Re: the lens is loked I think with wideangle or macro...
This error is caused by a faulty lens motor, contaminated transmission, or mechanical damage from dropping. Unfortunately, there is no easy fix for this and it requires service from Canon or other repair facility.
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If your A360 only extends the lens partway when you turn the camera on in picture mode, there is an easy solution that requires no technical knowledge whatsoever. Mine exhibits this behavior most of the time, and I've experimented it with it and found that these two things help:
1. Hold the power button down the entire time the lens is extending. For whatever reason, this seems to help.
2. If your lens extends only partway (if this is the case the screen and all pictures you take should be blurry), simply hit the macro mode button (the little flower to the left of the zoom) twice. This works because when you go into macro mode, the camera automatically brings the lens to its lowest zoom, which is meant to bring the lens back from a high zoom, but also works in reverse. You may have to repeat this procedure a couple times each time you start the camera (you'll know it's fixed when you no longer hear the motor whine when you press the button).
One last tip: if you've had this problem before and you start up your camera and it seems fine, use trick number 2 anyways, just to double check that the lens is indeed in the correct position. I've made the mistake of assuming, based on the fact that the picture on the screen looked sharp, that the lens was fully extended. When you look at your pictures, you may find that all of them (even those taken with a tripod!) may be blurry.
Some of the Rokinon (and other ) zoom lenses could only go into MACRO at certain focal lengths- the lens you have "zooms" from 80 to 200 focal length,but is that done by "sliding" a ring forward and back on the lens, or by twisting a different ring that the one that focuses?
First make sure the lens is clean. Now set the dial to P mode. Hold down the flower button for a few seconds and the camera will go into "super macro" mode - keep watching the screen or the viewfinder until this happens. You might also feel the zoom resetting itself. You can now go right up to the subject, literally almost touching it - be careful not to damage the lens by hitting the subject!
I think in normal macro mode 4" is too close.
With an SLR you only get true macro focussing on a lens that has proper macro focussing abilities. Unfortunately in the photogaraphy world, there are a huge number of lenses which claim to have macro ability but are stretching the term far too much.
Strictly speaking, macro means that the lens is capable of producing images on the sensor which are the same size as the actual subject or even bigger, at life size this is described as 1:1 macro. Your Tamron lens is only capable of a maximum 1:3.7 "macro", and that's only at the 200mm zoom setting with the subject no closer than 45cm from the lens. By SLR zoom lens standards, that's actually pretty good, but if you want to go closer and get greater magnification you need to either use a supplementary close-up filter lens or for better optical quality use a set of extension rings. The trade off with close up filter lenses is poor image quality and usually plenty of colour fringing and with extension rings is that if you're using a 2x magnification at 200mm, your f5-ish maximum aperture at 200mm becomes a very dark f10.
The only way to get good macro results is to either use a proper (=expensive) macro lens and excellent lighting, or use extension rings plus a good ring flash unit. However you can improve your macro by investing in a more capable zoom lens with a closer minimum focus distance and a better aperture at the telephoto end of the range. This can be expensive, or you can pick up some very cheap 35mm film SLR lenses. Using an adapter will never allow you to achieve infinity focus on a Canon digital SLR but you can get a close focussing 200mm f3.8 very cheaply. The crop factor of your smaller sensor means it will have the same angle of view as a 310mm lens but the aperture will remain at f3.8. As Canon digital SLR's have the deepest body register (lens to sensor distance) of the current systems then you'll also have the effect of using it on an extension ring. The downside is that you'll have to use the lens in a totally manual mode as no information will be communicated to your camera body. By mounting the lens back to front using a reversing ring you can achieve some really stunning macro magnifications but then you need a tripod, powerful flash and absolutely no wind... There was also a Makinon 80-200mm zoom which sells for next to nothing on auction websites, but it had a macro collar which allowed it to achieve around half size macro (1:2).
Alternatively, if the Fuji still works and does the job just keep it in your camera bag ready for those types of shots. overall, that seems the easiest and best solution unless you really want to get heavily into macro shooting.
I hope that I've helped you, please ask more if there's anything unclear. I've tried to keep a very complicated subject as simple as possible. Please also take a moment to rate my answer.
I will try to help you, but please understand that my experience is with Nikon film cameras. Assuming that the D60 works in a manner similar to a Nikon 35 mm body and that Sigma macro lens work like Nikon macro lens, you should be able to determine the usable subject to lens distance by experimentation. First, make sure the lens is in the macro mode. To do this you must set the auto-focus mode control to the manual focus mode (see your manual). On Nikon lenses, you must first set the focus ring to infinity, then move slider switch, which has two positions marked; "normal" and "macro., to the macro position. You should now be able to rotate the focus ring to the macro range. Use the zoom ring to zoom in and out and focus with the focus ring. The the range over which the lens to subject to lens distance will yield an in focus image will be rather limited and in the range of an inch or so to 6 or 8 inches.
From my experience, many zoom lenses that have a macro feature simply kicks into macro mode when the lens is in fully zoomed position. Remember, macro is used to take pictures of something (usually like a flower, insect, etc.) and to magnify it several or many times larger than it really it is. And as a result the subject is huge and sharply focused with a very blurry background. Another thing to keep in mind is that there is usually a focusing limit for the lens in terms of how close one can focus a subject in MACRO zoom mode. In other words, you (the lens) may have to be at least a foot or more away from the subject in order to automatically focus sharply. On this note, if you have manual focusing capability, you should be able to take pictures in macro zoom mode from even shorter distance from the subject, resulting in more larger than life pictures!
I think it might be a lens issue. make sure you change the macro option. the macro must be activated if you are taking a picture of something which is close to the camera. if it's not activated, the picture will not be focused. The same will happen if the item is far and the macro is ON.