The right side front passenger lower control bolt is slipping how to fix the loose bolt on 1997 cherovlet calaiver

Lift and support front end on suitable jack stands preferably on frame. Remove right front cv axle, stub shaft, and seal. You will need to pull the right front brake caliper assembly loose and place to the side. Then remove bolts from shock and upper control arm and hub nut to do this. Next, remove axle lock actuator on passenger side of front axle. Place a drain pan underneath front diff cover and remove cover and drain axle. In the center of differential there will be an 8 mm head bolt holding spider gear cross-shaft. Remove bolt and cross-shaft only! Push inner axle in until clip clears inside of passenger spider gear. Set clip aside and push/pull axle shaft straight out to passenger side.

The car has 4 air bags. Drivers side front, passenger side front, and then each seat should have an airbag facing the pillars. For the passenger airbag: disconnect the battery always when messing with the dash. Remove the lower trim panel that extends from the shift column all the way to the end of the dash (the one that is around the Climate control unit). Passenger airbag is 2 bolts right under the trim panel and 2 bolts accessed through the glove compartment. Remove the four 7mm bolts and disconnect the electrical coupling before removing.

1. Remove the hub cap and bolt the wheel back in.
2. Punch out the spindle nut lock and loosen the spindle nut.
3. Raise and support the vehicle and block the rear tires.
4. Remove the wheel.
5. Drain the transmission.
6. Remove the all the damper fork nuts and all the brake hose nuts on the damper fork and on the shock absorber.
7. Remove the damper fork.
8. Remove the driver side and passenger side front suspension flange nut inside the engine bay and slide the upper arm out
9. Turn the steering wheel all the way to the passenger side and remove the passenger drive shaft spline from the hub.
10. Separate the inner driveshaft from the transmission with a large screw driver (or crow bar).
11. Remove the passenger side drive shaft. Do not pull.
12. Remove the front radius rod.

Under the car.

1. Remove the center beam.
2. Remove the torque converter cover, the control cable holder and remove shift control cable.
3. Remove the drive plate bolts and four transmission housing bolts.

Inside the engine bay.

1. Place a transmission jack or several small jacks under the transmission.
2. Disconnect all the electrical connectors.
3. Remove the speed sensor gear shaft but leave the hoses on.
4. Remove the distributor and mark the distributor shaft with a razor or a diamond etcher, usually on the head side or both.
5. Remove the throttle control lever cable.
6. Remove the transmission cooler hoses mounting bolts and their 4 washers.
7. Remove the starter.
8. Remove the all the transmission housing bolts.
9. If the transmission won't come out remove a horizontal side engine mounting bolt and raise oil pan (with a wooden block between the oil pan and jack) until the transmission clears.
10. Lower the transmission into the transmission jack.
11. With the driver side front suspension flange out of the way, turn the steering towards the right then remove the driver side inner drive shaft with a large flathead screw driver.
12. Lower the low profile transmission jack and slide the transmission and the jack from under the car. Don't loose the two dowel pins.
13. Block all transmission fluid ports from leakage and dust and dirt.
14. If repairs are being done repair the transmission in a dust, sand free environment.
    

on the 1997 Taurus DOHC v6 the thermostat is conveniently located at the front passenger side of the engine, just up over top of the the mud guard. There's about a dozen screws (bolt heads) to take off, slip out the mud guard and there's the lower radiator hose and the thermostat housing! The thermostat is held in by a reusable O ring and is pretty well engineered for being in such a surprising location.

worn CV joints "click," but only upon turning.
worn bearings "grind," with a faint metal-on-metal sound.
So, squeaking in the front end is unlikely to be a CV joint or a bearing.
Squeak could be almost any front suspension component, but here's the reason to stop
guessing what it is and jack up the car, remove the two front tires and inspect the
front suspension: it could be a bolt/nut
that is loosening - and by catching it, and tightening it, you could save yourself the cost of
replacing the missing hardware. Also, be aware that an inspecting mechanic (if your state or
county requires a safety inspection (like Pennsylvania)) will inspect all components of your car's
front suspension as a routine component of your car's safety inspection.
Also:

1-----Inspect----- Coil Spring----- Broken or Weak Coil Springs.
2-----Inspect----- Sway Bar Bushing----- Worn, Damaged, or Faulty Stabilizer Bar Bushings.
3-----Inspect----- Steering Stabilizer Bracket----- Loose or Broken Steering Stabilizer Bracket.
4-----Inspect-----lower ball joints-----Loose bolt/rubber bushing to lower control arm.
5-----Inspect-----Upper Ball Joints-----Loose bolt/missing rubber bushing.
6-----Inspect-----Connecting Rods-----(these are the rods that connect the lower control arm to the
front of the frame) Check for loose nut (on the frame side), or loose bolts (on the control arm side).

1998 Ford Truck Expedition 4WD 5.4L EFI 8cyl

PCM Ford's Location:
* Ranger - behind instrument panel (cowl), center to both driver and passenger sides.
* Explorer/Mountaineer - behind instrument panel (cowl), (access from engine compartment dash panel) on passenger side to center of vehicle.
* All other F-Series, Expedition/Navigator - lower dash panel on passenger side.
* Excursion - lower dash panel on driver side.

The PCM is behind the glove box and has a big harness connector in the firewall that you access from the engine compartment.

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION



Fig. 1 The calibration number will be needed to order such parts as a replacement PCM, various sensors, and almost any emission control component. Typically this number is attached to a label found on the driver's door or the door pillar


1997-00 F-150, F-250, Expedition and Navigator



Fig. 2 Loosen the connector retaining bolt and remove the PCM connector



Fig. 3 Remove the passenger side front door scuff plate



Fig. 4 Remove the passenger side kick panel



Fig. 5 Remove the PCM bracket clip and remove the PCM

1. Remove the battery and the battery tray.
2. Loosen the connector retaining bolt and remove the PCM connector.
3. Remove the passenger side front door scuff plate.
4. Remove the passenger side kick panel.
5. Remove the PCM bracket clip.
6. Remove the PCM.
   

To install:

1. Installation is the reverse of removal.
2. Tighten the PCM connector retaining bolt to 36-44 inch lbs. (4-5 Nm).

Hope helps.

looks as though the nut that holds it may have come loose try tightening it , if it still slips remove it to see if the wiper arm is stripped. if it is ok u should see gear like teeth in the hole.

there should be no reason for side mirrors to be loose unless one hit something to make it come loose, rear-ly does that bolt will ever come lose itself. pop the cover off on passenger side with screw driver, do it gentle-ly it held on by plastic tab, then you will see the bolts holding on to the mirror, tight the bolt if its not broken. if need replacing, get one from the junk yard.

There are 3 small bolts across the top where the front defrost grill is. 2 large bolts directly under the headlight switch and another big bolt lower right hand corner of the glovebox area.

It is a very involved process of removing and replacing. You will have to remove all of the belts, the front timing belt covers, (upper and lower). You will also have to remove the front bracket that is mounted to the front of the block, which serves as the mount for the power steering pump, the alternator and the A/C compressor.You will also have to remove the crankshaft pulley. You cannot remove the plastic lower timing belt cover unless you remove all of these things first. The tensioner is located underneath the lower cover along side the timing belt on the passenger side. It has two bolts that hold it in place. You will have to remove these two bolts.

The crankshaft pulling bolt is a right handed thread and loosens by turning counter clockwise. The pulley will slip off but is a very tight fit. Do not try to turn it while removing it as there is a small pin that keeps it aligned to one position. Use a small ball pine hammer to tap it loose.

It is also a good idea to remove the electric cooling fan shroud that is mounted to the inside side of the radiator and the radiator hoses to give yourself more room to work. It has only two bolts at the top holding it in place. And then slips into two retaining clips at the bottom. Lifting it will pull it out of these retaining clips.

When you remove the small bypass hose located at the top of the radiator , to the passenger side, be careful not to break off the small nipple protruding out of the radiator tank. It is plastic and will break easily if you try to pull the rubber bypass hose from it. This will have to be taken to a radiator shop to have repaired if you accidentally break this off. Be sure to carefully loosen the hose from this nipple before trying to pull it off.

And one more thing, if you go to that much trouble to replace the tensioner, it is a good idea to go ahead and replace the timing belt as well. It is a maintenance item and you will have to go through the same process to replace it as well. Do it once and do it right.

I hope this helps.