I need some general info on this camera's specs; i.e., film speed
I'd like to know what film speeds this camera will handle, in particular, and would also like some general specifications on the TL 125. I just acquired one and it seems to work just fine, at this point.
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Re: I need some general info on this camera's specs;...
Vivitar TL-125 was popular around Christmas 1988. Good to see your is still going strong!
In terms of ASA ratings, it would depend on whether the model has DX coding (which you would find as a set of gold pins in the bay where you put the film cassette.... If it has, then the asa range would be 50 - 1600 asa. If it hasn't, then Vivitar used to put a small selector on the baseplate of the camera to switch between 100 and 400 asa.
As a rule of thumb, I'd always use 400 asa film in this type of camera.... the extra two stops of speed far outweigh the loss of picture quality - especially with point and shoot zoom lenses.
I can't find a specific manual (no one seems to stockpile them), but if you can read a generic one, try the Vivitar point and shoot here : http://www.butkus.org/chinon/vivitar.htm
(Note, I think you use a different sort of battery, but the controls and placings are all very similar between models).
If you need an original manual, then Oldtimer cameras will sell you an electronic download, or there is an original coming up on eBay in the USA in the next couple of days (with a camera - for spares). If you were really cheeky, you could ask the vendor to scan it in for you.
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You generally need to overexpose a stop or two. Without knowing the model of your Canon, I can't give you specific instructions. If your camera has an exposure compensation feature, you can use it. If not, you'll have to set the film speed lower by a stop or two.
The Nikon F3 uses standard 35mm film, also known as 135. The type of film you use is up to you. You can use black&white film, color transparency (color slides), or color negative (color prints). Prints are generally cheaper than slides but slide films generally produce better results, and prints can be made from slides. You can also make black&white pictures from color films, though obviously you can't go the other way. These films are available in a variety of speeds. Faster films let you shoot in lower light and/or with a faster shutter speed for stopping action, but slower films have finer grain. Different films also have different color properties. No film (or digital sensor, for that matter) reproduces every color exactly. You may need to experiment in order to see which film gives you the colors you like for the types of pictures you like to take.
The film you need is depend also for the particular occasion you gonna use your camera. If you gonna shoot on sports arena where there is a lot of action, you need a high speed film say "ISO 500" film and those type of film depends on the availability of brand of film in your area or country. Try to canvass in your local photo supply in your area. I hope this advice help you.
Depending on how new your Minolta SLR film camera was, the lens may or may not work on a Minolta Digital SLR. In many cases, a lens with the correct mount (in this case, a Minolta mount) can be used on the same brand of camera in the digital format.
One thing you should know is that DSLR sensors are, generally speaking, smaller than the size of a 35mm film negative. Long story short, that means that your lens will have a magnification factor on the DSLR. Usually, it is in the range of 150%, so a 70-300 lens from a film camera would cover 105 to 450 on a Digital SLR.
To be sure about the mount, you'll need to seek advice specific to Minoltas -- probably best to take your lens to a local camera shop and see for sure if it fits and what features will work (aperature, auto-focus, etc) and which won't work on the DSLR.
Sounds like you are having some photo taking issues. There is a rule of thumb for shooting, It is the focal length must be equal to or less than the shutter speed. Example. 100 mm lens must have 1/100 of a second or faster when hand holding a camera. If your shots are too blurry or out of focus, try using faster film speed, ie. 400 asa or 800 or 1600, try using a flash if you are going to be at 1/60 a second. The faster the film you use, allows you to have a faster shutter speed. Another option is to use a tripod, and then your shutter speed is irrelevant.
There doesn't seem to be a pattern with any of the Fuji films (I use Sensia and Velvia, exclusively, and have never had a problem in my Canon EOS). There are reports that the Fuji Pro films will gum up the sprockets in a camera, thanks to an adhesive strip at the end of the roll, but I'm not sure if the regular 400 speed film has the same problem. You might try a thorough cleaning, and see if it is still happening. I'm not surprised that 400 speed comes out a tad dark. Try dropping to 200 speed (I generally won't use anything above 100 speed, unless it is black&while).
Action shots generally require a fast shutter speed -- to freeze the motion. So you need plenty of light or a "fast" lens. A fast lens is one in which the aperture opens further to let in more of light. The smaller the number of the maximum aperture, the faster the lens, so a 28-105mm f/3.5-4.5 lens is "faster" than a 28-105mm f/4.0-5.6 lens. But usually, faster lenses cost more.
For the settings on the camera, the Rebel K2 has a Sports image mode (silhouette of a runner) on the control dial which should get you appropriate settings for most action shots.
If you want to set the shutter speed yourself use the Tv mode, and with a fixed shutter speed, the camera will set the correct aperture. Watch in the viewfinder -- if the aperture value is flashing, it means the shot will be underexposed. You will have to select a slower shutter speed.
Another way to get action shots with limited light or a "slower" lens is to use film with higher ISO/ASA. ISO 100 film is good for daylight shots, but for inside shots or evening shots, use ISO 400 film. Higher ISO film is "grainier", so enlargements will show less detail.