If you get 120 volts to the ignitor, then the ignitor will glow ,if not you have a bad ignitor. the valve should have continuity through the the 2 connections.. its poosible to have 110v to ground at ignitor, the only way you get 110v you need to check power across the 2 wires to the ignitor( not to ground), and this will not happen with a bad safety vavle
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either the gas valve is bad or the ignitor/glow coil is bad,most likely the glow coil as gas valves don't fail,but both are in a series circuit and rely on each other to operate and light the flame,check both with a continuity tester and if they show resistance they are good,but get the specifications on how much resistance on the gas valve and NEVER connect the gas valve alone or directly to 120 volts a.c.
The problem beleive it or not is that the bake ignitor is weak ,and it is not drawing the proper amprage to open the gas valve.If you have a amp meter access the wires to the bake ignitor(usually behind the storage drawer) and check for 3.3-3.6 amps when oven is set to bake by clamping the meter around ONE wire wire of ignitor make sure only one wire,either one and not both. if amp draw less than 3.3-3.6 amps replace bake ignitor. I know it seems improbable that if the ignotor comes on that it could be the problem.Professional appliance technicians who would charge a average of $250.00 to repair your oven,have found when the ignitor comes on yet the oven won't heat that a weak ignitor is the cause 100% of the time
hmmm im a bit conflicted here the ignitor does indeed come on yet there is only 2.4 vac to it hmm,it operates at 120vac and there is no way the ignitor would come on at only 2.4 vac so i suspect that your misreading the meter and it is 110-120 vac and that eliminates all other possibilites and the ignitor is weak is weak and not pulling the required 3.2-3.6 amps to open the gas valve if you have a amp clamp is to one of the wires and if it is below 3.2 amps replace the ignitor then enjoy your baked meal
Most probable cause is a weak bake burner ignitor,if you can remove the floor of the oven and see a orange glow but within one minute thier is no flame the ignitor that glows is weak and needs to be replaced,if no glow at all ,if your capable find the 2 wires to the bake ignitor,using a volt meter set to AC volts there should be 120vac to the ignitor. If their is 120 vac and absolutly no glow the ignitor is cracked and needs to be replaced,if their is not 120 vac it could be the gas safety valve or control
Replace the igniter anyway. As they age, they tend to get "weak", drawing less amperage, and thus not allowing the gas safety valve to open. This is even more noticable if you have lower voltage (say 114 volts, instead of 120 or 125 volts)
Oven ignitors are not the "clicking" variety - they use a hot surface ignitor and "feed through" to a current sensing gas valve - in short, if the ignitor is going bad, then the gas valve won't open (safety). Try replacing the HSI in the bottom of your oven - do an online search and match up model and serial of your unit to the part. Be careful no to touch or break the new ignitor - VERY FRAGILE!!!
Make sure you have 120 volts to the oven wiring terminal. Could be a completely broken ignitor this time. Disconnect the ignitor wires and attach a volt meter to the incoming ignitor wires. Turn the oven on. If you read 120 volts the ignitor is bad. If you read no voltage the oven control is bad.
Sounds as though the pilot light in your oven went out. On the inside of the oven there should be a small hole about the size of a 50cent piece on the floor of the oven. Turn on the gas for the oven, light a matchstick or rolled up piece of paper, stick it into that hole and it should light, monitor the oven for 30 seconds to see if it starts to heat. SAFETY 1st!
According to the model number you supplied it looks like your oven use a glow bar ignitor not a pilot light. In that case there is no place to hold a fire. what happens with these when you turn the oven on 120 volts goes to the ignitor causing it to heat up ,the amp draw across the ignitor causes the gas safety valve to open, and then lights the gas. So if you turn your oven on you should see a bright red glow if not probably the the ignitor, to check it you would have to verify you actually have power going to it. If the ignitor glows but the gas valve does not open you will still need to replace the ignitor has to pull about 3.2 amps across ignitor to open safety valve. Your broil burner works the same way. And most of the ovens the floor of the oven comes out to allow easier acess to the ignitor. also if you have to change the ignitor put just a dab of dish detergent on the screws to help from stripping them