26.0 Cu. Ft. Side-by-Side Refrigerator, RS265LABP

3 Answers

Samsung Model No.RS2533SW Refrigerator

The evaporator coil keeps freezing up on refrigerator side of my appliance. This refrigerator has a duel cooling system. I replaced the fan motor but that didnt help. The coil doesnt seem to have a defrost mechenism on it. Am I missing it? I go to the part web site and cant find a heater fot the coil. Can you help?

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  • andyfilm Dec 11, 2007

    I'm having the exact same problem with this refrigerator. I have to manually defrost the coils with a blow dryer every couple of weeks. Was the problem ever solved? I'm thinking this may have to do with the board becuase it sees susceptible to power surges. It will get zapped and not work occasionaly.

  • Anonymous Jan 07, 2009

    I have the same problem. Refrigerator not de-frosting. If I take the whole unit outside and clean it with water and wait, ice in refrigerator side will melt and both freezer and referigerator would work OK for a week or so. Called Samsung but they are useless.Keeps telling me to call service people. I have called them and paid $100 but service people say change evrythig like fan motors, switch on the door and board circuit. I have done that but still refregerator do not work after a week or so. Tired of moving the unit outside defrost it. Can any one in this whole univese help us. We lost food worth $500 to $800 so far.
    call me if you have answers 407 888-2142

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Here is what I did, all parts on my fridge worked, i tested all sensors and so on. so you must rule out all non-functioning parts. when defrosted I opened it and with everything plugged in, yet accessable I put it in manual defrost and could see the water drip. So i noticed it really did not get hot enough. so I put in a 2.2 Kohm resistor in seris to the thermostir.so from the samsung chart it brings it upto 90degrees vs 60. and I also took a piece of aluminum flashing and wrapped it around the upper heat tube and had it slide all the way to the drain plug, it was about 6 inches wide on the top and tapered fown to about a quater inch as it goes in the drain tostop that area from freezing up. my fridge was freezing up 3-4 weeks, and it has been 6 weeks and it has not frooooze up.

I have two of these fridges that do exactly the same thing and all parts work. So I will test the second one after i domy testing for 2-3 months and try to report back. email me if you want more details, i will post somewhere.

dean devolpi

Posted on May 31, 2011

  • 2 more comments 
  • dean devolpi Dec 02, 2011

    so my tweeks have now worked for 7-8 months. adding the heat diffusers and the resistor in series to the thermostat to change the shut off temperature of the defrost cycle. I have not had to unplug the fridge for 3 days to defrost it in all that time. when before I could not go past 3 weeks.

    So by shifting the defrost cycle to be on longer my concern was I might cause the heater element to burn out. This apparently to date has not happened which makes sense since it was not defrosting it enough. If there was going to be a problem should have had a critical failure by now. But that is why I did put in the heat diffusers in place, to prevent hot spots . I now own a cheap infrared temperature reader that would have been handy to find the hotspots ($25.00 at radio shack). I did it by touch before and found these areas to be significantly hotter. They were hot...

    I note this fix is for when the fridge coils freeze up and everything is working, that you know the defrost element works.. My fridge worked fine for years and would do this only once a year a couple years ago and escalated to every 3 weeks.

    i have pictures of this athttp://www.la-ventana.com/fridge.htm

  • dean devolpi Oct 24, 2013

    has been working without a problem now for over 2 years now. again coils use to freeze up every 2-3 months. Have two similar samsungs and both did this and both work fine. I bought my fridges used and I am assuming this is why they were sold so cheap. so about $1.00 of materials and you have it repaired.

  • dean devolpi Nov 12, 2014

    at three years now and still working great. from having to emplty it out ever few weeks-months to let it defrost to now it works fine with a 20 cent resistor and some flashing/heat pipes.

  • dean devolpi Sep 07, 2017

    6 years later still working on one fridge and I did it to a second 4 years ago. On the second one it lasted 4 or so years and the timer relay must have gone out because absolutely no voltage to the defrost coils. So I now really cheat on it, I disconnected the connection and wired it externally from the fridge to a mechanical 15 minute 120VAC timer switch that you find in home depot generally for fans in bathrooms. Everyday I set the fridge into manual defrost mode and turn on the timer for 15 minutes and it works perfectly for 1 year now. It is another Samsung model, thay seem to all operate the sameish.

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The evap coil freezing up is likely due to the defrost cycle not working. The little defrost t-stat looks like a little disc with wires coming out of epoxy. If that is swollen or the expoxy is popped up at all it's bad. You can check it for continuity if you have a multimeter. The next thing would be the defrost timer itself that is bad, the last and least likely item to fail is the heating element itself, you can also check it for the proper ohm value to make sure it's OK. http://www.partselect.com/Schematics/Maytag/SS50-8.gif

Posted on Dec 29, 2006

  • Marc Wilson
    Marc Wilson Dec 29, 2006

    Oh yeah, on the drawing item 12 & 13 are the bi-metal and thermistor. If all that is good then the control board in the back is the next culprit since it takes the info from all those sensors to decide what to do (defrost or not, etc.)

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My ice maker has stopped working. Water is not flowing to the fridge at all

Posted on Aug 09, 2009

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1 Answer

I have no cold air in my refrigerator or Freezer. It defrosted everything.


Condenser Coils are Dirty
If the refrigerator is not cold enough the condenser coils may be dirty. The condenser is like a radiator and must stay clean in order to dissipate the heat which was removed from the inside of the refrigerator. As the coils get dirtier the refrigerator becomes less efficient, which makes it work harder to cool down. If the coils are dirty enough, the unit will never be cold enough and will not be able to cool the inside of the refrigerator to the proper temperature.
Evaporator Fan Motor
If the refrigerator is not cold enough, the evaporator fan motor might have failed. Every refrigerator has a set of coils called an evaporator. The refrigerator may have one or more evaporator fan motor(s) depending on the model and evaporator locations. The evaporator fan motor circulates the cold air from the coils thru the compartment. If there is only one evaporator it is in the freezer side. If the fan is not working, no cold air will get to the refrigerator compartment. The freezer may still get cold.
Condenser Fan Motor
If the refrigerator is not cold enough there might be something caught in the condenser fan motor blade, or the condenser fan motor might be defective. The condenser fan motor draws air over the condenser coils to cool them. The condenser fan motor is located underneath the refrigerator near the back. Pull the refrigerator out from the wall and remove the access panel to access it.
Start Relay
If the refrigerator is not cold enough, the start relay may be defective. The start relay is a small device mounted to the side of the compressor. It provides power to the run winding along with the start winding for a split second at start-up to help get the compressor started. If the start relay is defective the compressor may run intermittently or not at all and the refrigerator will not get cold enough. The start relay should be replaced if defective.
Temperature Control Thermostat
If the refrigerator does not get cold enough the temperature control thermostat might be defective. The thermostat allows power to flow through to the compressor, evaporator fan and condenser fan. If the cooling system fans and compressor are running, but the refrigerator or freezer is not cooling correctly check for an airflow or defrost system problem.
Start Capacitor
If the refrigerator isn't cold enough the compressor might be having difficulty starting. The start capacitor serves as a battery to give the compressor a little boost during start-up. If the start capacitor is burned out the compressor might not be able to start and run as often as it should. Test the start capacitor first with a capacitance meter, they don't fail often. If it's defective, replace it.
Thermistor
If the refrigerator is not cold enough the thermistor might be defective. The thermistor is a sensor which monitors the air temperature. It is connected to the control board. If the thermistor is defective the refrigerator does not cool or may cool continuously.
Temperature Control Board
If the refrigerator is not cold enough the temperature control board might be defective. The temperature control board provides the voltage to the fan motors and compressor. These boards are often misdiagnosed. Check all other components to be certain this is the cause of the problem.
Compressor
If the refrigerator is not cold enough, the compressor might be defective. The compressor is a motor which compresses the refrigerant and circulates the refrigerant through the evaporator and condenser coils. There are several other components which are more likely to be defective if the compressor doesn't work. If the compressor itself is defective a licensed professional will need to replace it.
Main Control Board
If the refrigerator is not cold enough the main control board might be defective. This is not common. Check the defrost system, cooling fans, and cooling controls first.

Jun 28, 2017 | Refrigerators

1 Answer

I have a side by side whirlpool fridge and the freezer is fine but the fridge is now freezing everything. It's about 11 years old.


Since you stand to loose all the food I would call a service tech ASAP. But here are the most common reasons for the problem you have.
Cause 1
The Evaporator Coils are Frosted Over The defrost heater assembly turns on a few times throughout the day to melt away any frost that may have accumulated on the evaporator coils. If the defrost heater assembly is defective, frost will continue to accumulate on the evaporator coils, and the coils will become plugged with frost. If the evaporator coils are frosted over, the airflow through the coils will be restricted, causing the refrigerator not to cool. Check the evaporator coils to determine if they are frosted over. If the evaporator coils are frosted over, test each component of the defrost system.
Cause 2
Evaporator Fan Motor The evaporator fan motor draws cold air over the evaporator coils and circulates it throughout the freezer. If the evaporator fan is not working, the freezer or refrigerator will not cool adequately. To determine if the evaporator fan motor is defective, try turning the fan blade by hand. If the fan blade does not turn freely, replace the fan motor. Additionally, if the motor is unusually noisy, replace it. Finally, if the motor does not run at all, use a multimeter to test the motor windings for continuity. If the windings do not have continuity, replace the evaporator fan motor..
Cause 3
Damper Control Assembly The air damper control opens and closes to let the proper amount of cold air into the refrigerator compartment. If the damper does not open properly, it won't let enough cold air into the refrigerator. Check the damper control to determine if it is broken or stuck closed.

Nov 19, 2016 | Whirlpool Refrigerators

1 Answer

FREEZER COOLING OK BUT FRIDGE LOW COOLING


Remember that most all refrigerators only have cooling to the freezer... the refrigerator depends on stealing some of that cold to be cool, so here's my top 3 guesses...
Cause 1 The defrost heater is defective, so frost accumulates on the evaporator coils, and the coils will become plugged with frost causing the airflow through the coils to be restricted, and the refrigerator not to cool. Check the evaporator coils to determine if they are frosted over. If the evaporator coils are frosted over, test each component of the defrost system after clearing any restrictions to the cooling fan and defrosting with a hair dryer.
Cause 2
The evaporator fan motor draws cold air over the evaporator coils and circulates it throughout the freezer. If the evaporator fan is not working, the freezer or refrigerator will not cool adequately. To determine if the evaporator fan motor is defective, try turning the fan blade by hand. If the fan blade does not turn freely, bench test it for function and use a multimeter to test the motor windings for continuity. If the windings do not have continuity, (very odd) replace the evaporator fan motor.
Cause 3
Damper Control Assembly The air damper control opens and closes to let the proper amount of cold air into the refrigerator compartment. If the damper does not open properly, it won't let enough cold air into the refrigerator. Check the damper control to determine if it is broken or stuck closed or that an inadvertent bump has shut it off to the refrigerator compartment

Apr 09, 2016 | White-Westinghouse WRSZ28V8GM Side-by-Side...

3 Answers

Hotpoint refridgeerator not cooling HSS251FMD


Sounds like a Freon leak. How old is the unit? You will have to decide if it's worth fixing or to replace. GOOD LUCK FRIEND.

Nov 15, 2014 | Refrigerators

1 Answer

The fan is working. The fridge, freezer & coils are not iced up. There is good room for air circulation. I vacuumed most of the dust from the coils, etc. The compressor is just slightly warm to the...


Good day to you sir John,


A refrigerator or freezer that doesn't cool well enough may have a problem with its evaporator coils, condenser, or condenser fan motor. Frost build-up on evaporator coils, or condenser coils that are covered with dirt, dust, or lint can reduce how well a refrigerator can cool. If you notice ice getting thicker on the inside walls, inside bottom, or inside ceiling of the freezer, you have what is called a frost build-up. The problem is either with warm, moist air getting in through an old inefficient door gasket or the defrost system. Self-defrosting refrigerators have coils and a cooling fan that need to be cleaned regularly. If the coils get coated with any contaminants, they may not cool the refrigerator properly. The coils are usually thin and black and they go through fins that dissipate heat, just like a car's radiator. They are located behind the lower kick-panel or on the back of the refrigerator. To clean them, turn the power off and use this condenser coil cleaning brush, or this condenser coil cleaning brush, and your vacuum cleaner. Even if your coils are below the refrigerator, you won't be able to get to all the condenser coils from the front, so it's a good idea to pull the refrigerator out and clean the coils from the front and the rear of the refrigerator. Give the fan a dusting as well. Sometimes other things can be the reason behind poor cooling, like the condenser fan motor. Anytime the freezer fan is running, the condenser fan should also be running.
A frost build-up inside the refrigerator usually means that there is a problem in the self-defrost system. You may even have damaged door gaskets. When you open the refrigerator door, you also let in a blast of warm, often humid air. This moisture usually freezes onto the evaporator coils immediately. Self-defrost refrigerators are supposed to self-defrost between two and four times out of every 24 hour time-frame. They basically turn off for a few minutes several times a day. A defrost heater kicks on to melt any frost build-up on these coils, which allows the frost and ice to melt, then it drains off to the pan underneath most refrigerators. Unfortunately, when a defrost component fails, too much frost builds up on the evaporator coils. When this happens, the circulating fan can't draw air over these coils. With no air flow over the evaporator coils, the refrigerator compartment will lose its cool.
To determine if the self defrost system is faulty, it's best to remove all the food from the refrigerator and freezer, turn your thermostat to the Off setting, and just leave the doors open for 24 to 48 hours, and let the refrigerator defrost. Keep an eye out for an overflow of water from the drip pan on the bottom of the refrigerator.
After everything has completely melted away, set the thermostat back to a regular setting. If your refrigerator starts operating properly, the symptoms lead to there being a problem with one of three other components in the self-defrosting system, the defrost heater, the defrost timer, or the defrost thermostat.
If, after testing these components, the refrigerator still doesn't get your foods cool, there may be a problem with the refrigerant level and you will need to contact a professional appliance repair person.

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Oct 23, 2011 | Frigidaire PLHT217TA Top Freezer...

1 Answer

There is ice forming on the evaporator coils of my GE Monogram refrigerator. This is the "all-refrigerator" model (ZIRS36NMDLH). There appear to be two 'thermodisc'. One thermodisc is...


Hi.

When the back of the freezer is icing up you need to test the defrost system, which is responsible for the problem . The evaporator coils freeze up because the defrost system is not working. this results in compressor and fan running most of the time and in reduced or no cooling, particularly in the fresh food section. The freezer may still be cooling.

Defrost system problems are quite a common issue with refrigerators. Coils freeze because of a defective defrost system. With coils frozen the condenser will go under stress and will loose efficiency. The result is the system not producing enough cold to refrigerate the fresh food section while the freezer section instead keeps working.

Try disconnecting power overnight. Allow the freezer to defrost with power off. If the fridge works after that you have a defective defrost system. In that case the problem may come back after a couple of days. To fix the problem the parts comprised in defrost system must be tested, so to find and replace the defective part.

The defrost system comprises defrost thermostat, heater, defrost control and fan. The parts that fail more commonly are thermostat and heater. Both parts are located behind freezer firewall and tested reading impedance with a multimeter. Element and thermostat are faulty if they return Ohms infinity (the circuit is open) when reading impedance with a multimeter at the part's contact.

If thermostat and element are OK, the next part to be tested is the fan. Fan can be tested by simply checking that the motor is running when energized.

Here a tip explaining how to deal with a similar problem on a different fridge model: Fridge not cooling. Procedure is similar with your model.

Here all parts and diagrams for your model.

You can also find parts and diagrams for most appliances using the links listed on this page:
Where do I find parts and diagrams for my appliance?

Regards.


Ginko

Aug 22, 2011 | GE Refrigerators

2 Answers

Side-by-side refrigerator - freezer is working just fine, but the refrigerator is not cooling.


Hi,

Check out these tips...they can help you figure out what is going wrong with your refrigerator and why it is not cooling

Refrigerator not Cooling or Fridge not Cooling

How to Defrost Refrigerator Defrost Timer Problem

Water Running in refrigerator from Freezer


Refrigerator or Freezer not Cooling or Getting Cold


heatman101





...

Dec 27, 2010 | GE GSL25JFPBS Side by Side Refrigerator

1 Answer

Is the heater timer on ge refrigerators with computer boards, locayed in the computer board? does the whole board have to be changed also? the heater and the thermostat have been changed but, the...


There are four things that will cause this problem and they are the defrost thermostat, defrost heater, evaporator thermistor and the main board. This page will help http://appliance-repair-it.com/GE-refrigerator-repair.html

Also yes, the board is the timer.

Sep 14, 2010 | GE Profile 26.6 cu. ft. Side-by-Side...

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