Question about KitchenAid KBMC140HSS Convection/Microwave Oven

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Kitchenaid kcms185jss2 close the door and it starts.

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  • Mickey Willey
    Mickey Willey Nov 22, 2008

    tried the breaker to reset and it didn't work. How do I remove the keypad if this is the problem?

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  • KitchenAid Master
  • 8,820 Answers

First we should determine if it's actually cooking when you just close the door, or if it's only the light and fan running.

You can test it by putting in a cup of water and closing the door for 30-60 seconds, then checking to see if the water is warmer.

If it is actually cooking, then it's your control panel that needs to be repaired.

We regularly repair these control units for customers nationwide by mail for $39.95 postpaid in about a week with a one-year guarantee.

If it is not cooking, then you have a problem with the lower door switch (primary interlock switch) or its mount.

That's a pretty easy DIY fix. At our Web site, we have a video available showing how to remove a typical over the range control panel assembly in under 5 minutes.

Then you can see this file: http://www.microwavedisplay.com/doorsw.txt

There should also be a "mini-manual" (tech sheet) hidden inside the unit behind the control panel or hidden on the left side behind the grille, which is very helpful when troubleshooting, testing, and locating components.

You can usually find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number here.

Feel free to contact me directly (and please remind me of your full model number) for more information & help.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

William E. Miller
prototech@usa.net
http://www.microwavedisplay.com

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Posted on Nov 24, 2008

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Very good.

You may have to separate the door panels (as shown in the attached photo) and then you'll see the previously hidden screws you need to remove to get at the parts that need to be replaced.

Or you can watch a YouTube video (not a video I made) that demonstrates how it's done.

You can usually find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number here.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.


cd56778.jpg

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Since the noise is louder, I would suspect a shorted high voltage rectifier diode or failed magnetron.

That model may have a 5-year warranty on the magnetron.

Your owner's manual and warranty guide can be downloaded here, and on that same page you'll find Customer Service contact info.

Generally, the most common causes of a failure to heat are:

- bad door switches or door switch mounts
- loose connection at the magnetron
- problem or loose connection on the control unit circuit board
- bad magnetron or other high voltage part (such as a shorted diode)

If you or someone you know decide to look into it, we have critical safety information, info on door switch diagnosis and replacement, and disassembly information at our site, and our link is at our listing here on FixYa: http://tinyurl.com/yzjozk

You can usually find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number here: http://tinyurl.com/gv383

We're happy to help and we appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

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This is usually an indication of a bad door interlock. Take resistance readings with the power turned off on the primary and secondary interlocks. You will need to remove the control panel to access them. There should be a wiring diagram somewhere inside the control panel to assist you in determining if the interlock is normally OPEN, or normally CLOSED. As you open and close the door the interlock should change states. Additionally, double all your connectors to make sure they are plugged in correctly. I had a similar problem once and it turned out to be a loose connection on one of the interlocks. I hope this helps you.

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