Question about GE GSD4500G Built-in Dishwasher
Once the rinse cycle is complete and the draing cycle starts, the water begins draining through the Air gap. I have the hole in the air gap cover pointed towards the sink, so that is where the water is coming out. What causes this? I checked the line from the air gap to the disposal and it is clear.
On many Dishwashers at the bottom ( remove lower rack ) is usually a metal mesh screen Under that screen is the pump inlet .When the screen gets clogged up or even restricted .It will either slow drain ,and or spit it out the breather hole on the air gap .So i think the issue is inside the dishwasher .If its a newer SS tub Then the mesh screen should be metal .However if its plastic then it will be a plastic screen Hard water deposits along with food particles can clog the pump screen
Posted on Jan 19, 2018
A 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
The service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Dishwasher doesn't drain
Greg, if the model number ends in GO1, your dishwasher has a piston nut assy. thats problably giving you the grief. If this assy. goes bad you will have water left in the tub at the end of the wash. A common GE problem. It's located under the filter screen in the back and just unscrews out. Part number is wd24x199. It's an easy fix. Look up the part on the net to get an idea of what it looks like. Catriver..post back.
Posted on Jan 27, 2007
It sounds like you have an Air Gap...a separate device that is used to prevent back flow into the DW. Take off the top of the air gap and see if it is gunked up and or clean it with a shop vac...as well disconnect the line to the drain evac it as well... also there is a reservoir in the back that is attached to the drain pump...take the screws out...see that it is clean and free of debris...be careful as glass or other particles can be in there. Also have you had a new dispoal installed if so the drain plug may not have been removed. As i read more I am certain you have an air gap...make sure it is cleaned and free from obstruction....if this does not solve the problem...here are some other GE specifc things and a link to help......
1. Air gap / Drain hoses
If there is an air gap (located in the sink, near the faucet), check to see if it is clogged. Unscrew the top cap and see if there is anything blocking inside. Note: If there is no air gap installed, the dishwasher might not drain properly.
If the drain hose is clogged, the dishwasher would not drain. If there is an air gap installed, it is very common that a hose going from the air gap into the garbage disposer is clogged. Remove and clean the hose. Make sure to reattach the hose before starting the dishwasher.
Note: If you recently had a garbage disposer installed, it is common to overlook removing the drain plug.
2. Broken belt
Some dishwasher models use a belt to drive the pump. Replace the belt if found broken.
Note: Sometimes the belt would just come off the pump. Even though it might not be broken, it is recommended that you replace the belt, because it is probably too stretched out.
Some models have two impellers inside the pump - one, wash impeller, takes care of the wash cycles, the other, drain impeller, drains the water out. If the drain impeller is broken (broken blades, shaft), the dishwasher would not drain. Replace any broken pump components.
4. Drain solenoid
Some models (for example most GE dishwashers) use a drain solenoid to drain water out. Sometimes the solenoid gets stuck, preventing the water from draining out. Try to free up the solenoid. If unsuccessful, you might have to replace the pump assembly.
If the motor is stuck, it is sometimes possible to free it up by manually spinning the motor.
Replace the motor if defective.
Replace if defective (note: uncommon problem).
Here is some GE specific info and a link.....
GE dishwashers will have a sump entrance screen ( #4 ) that should be removed and checked for any gookus, see 1 or 2 screws on the cover top, which is behind the lower spray arm. Almost all ( some newer GE dishwashers have a separate drain pump and motor - but for our purpose, we will talk about the most common GE dishwashers ) GE dishwashers have a drain solenoid ( #1 ) that can fail and stop the draining. If the solenoid cannot pull in the silver plunger, the drain port will not open to allow the motor and pump assembly to drain the water out. The solenoid can be ohmed with an ohm meter for continuity, or tested to see if it is receiving 110-120 volts AC. Many GE dishwashers have a self clean filter ( #3 ) inside at the back. The draining water must pass through a plunger in the self clean filter body. This can get clogged up, or the plunger may twist and distort and not allow the draining water to get past. The filter can be removed from the inside and the plunger will twist out of the self cleaning body for testing/checking. Next obstacle for the draining water in the back flush valve ( #2 ). This valve can twist or distort and block the water flow as well. The drain port will need to be accessed to check this flapper valve, the drain port will untwist from the self clean filter body. All hoses in-between the items mentioned above and the drain hose itself all the way to the house plumbing should be checked for restrictions.
Some extra filter, draining tips and pictures....
During the wash and rinse modes of the cycle, soiled water falls down the back of the tub and into the filter area. The water comes through the filter and back into the tub. During the wash and rinse periods all ( we hope! ) the water will pass through the filter. The soil will settle into the collection chamber and is held there. When the dishwasher goes into the pump out mode the water in the sump is pumped through the collection chamber. This closes the piston valve to the inside of the tub. The pump flushes the collection chamber of all the food soil and pumps it down the drain. A check valve is located in the drain line port. This valve allows the water to flow in the drain direction only and prevents the water from coming back into the tub. The drain line check valve must close in the back flow direction or the piston valve in the collection chamber may not reopen into the tub after the pump out is complete. Water should "fall" through the filter and go back into the tub....the heavier food particles go down into the chamber and are collected.
Here is a link for you to check out...I have all this info in my data base but since it is in PDF format it does not translate well to this format...
I hope this helps...it is always useful to include the Model #...more specific instructions can then be provided
Good Luck and good day.....please rate my effort...the Fang
Posted on Mar 28, 2009
This is exactly what happened to me and I paid the repair man. Learn from me. Open dishwasher, unscrew screen along back of dishwasher. Piston assembly should be right there. Part is WD24X10018. GE will charge you $17 plus labor. Can buy it on-line for around $12. Takes about two minutes to fix.
Posted on Jul 08, 2010
Tips for a great answer:
Jan 12, 2010 | Dishwashers
Dec 24, 2009 | Whirlpool Dishwashers
Nov 09, 2009 | GE 24 in. GSD4920Z Built-in Dishwasher
Nov 04, 2009 | Kenmore 24 in. 17482 / 17484 / 17489...
Oct 21, 2009 | Kenmore Dishwashers
Oct 12, 2009 | Kenmore Dishwashers
Sep 13, 2009 | KitchenAid 24 in. KUDP01IL - Multiple...
Aug 20, 2009 | Maytag Dishwashers
Nov 18, 2008 | Kenmore 24 in. 15932 Built-in Dishwasher
Dec 08, 2006 | GE 24 in. GSD2600GBB Built-in Dishwasher
Feb 09, 2008 | GE GSD4500G Built-in Dishwasher
40 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!