I got in the car and it started just fine. When I backed out of the parking space and put it in drive, it just died. Then would not start at all. My son checked and found a blown fuse. When it was replaced and I turned the key, it blew the fuse again. Seems like there is a short somewhere.
Probably a short from the battery to stater. Maybe have come in contact with exhaust and melted. Is it a Chevy
SOURCE: 1994 toyota corolla blowing AM2 30A fuse under the hood
On top of the cover of the fuses it will tell you what that fuse was for. Odds are whatever it is, is shorting out and will need to be replaced.
SOURCE: Just recently my 98 Toyota Corrolla has started blowing a fuse.
I would remove the dome light, and disconnect the wiring connector, and then put in another fuse. If it does not blow, I would think that the dome light switch is shorted to ground.
SOURCE: EFI Short
My Toyota 4-Runner did the exact same thing and we found that the wire harness for the O-2 sensor fell onto the catalytic converter and melted causing it to groung out and blow the EFI fuse. Repaired the wires and no problems!
SOURCE: I have a 1991 toyota celica gt.I parked the car
He didn't ask what might have gone wrong. Would have been more helpful if you'd told him to replace alternator diodes or the alternator itself.
SOURCE: 1989 toyota land cruiser.driving on
Hi.
Re:new battery and altenator
If engine turns over battery and altenator are OK.
Re:checked the fuses and found a few were blown.
Effectively those may be symptoms of a wiring problem. If a job had been carried recently, undoing and re-connecting the wires to access the part(eg. alternator) may have contributed to the problem.
Check all fuses, with attention to fuel pump fuse. Check the connectors
to fuel pump, eventually read volts at pump and nsure that fuel is
circulating
Check air intake and connectors to air intake sensors (MAF sensor), check connection to crank sensor and O2 sensors.
The blown fuses may also have been incidental. If you did not find anything, troubleshooting must proceed as usual, checking distribution, fuel pressure, and then factors that can affect the ignition.
Remember that after a prolonged and failed attempt to crank the vehicle, the cylinders will be flooded and the car will no start (wet plugs- no spark).
Check if there is spark on all cylinders. This can be done removing one by one the spark plugs wires and putting them near to the engine block while someone else try cranking. You will see the spark.
If there is no spark, then you have a coil/distribution problem. test coil by reading volts in and impedance (coil must not be open). I think this engine is not distributorless. Check distributor cap and wires. If you have disconnected spark plug wires after the problem, also ensure that wires are connected in right order.
Once you are sure that there is spark, check fuel delivery and engine control. This part will take longer.
I uploaded here engine control diagrams and other documents that may help.
Regards.
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