True cooler made a pop sound and was a bad odor thereafter
We have a older True Cooler, that has been making a funny ZZZ sound, not really an electrical short sound, but closer to a metalic ball berring sound, it did this for a second or two every time the compressor would turn on. Then last night it made a pop sound, and there was a bad odor. Not really an electrical smell, more like cardboard smell. Needless to say we unplugged it, moved the contents out. The fans start, but when I plug it in it makes that ZZZ sound for a second or two. Then a min or two later another ZZZ sound for a second or two, on and on... like the compressor is trying to start. Not sure if this is the relay needing replacement or what. Any assistance would be great, thanks!
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Re: True cooler made a pop sound and was a bad odor...
Sounds like the compressor may be going off on overload. The start parts for the compressor may need replacement. Tell me the numbers on the compressor and I can come up with a universal replacement part! ;)
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www.fixya.com/support/p22955-true_gdm_12_refrigerator_commercial Recent True GDM-12 Refrigerator Commercial questions, problems & answers. ...Where is the temp control on the older (14 yrs or so) on GMD-12? True ..
Clearly someone used the cooler to dump gasoline that was probably old. That odor is extremely difficult to get out. First try this: Let it air out indirect sunlight, tilting the cooler so the sunlight gets to the inside, Do this for at least three days and as much as a week. After you've done that, there will likely still be some of the gasoline smell still there but it should be a lot less noticeable.
Next, get a large box or even a bag of baking soda. Make sure the drain plug is in and dump at least two cups of baking soda in the bottom of the cooler.
Add enough water to make a paste of the baking soda. The paste should be thick enough to smear and stick to the walls of the cooler. Do that...smear it on, completely covering the walls, bottom and inside of the top of the cooler.
If you run out of paste make a little more but make sure that every part of the inside of the cooler is covered with paste. Leave the paste on for a minimum of 24 hours but preferably 48 hours or more. Shut the lid to slow down drying of the paste.
After 24 hours or more, check to see if any odor remains. If it does, wait another 24 hours. After 48 hours, the baking soda will likely have done as much as it's going to do. Rinse the dried baking soda off the walls bottom and top, letting the residue collect in the water that is filling the cooler.
Add the remaining baking soda in the box or bag to the water stirring it until it has dissolved. Fill the cooler to the top with water and close the lid. Wait 24 hours then drain the cooler. If you're lucky the odor, or most of it, will be gone.
This is a slow tedious process but it can work. I've never tried it on gasoline odor but I used it forplastic pickle buckets and it's never gotten the odor completely out but it has gotten enough out to make the bucket usable. Good luck!
If I am not mistaken, the True line-up of coolers have a temp control on them that is labeled 0-9.
This particular type of temp control is a coil temp control. I measures the temperature of the coil rather than air temperature.
Always set the control to the warmest setting and move it colder by one number at a time until your product reaches and holds designed temp. Do not go by cooler air temperature as there will be a great swing in temp especially if the doors are used frequently. Always temp the product. In the case of beer, your ideal holding temp is between 35-38°.
If you set the temp control to the warmest setting and the cooler is still freezing product, you will need to have the cooler serviced be a refrigeration tech. It will most likely be a bad control but there may be underlying problems.
This is probably the thermostat stuck closed and bad. Turn the tstat all the way to left or counter clock wise. The compressor should turn off.If the compressor continues to run the tstat is stuck and bad. A good replacement tstat would be Ranco # A12-1560.
It sounds like the thermostat is "stuck closed". Try unplugging the cooler, MAKE SURE ALL POWER HAS BEEN DISCONECTED. Remove thermostat cover with thermostat on it. Carefully pull one of the wires spade connectors off the thermostat. Insulate the end of the wire you disconected with electrical tape. Now plug the cooler back in. If the compressor stays off the thermostat is the problem. Let me know if that helps. I know of a common replacement cold controll for that unit:)
If it is indeed a true vibration, it could be a number of things. I have seen bad bearings do this off and on as the cooler runs. Could be something going wrong with the blower motor. There are several things that need to be checked to properly evaluate the problem you are describing.
More than likely you need a new compressor. It sounds like it's trying to start and then trips on it's "Klixon" overload. Call a commercial refer guy (not somebodys brother in law that works on A/C, it's NOT the same!)