Question about Carrier XHB123D X/Y Series Heat/Cool Air Conditioner

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Furnace Went Out! HELP PLEASE!!!!

I have a Carrier Crusader Gas furnace that just went out. Model #58dhc055-EC. I woke up this morning and it was 50 degrees. When I turn the furnace onto Auto by the thermostrat, the furnace turns on. The induced draft motor starts and doesn't ever stop running. I also notice that the hot surface ignitor is not heating up, but it doesn't look bad.

I also left the door to the furnace room closed overnight. So, the furnace was not getting any air circulation. It was completely closed in without any air flow.

I don't know if that would cause this problem or not but I am pretty desperate for help.

Any troubleshooting ideas would be fantastic!

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  • 2 more comments 
  • aprildugan Nov 22, 2008

    I cleaned out the unit with the shop vac and now at least it blows cold air for about 2 minutes before it stops blowing.

    There is no voltage going to the hot surface ignitor.

  • aprildugan Nov 22, 2008

    Also, I could not find a "brain" on the furnace. There wasn't anything with LED lights.

  • aprildugan Nov 23, 2008

    Well I thought maybe in a long shot that my furnace would miraculously fix itself overnight and turned it on today...Well, it is not working. And now it is again not blowing even cold air.

    I sent some pictures and I got a close up of the circuit board.

    Again I really appreciate you taking the time and making comments.

  • aprildugan Nov 24, 2008

    Well, I ran the self test and everything runs fine during the test. Even the hot surface ignitor works. The self test does not test the gas valve. But it is still the same old story. Still not working.

    I am calling around to different service people right now.

    Thanks for your help!



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Sounds like the Hot Surface Ignitor is bad. When you replace it do not touch the surface of Ignitor very important to keep human oil off it. The part is only about 25 bucks. Also have you looked in the blower compartment for the circuit board usually on the squirrel cage. The check the Ignitor for resistance.

Posted on Nov 23, 2008

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The door closed or open should have no effect. The draft motor runs, no power to the glow plug or it is open,

The first place to look is at the furnace brain, a box located somewhere in the unit connecting to the gas valve, look at this brain [controller] and there should be a light of series of lights.

On the box itself there should be a matrix of codes such as: green light flashing= bad glow plug, or red, bad controller box, do you have anything like this?

Most have some sort of led light that narrows down the problem.

If not at least do these things:

make sure the power is off, and that the blower motor spins by hand freely.

next if you have a volt ohm meter, you can test the plug to see if there is a circuit, if the glow plug is open, that is one problem,

If you have a volt meter you can measure the leads at the plug to see if voltage is there or not.

There are so many checks and switches that will operate dependent on the operation of something else.

Unplug the furnace and keep the power off the brain, if so equipped for several minutes, see if it resets.

If it does great, if not tell me if there is a brain box and what the lights are, and what the matrix of light codes say, and we can go from there.

You can also measure for voltage from the thermostat to the furnace and make sure it is getting a signal on all wires, a thermostat wire could have come loose.

very difficult to troubleshoot a furnace when one is in front of it, let along without seeing it.

If you find no box, let me know, and let me know from these checks above if anything changes, or gives you more info to pass on to me.

Step at a time we can find this, a volt ohm meter will be really helpful.


Posted on Nov 22, 2008

  • 1 more comment 
  • William Babbitt
    William Babbitt Nov 23, 2008

    No voltage to the glow plug? Where does the wiring for the glow plug originate? that is generally the brain, something has to tell the igniter to go, and quit, so there may be no brain box, but there is some kind of control, that tells the furnace to light the plug, gas is coming.

    See what I mean?

    Interesting you said that blowing it out helped. Can you get me shot [photo] of the guts of this thing so I can take a look at the wiring and see if I can tell you where to go next/

    The fact you blew out the unit and changed something means something, you cleared debris out of a contact or something.

    some "brain" boxes have no leds, most do, but we need to find where the voltage should come from and why it is not allowing the voltage to come on, a relay, a line voltage thermostat, something has to tell it to come on, what is the unit that tells it to come on?

    Where those wires from the ignitor go is most likely where you will find your problem.

    Send me a photo and I may be able to help you further.

  • William Babbitt
    William Babbitt Nov 23, 2008

    I went to carrier and found this about the model you have

    The wiring diagram is obsolete, so I am counting on you to get me a photo, or send me a diagram if you have one, as I cannot get one from Carrier

  • William Babbitt
    William Babbitt Nov 25, 2008

    You found this self test button, something you had not tried before?

    During the self test, everything worked, but the gas valve?

    So it came on during self test, the hot surface lit up, the blower fired up, but no gas valve check.

    You have tightened the connections to the gas valve, and have moved the valve switch back and forth from off to on?

    If not turn the valve off and on a couple times, in case it was not making contact.

    Now two really stupid sounding attempts, first is the feed valve to the gas valve open? It should be an inline valve, with it pointing down the line open and 90 degrees away for closed, it is open?

    If not well you know, turn it on.

    There could be a purge circuit in this machine, again no print, carried declares it obsolete.

    I have left my valve closed, so if you did, it is no huge mistake, but make sure.

    Next and this sounds crude, but take a small hammer SMALL and wrap a rag around the head.

    GENTLY strike the side of the gas valve once you are sure that the gas valve feeding it is open, strike it GENTLY tap tap tap, unplug the unit turn on everything, test again, turn off, turn on and try again.

    past that unless I am there, we are not going to get any closer, it is some kind of interlock or bad valve or a safety issue and time to do what you said, get a good tech over there, and if you have problems with him or her, let me know,

    Let me know our last desperation set of attempts too, and then if someone comes and gets it, please let me know so I can help the next person.

    These things are so more complex than the old thermocouple and pilot, if one device says don't go it don't go.

    Keep in touch and if the tech makes no sense or wants a huge amount or something that makes no common sense, let me know, don't be handing out money to techs unless the answer makes perfect sense.

    Yes they are complex but say no to anything that is some long drawn out, you need these 15 components and 20 hours of labor, I know it is not that, it is in one of the components and if I COULD get to it, it would be much easier to isolate.

    You did great, but after the last tap tap tap and check, we need help on site, but keep me in the loop?




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