- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
If you can't find or follow the wiring diagram and have or use a tester you shouldn't even be trying to fix it. Find a parts breakdown and then the location of the parts should be pretty easy to find.
assuming the motor is shot is not the way to go about a repair.
goin for the plug with the diagram to find the problem with the correct meter for the task before you.
it sounds like the control board is going bad but i wouldn't buy any parts for this dryer,soon you won't be able to get parts for it,put the money into a new dryer not to mention that the neptune products is what took maytag out and now whirlpool owns maytag.you could also have a problem with one of the connections or a bad wire in one of the connections and when you move the wires it's working again and this could be from the heat,after years the wires get brittle,you could buy the new board,put it in and if it's a wire you're back to square one,but from what you say it's either a wire in one of the connections or the board.good luck with your dryer.
To change from a three to a four wire cord you will need to remove the ground wire/strap that is currently connected to the center connection at the back of the dryer. This ground wire is going to look like a flat piece of either copper or aluminum that connects to the center peg and is screwed to the dyer cabinet right next to the cord terminal block SAVE THE SCREW. Doing this separates the electrical neutral and the cabinet ground.
Now when connecting the four wire cord, put the red and black wires on the outer connection posts (does not matter which goes on which side) and the white neutral wire connects to the center connector. The green or sometimes green with yellow stripe wire from the cord will connect to the cabinet where the ground strap you removed used to connect use the same screw that you removed earlier.
there are screws that hold the frame that holds the panel in place. they are usually 3 at the top of the oven. after removing them you take that piece off and you then take out the other screws that show themselves. it is kind of like a puzzle. one suggestion is to make a crude.drawing on cardboard of the oven and stick the screws thru the cardboard and then you will know where they go when you put it back together. learned that trick the hard way. and make a drawing of the back of the oven control board and make a diagram of it that shows where each wire goes so you will not get them mixed up when you put the new one in. we had to order the wiring harness that goes from the control board to the oven thermostat. it was back ordered for 3 months. if i had not made that diagram i would have been lost when i went to put it back together. went online and found an oven control board for $120 installed it and the oven has worked ever since. this oven has a bad setup that channels the heat right by the oven board and it ruins the control board.
Remove the broken belts and take then with you to a local appliance parts store. Also write down the make, model & serial # of the unit to ensure the correct part can be found on the shelves, and ordered if not in stock. If you need assistance putting the belts back on, let us know.
If the unit is still under warranty, you can get Maytag at 1 (800) 344-1274 U.S. to pay for them too. If it is, you should call Maytag directly to get the free replacement parts. I found your owner's manual and it says any part on the dryer is guaranteed for 1 year. Here's the link below.
This is correct. When using a three wire cord, you leave the tab in place and this ties the neutral and ground together.
With a four wire cord arrangement, you remove the tie tab. The white (neutral) wire goes to the middle terminal, and the green goes to the chassis ground. The hot wires will always be the outside leads and connect to the outside terminals.
Best regards, --W/D--
Always disconnect electricity before beginning this process.
All the 4 wire cords I have seen are color-coded. The white wire goes to the middle terminal, the green wire goes to any screw you can reach that goes into the metal case of the dyer. The red and black go to the outside terminals of the block and while it doesn't matter which color goes to which terminal I usually follow the color code of the interior dryer wiring that already exists. Good Luck.
Pull the knob off, some units have a set screw that holds it inplace but most are just tight fit. May need to pry it off. The screw that holds the control in the front plate is under the knob. Take the back plate off which is just behind the control. label the wires as you remove them or unplug one wire and put it on the same plug on the new control.