Using Nikon SB-800 with sync cord
By Rachel007 - usenet poster
Hi,
I want to mount my SB-800 on a flash bracket mounted to my Nikon D70,
and use a remote cord to connect the hot shoes. I'm a bit confused
about which cord to use, the SB-28 or the SB-29 (the 29 has the red AF
assist illuminator function, the 28 does not). Since there is already
an AF assist in the SB-800, do I need it again built into the cord?
Best Solution
posted on Aug 04, 2005
Grant - usenet poster
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On 15 Feb 2005 06:47:40 -0800, "gigaboy" <m @markleder.com> wrote:
Eh?
The SB-28 and SB-29 are speedlights, not cords....
...Ah, got it. You mean SC-28 and SC-29. Slight difference.
The AF assist light source needs a clear view from the flash to the
subject. The only time you wouldn't need it is if you can guarantee
the SB-800 AF assist will be able to properly illuminate the subject
from wherever you are mounting it. Presuming your flash bracket
achieves this, you *don't* need the SC-29.
Me, I'd buy the SC-29 anyway because it will give you the freedom to
have an assistant hold the SB-800 in any orientation, concentrating
solely on the flash direction, rather than worrying about the AF
assist function. More options, that's all.
$85 vs $65, it's a no brainer.
Out of interest, what bracket are you looking at / do you have?
--
Owamanga!
Eh?
The SB-28 and SB-29 are speedlights, not cords....
...Ah, got it. You mean SC-28 and SC-29. Slight difference.
The AF assist light source needs a clear view from the flash to the
subject. The only time you wouldn't need it is if you can guarantee
the SB-800 AF assist will be able to properly illuminate the subject
from wherever you are mounting it. Presuming your flash bracket
achieves this, you *don't* need the SC-29.
Me, I'd buy the SC-29 anyway because it will give you the freedom to
have an assistant hold the SB-800 in any orientation, concentrating
solely on the flash direction, rather than worrying about the AF
assist function. More options, that's all.
$85 vs $65, it's a no brainer.
Out of interest, what bracket are you looking at / do you have?
--
Owamanga!
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Solution #2
posted on Nov 09, 2007
WizIf you move the flash off camera, you will find that the AF illuminator on the flash won't line up with the AF sensors so well at close ranges. This may mean you want the cord with the illuminator built in.
I wouldn't advise using the wireless option as it causes extra shutter lag.
I wouldn't advise using the wireless option as it causes extra shutter lag.
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Solution #4
posted on Aug 04, 2005
Kim1 - usenet poster
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The D70 can remote-control the SB-800 without any cords. Does that not
work for this application? (You do need to pop up the built-in flash,
though it doesn't contribute to the actual exposure.)
--
Jeremy | jer @exit109.com
work for this application? (You do need to pop up the built-in flash,
though it doesn't contribute to the actual exposure.)
--
Jeremy | jer @exit109.com
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Solution #5
posted on Aug 04, 2005
kcw573 - usenet poster
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On Tue, 15 Feb 2005 19:41:17 -0000, Jeremy Nixon <jer @exit109.com>
wrote:
The AF assist in your example would be coming from that nasty white
light on the D70. Yes, it would work in full iTTL mode, but no, it
would not be perfect. The SB-800 red AF assist is much nicer, of
course it would be even nicer if it was completely IR & invisible to
the subject.
It's also worth noting that if the subject is highly reflective, the
D70 command flash can be seen in the image (it still flashes, just at
low power).Not a problem for lit scenes but might give unwanted
shadows if the scene starts off pitch black. I believe the use of an
IR filter on the flash would help if it ever became a problem. The
sync cable is a more reliable solution.
--
Owamanga!
wrote:
The AF assist in your example would be coming from that nasty white
light on the D70. Yes, it would work in full iTTL mode, but no, it
would not be perfect. The SB-800 red AF assist is much nicer, of
course it would be even nicer if it was completely IR & invisible to
the subject.
It's also worth noting that if the subject is highly reflective, the
D70 command flash can be seen in the image (it still flashes, just at
low power).Not a problem for lit scenes but might give unwanted
shadows if the scene starts off pitch black. I believe the use of an
IR filter on the flash would help if it ever became a problem. The
sync cable is a more reliable solution.
--
Owamanga!
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Solution #6
posted on Aug 04, 2005
Janice - usenet poster
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Thanks for the reply. I'll keep my SB-29.
I originally purchased the Tiffen/Stroboframe Camera Flip. Used it for
a day, didn't like, too heavy, the camera flipping mechanism is bulky
and the camera tends to shift even though I tightened the flipping
mechanism screws. Liked the grip on the side. Can't stand up the
camera and flash on a table.
I'm returning it for the T/S Pro-T which flips the flash, not the
camera. We'll see how that one works. An anti-slip plate is a MUST
for any of these T/S brackets.
I originally purchased the Tiffen/Stroboframe Camera Flip. Used it for
a day, didn't like, too heavy, the camera flipping mechanism is bulky
and the camera tends to shift even though I tightened the flipping
mechanism screws. Liked the grip on the side. Can't stand up the
camera and flash on a table.
I'm returning it for the T/S Pro-T which flips the flash, not the
camera. We'll see how that one works. An anti-slip plate is a MUST
for any of these T/S brackets.
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