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The inner tub does not stay in a slow turn or locked position during agitation instead it starts to spin
slowly then it gets faster and faster until the water starts spilling out. If you manually hold the inner tub
in a stationary position it looks like it works properly.
The inner tub does not stay in a slow turn or locked position during agitation instead it starts to spin slowly then it gets faster and faster until the water starts spilling out. If you manually hold the inner tub in a stationary position it looks like it works properly.The inner tub does not stay in a slow turn or locked position during agitation instead it starts to spin slowly then it gets faster and faster until the water starts spilling out. If you manually hold the inner tub in a stationary position it looks like it works properly.
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No spin, or lite spin try these: bare in mind that many times there is no spin it can be due to a clogged water pump so check it for debris and or broken propeller.
Other items to check Using a multi meter check for continuity the door switch, which when bad may not allow agitation or spin. Bare in mind the lid switch assembly can fail either mechanically or electrically.
Check the clutch, motor coupler, brake assembly, transmission, and mode shifter or actuator. one way to check for slipping is to get under the machine after a spin cycle ( this is if u get a lil spin but not much leaving clothes still wet) mix in a spray bottle a lil water and some dish detergent, then spray it on the clutch assembly ( the metal round pc. Connected to the tranny) if it sizzles and steams up then u know its bad and slipping. Another way to check clutch if u get no spin at all? Is to take it out and use ur hand to try and turn the inner spring assembly pushing it around the inside? If its very easy, it BAD should be hard to push by hand.
Or try the hand test:
If no hammering sound has ever been heard out of this machine, one of the unofficial tests we professional appliantologists will do in the field is called the Hand Test. WARNING:This test is not sanctioned by Whirlpool Corporation; it involves bypassing safety equipment and then putting your hand on and near rotating machinery which could result in injury, dismemberment, disfigurement, disembowelment, mangling, hideous screaming, and a ****** *****. Proceed at your own risk! Have a nice day.
- put the timer on a spin cycle and open the lid- grab the inner basket with maybe 30% to 40% of your hand strength with your left hand
- turn on the machine and bypass the lid switch by depressing the lid switch with a key until the machine begins to spin
- if the clutch is engaging properly, the basket should immediately begin to spin and slip through your hand
- if it takes very little force to stop the tub from spinning, the clutch needs to be replaced.
Next check the motor coupler which engages the tub and tranny to the motor. ( if its bad u usually get no wash or spin or very little of either)
Next if belt driven check for a loose, worn or broken belt. And on some models there is no clutch but rather what is called a splutch. And a MODE shifter. These can go bad and effect the spin cycle.
On some front load models u may need to check the STATOR assembly.
The stator is essentially one half of a motor, it interacts with the tub by creating a strong electro-magnet. If the stator burns out the washer won't spin or agitate. Check the stator for continuity. This part is often misdiagnosed.
Sometimes a no spin machine can be due to a plugged waterpump hose or obstructed water pump propeller. Check these by eye and hand. And in some models check with a meter for continuity and voltage.
LID SWITCH TEST- next step is toremove the cabinetand jumper the lid switch harness (tan to gray). Put the unit in spin and watch the shiny metal clutch disc that is on top of the transmission where the shaft comes out. If the machine starts and runs in spin, check to see if the disc is spinning. If it is, then the problem isnot in the gearcase- look for trouble in theclutch,basket driveor the tub drive block
If, on the other hand, the disc is NOT spinning, check for a problem withthe motor drive coupleror one of its retainers. This washer doesn't have a belt. Instead, the motor is directly coupled to the gearcase by a drive coupler; that's why it's called a direct drive washer.
The first thing to check is the clutch. It's supposed to lock the inner tub and drive the transmission (agitator) when the motor turns in one direction, and spin the tub when the motor turns in the other direction. It's also possible the agitator drive shaft coming out of the transmission and the concentric tub drive shaft are frozen together (worst case) - this is usually caused by a bad bearing seal allowing water to leak into the shaft.
Lifting the lid during the spin cycle should disconnect power to the motor - maybe what you see is the tub continuing to spin because the transmission is acting as a flywheel. Either that, or the lid switch actuator is not working properly.
I had the same problem. You need a brake kit. it holds the drum still while in the agitate mode. the centrifical force of the water during that slow spin is causing the water to spill over the top of your drum. easy and cheap fix.
great analogy, sounds as if you have broken/stripped the tub block( its waht secures the inner tub to the outer tub) part number 389140, if you removethe agitator( a 7/16" bolt down the center of agitator) there is one more lock ring that isactually tightened down across the top of said "tub block"( usually need a specialty spanner wrench to remove, but have done it with a pipe wrench) after removing that lock nut the inner tub will release and the new tub block can be installed...
The following advice is for replacing the “Agitator Dogs” on Kenmore and Whirlpool TOP LOADER style washing machines. This simple repair can save you a fortune in repair costs as the replacement parts are very inexpensive at a cost of less than $10. The replacement kit part number is 80040. You can order on line at various appliance parts websites, or use this part number and go to your nearest appliance parts retailer.
What are “Agitator Dogs”? These are small plastic pieces (usually 4) that are located under the agitator center cap that grip the agitator and turn it during the wash cycle. They can (and do) wear out dependent upon the use of the washer. If you are in the habit of doing large load sizes frequently, or wash large items such blankets or afghans, this can wear the teeth off and reduce the life of the agitator dogs.
SYMPTOMS REQURING REPLACEMENT: The agitator fails to turn during the wash cycle, or will not turn with a heavy load. The timer will run normally through all cycles, and you will be able to hear the gearcase (transmission) engage and run. The washer will also drain normally. The only indication that something is wrong will be the agitator slipping or not turning at all. The result will be clothes that do not wash properly and will sit on the bottom of the wash tub.
To replace the Agitator Dogs, follow these steps:
1.Remove the agitator center cap by either pulling straight up or gently placing a flat blade screwdriver into a slot located in the cap. 2.If the agitator is equipped with an inner cap with a handle, remove this as well by pulling straight up. 3.Remove the center bolt of the agitator. You will have either a 7/16” hex bolt or a recessed square plastic nut. If you have the square recessed type, use a 3/8” to ½” ratchet adapter to remove. 4.Remove the agitator by grasping the bottom flange and carefully pulling straight up. Try to keep all the parts assembled while doing this, so do not pull too hard. This will make this repair much easier. 5.Place your hand over the top of the agitator and separate the upper portion of the agitator from the lower portion and turn the top half over in your hand. The agitator dog assembly will come out in your hand. 6.With the agitator dog assembly in your hand, lay the rest of the agitator aside. Pay careful attention to how the dogs are installed. Remove the worn dogs and reinstall new ones. It’s that simple. 7.With all the dogs replaced and the assembly still in your hand, place the upper part of the agitator over the top of it, upside down, ensuring the inner assembly tabs align correctly. 8.Now keep your hand over the agitator top to hold all the pieces together and turn the entire assembly over (upright position). 9.Carefully align and reinsert the upper portion of the agitator to the lower portion. Again, making sure the two pieces align correctly. 10.Place the entire agitator assembly back on the gearcase shaft and reinstall center nut. NOTE: DO NOT over tighten the nut, or the agitator will not spin correctly. Just make the nut snug. Reinstall center cap and inner cap (if equipped).
These instructions should give you the basics on how to perform this repair. Since there are various agitator types in use by Whirlpool and Kenmore, assembly can vary.
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yea youl need to replace the tub alright, cgances are the bolts holding the inner tub to the transmission shaft have also broken off, which is why the inner tub spun off kilter and rubbed a hole in the outer tub,. the bolts (2 of them ) woulds have benn locking the inner basket to the tranny shaft, visible after removing the agitator
The inner tub on some machines does rotate very slowly while filling to assist with the even distibution of the load. If the agitator is turning back & forth while in fill mode, you could have a timer or transmission problem. You need a tech.
The inner tub does not stay in a slow turn or locked position during agitation instead it starts to spin
slowly then it gets faster and faster until the water starts spilling out. If you manually hold the inner tub
in a stationary position it looks like it works properly.
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