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How do you know you are at 40 WATTS? This takes electronic test equipment to measure.
Tests to run. Observe the speaker cone with power off. Now turn it on... did it displace and stay there? If so you have a failure of the amplifier itself. Next, If you can place finger on the cone, move it gently in and out feeling for any roughness. If you feel roughness, the voice coil is fried and you be buying new speaker. A lot of the Ultra bass Behringer's use LM3886 power amp chips... sometimes in parallel, and a failure of one could cause this.
The limiter probably delayed the eventual damage. Nothing prevents all damage absolutely.
Generally speaking, an amp protects itself from heat, shorts, overloads and operator exuberance by refusing to turn on or stay on.
Overloads can be from excessive periods of high output or marginally low impedance loading by the speakers; and shorts would be wiring issues or a speaker blowing up.
You should be able to feel if it's hot. WHY is it overheating? Make sure it has sufficient ventilation on all sides and that vent holes are not blocked by dust balls. Ensure the fan (if equipped) is running as designed (some only operate on demand). Clean dust and debris from it.
If the amp comes back on after cooling, you're lucky. They only have so many self-protection cycles in their lives so continuously resetting or cycling their power without addressing the cause can do more harm than good.
If it protects immediately on a cool power up you should disconnect the speaker connections and try it 'naked'. If it comes up then diagnose which lead(s) are shorted. If it does not come up the problem is internal and should be left to an experienced and competent hands-on tech for forensics and further action.
Check for loose speaker connections at the speaker as a root cause for intermittent shutdown.
It sounds like one side of the power amp has shorted. May be hazardous to the speaker so best take it to a shop for repair. If speaker stills sounds OK, probably the clip detector transistors have failed.
If you get absolutely no sound, not even a pop when changing the standby switch, this probably means the rectifier OR the switch has failed. The red light just means power is getting to the power transformer... probably fuse is OK.
i have a pyle pro 1000 watt max 2 channel mono and 2 channel stereo and when i get that thing loud the little red light cums on basically what i mean is that the amp on channel one is cooked i myself i wouldn't even use it y cause more damage
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