Defrost Cycle Problems with Weatherking Heat Pump Model 10PJA4201
Thanks for your answer, that's what my operators booklet also said, however I don't think that my board was wired up correctly by my installer who is already out of business, when i first called for a service call he said that it wasn't cold enough for it to work, after another call when it was colder, he was ugly about me calling again, when he came I was watching, I think all he did was short out the test pins which made the unit go into a defrost cycle for a moment and right back out, our winters haven't been very bad, so being almost 70 at the time I've just lived with the problem. I looked at the board today it has 13 different wires attatched, where might i get a wireing diagram so i can be sure if all wires are properly hooked up, my book said that by changing a wire it would change the coil temp, from 50, 60 ,70 or 80 degrees, so if i can down load a diagram maybe i can fix it with out buying a new high priced one. The nos. on the board are Rheem 47-21517-14 0128-05
THANKS for your responce
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Take a look at this YouTube page that explains with good videos what are some of the common problems with heat pump noise. The one that seems dominant is the defrost cycle a heat pump goes thru when it melts ice off the evaporative coils. In defrost cycle, The compressor runs but the cooling fan does not, so you will hear a loud buzzing sound and the unit sounds like it is stalled...because only the compressor is running to generate heat to melt coil ice.
Usually wen the led lights are blinking it means there is a problem. If you look on the door or the cover there should be a code that tells you what the blinking represents.
Example - one blink per second - compressor, two blinks - fan motor, etc. The other thing you can do is look up the model number on line for the installation manual and it should have all the info you need.
Defrost cycle is to allow frosy or ice to melt down and not restrict the output air. The thermostat is set too low and in high humidity ice forms quickly restricting the air flow. tur up the thermostat and let the room cool gradually.
My question may seem a little ignorant but How do you know your heat pump starts in defrost? You can't tell by "feel". You have to measure heat with a thermometer. If its because it "feels cold" your body temp is normally 98.6'f if
your heat pump is in cold air outside (say below 40 or 45'f) and its
putting out 85 to 98'f air inside your home is gaining even if it feels
cold to you. Hearing the reversing valve kick in or out? Just because you hear this doesn't mean its in defrost, it may normally start this way.
Now if its running for a long time? That's subject to your interpretation of long time. It could be normal too especially if the air outside is getting colder and your house is needing more heat to keep it comfortable for you. The longer the heat pump runs means the more electric it is saving you.
The one thing that makes me believe this is all normal is the fact you say the elements kick on and warm up the home before it shuts off. So heres one way to kind of tell where your at: 1 Are the filters cean? 2 When the weather warms up does the Heat pump run as long? 3 Does *** run longer as the night gets colder? 4 Does it defrost at times and you see steam coming off the out door part and the out door fan stop? 5 does it make a swishing noise just before it defrosts and maybe after it defrost? 6 does it make ice build up around the base if its been running for a few days? 7 does the air comming out the ducts test at least 5 to 8'f warmer or more, than the room temperature?
If all of these are yes then most likely you have a normal operation going on.
If the elements are coming on that usually means the heat pump cant handle the load by itself. Remember this : It uses less electricity to run the fan motors and the compressor < 18 amps in cold weather. Typically with everything clean heating output on a 5 ton somewhere around 50,000BTUH [a 3 ton will put out around 28,000 btuh and only pull about 12 amps] you would have the indoor fan motor running any way with either of the heating systems so it isnt needed to count for effiency. 1 heating element 5KW at 240V about 20.83 Amps and it puts out only around 17,000 Btuh. But the heating element glowes red hot and consentrates heat in a shorter time thus it "feels" warmer, which it is but its not cheaper.
If this help\ed you understand your heat pump operation and you feel like it is normal now please rate me as high as you can. If you feel you you may still ahve a problem please post it and the answers to the questions above as to narrow your scope of what to look for. Thanks for using fixya and good luck.