Question about Coustic Car Audio 401SE Car Audio Amplifier

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Amp plays but pulses when bridged

I have a coustic 400 watt amp and i accendently grounded the output to the car while the amp was playing. . the amp was bridged during this incident. . now as soon as i turn it on and it gets feed from the rca jacks it starts pulsing. . but it plays fine when its unbridged. . i know i blew somethng but im not sure what. im fairly good with electronic repairs but not when it comes to amps . any help would be greatly appreciated

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4 Suggested Answers

  • 631 Answers

SOURCE: coustic 601se power on but bad sound

This is generally caused when there are blown output transistors but that generally causes the fuse to blow or causes the amp to go into protect mode.

If you connect a 15 amp fuse in series with the main power wire and it blows when remote voltage is applied, the amp is drawing excessive current. The problem could be either in the power supply or audio circuits.

Do NOT apply power without having the transistors clamped TIGHTLY to the heatsink. They can fail in seconds when there is a problem. The heatsink helps protect them.

The following page may be helpful when troubleshooting.

Amplifier Repair Primer

Let me know if you have any other questions.

Posted on Aug 23, 2008

informatica
  • 1113 Answers

SOURCE: Car Amplifier

Hi - You can download the manual by clicking the link underlined in blue below:

Coustic 480

b25e186.jpg


So the startup red led shows an over current condition, if your sure the speakers are OK then you will need to go "under the hood". The best start for this is the following web site:

Basic Car Audio Electronics

This will give you a basic guide to troubleshoot the amp.

Please take a moment to rate this solution & let us know if the information given was useful to you - Good Luck!

Informatica



Please take a moment to rate this solution & let us know if the information given was useful to you - Good Luck!

Informatica

Posted on Sep 08, 2008

Professor_V
  • 81 Answers

SOURCE: every time i hook up my coustic car amp the radio

THE GOAL HEAR IS TO DETERMINE IF THE INSTALLATION IS CAUSING YOUR PROTECTION FAULT OR IS IT THE RADIO OR AMPLIFIER ITSELF HAVING INTERNAL DAMAGE. REMOVE THE RCA INPUTS AND DISCONNECT THE SPEAKERS, THEN POWER THE AMPLIFIER UP WITH THIS NO INPUT, NO SPEAKER LOAD CONDITION. IF IT STILL POWERS UP ON ITS OWN, THEN REMOVE THE REMOTE TERMINAL COMING FROM THE RADIO. IF THE AMPLIFIER SHUTS OFF, THEN YOU MAY HAVE A SHORTED TURN-ON TRANSISTOR WITHIN THE RADIO AND IT IS OUTPUTTING THE DC NEEDED TO TURN THE AMPLIFIER ON. IF YOU REMOVE THE REMOTE TURN-ON FROM THE RADIO TO THE AMPLIFIER AND THE AMPLIFIER STAYS ON, THEN THIS POINTS TO A FAULT WITHIN THE AMPLIFIER AND IT WILL NEED TO BE SERVICED. MAKES SURE THAT THE AMPLIFIER AND RADIO GROUNDS ARE 100%. LET ME KNOW IF YOU NEED FURTHER ASSISTANCE.....V

Posted on Jan 16, 2010

  • 147 Answers

SOURCE: Sound turns on and off.

Amp is probably going into protection mode, or does not have enough current from the power wire to continue operating. Check that the speaker wires are not shorting out against each other. Also check your power wire and ground wire. Ensure that the amp is solidly grounded. Are you using the proper gauge of power and ground wire? (4awg recommended.)

Posted on Mar 12, 2011

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How many watts is this amp


Specifications Power Output: 100 Watts RMS x 2 channels at 4 Ohms ≤ 1% THD+N Signal-to-Noise Ratio: 80 dBA (reference: 1 W output) Additional Power Output: 200 Watts RMS x 2 channels at 2 Ohms ≤ 1% THD+N
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That is pretty much saying that the amp's power supply is shorted or at least has a low resistance path to ground which is causing the fuses on the amp to blow. The amp has protection circuitry to prevent damage to the output stage so that is not what is causing this. Is the amp new?

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Not a problem just a question


  • 100 watts RMS x 2 at 4 ohms
  • 200 watts RMS x 2 at 2 ohms
  • 400 watts RMS x 1 at 4 ohms in bridged mode
  • stereo or bridged mono output
  • 4-ohm stable in bridged mode
  • Tri-Way capable
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  • 50-250 Hz high-pass/low-pass (12 dB/octave) crossovers
  • wired remote included for fingertip control of Punch Bass (0-18 dB boost at 45 Hz)
  • MOSFET power supply and output devices
  • MEHSA mounting technology increases the heat transfer from the MOSFET output devices to the heat sink, for higher power output, lower operating temperatures, and greater reliability
  • TOPAZ — noise-killing differential inputs that eliminate 80% of ground loop noise
  • Trans•ana circuitry keeps preamp voltages low and signal paths simple for outstanding audio quality
  • NOMAD — advanced protection circuitry for "intelligent" shutdown protection
  • speaker- and preamp-level inputs
  • 11-1/8"W x 2-3/8"H x 9-7/8"D


  • Wire your sub in bridged mode (4 ohm mono)
    + to + on amplifier
    - to - on amplifier
    (using bridging terminals)

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    2 subs and 1 amp

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    Hi Trim God,

     

    I do not reccommend that you push the Pioneer speakers over 100 watts.  The jenson will already drown the car with bass through your pioneers so much you will want to turn off the bass boost when playing some low bass hip hop songs. It changes from one venue of song to another, so I just keep the jenson bass boost off and use my head unit to adjsut the sound to fit my listening prefences. I am telling you man, you will be blown away .  Hook up the pioneers straight to the Channels,. do not bridge.  I put Subs in my truck though.  I used the Pass output to send the audio to me Jenson 2 Channel 600W amp. I drive one 10 inch enclosed JBL Class A/B Sub. I bridged the output of the 600 W amp to the 10 inch sub  in my Z28.  The pioneers never get drowned out.  I did smoke my 2 channel Amp one time. and also took out a MTD 10inch sub. I am talk shooting flames and smoked the whole car up. I think if you bride the XA4150 to the pioneers, you will have the flaming smoke problem in no time.  

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